南美洲,  旅行,  秘鲁

Paracas, Huacachina, Nazca

7 月 16, 2021 /

前几天利马的当地朋友说他们这儿就是一沙漠，我当时还挺莫名其妙的，以为他只是打个比方，因为这儿很少下雨，但后来才知道利马真是在沙漠里，它是继埃及开罗之后全世界第二大的沙漠城市。南美秘鲁、智利的沙漠带是全世界最干旱的地区，这里有些地方上百年都不下雨。提到秘鲁，很少有人会跟沙漠联系上吧？靠近海洋怎么还会形成大沙漠呢？中学地理全忘光了，上网查，是因为“在副热带高气带下沉气流、离岸风和秘鲁寒流综合作用下，加上安第斯山脉的阻隔，亚马逊丛林的湿气无法向这里吹来，让这一块区域成为了大沙漠。简单说这一块地方形成沙漠就是因为西边靠海，但季风不向这里吹；东边又因为大山脉的阻挡，湿气也无法过来。最终两面都没有雨水的供应，只能长时间的干旱，形成荒漠沙漠。”

因为利马是个现代化的大城市，我在这里完全体会不到在沙漠里。昨天一路坐大巴到Paracas才真体会到秘鲁是个大沙漠，一路上海洋和沙漠同时映入眼帘。中午吃了饭之后旅店老板娘推荐我一路走到沙滩的尽头，去看火烈鸟。在加拉帕戈斯群岛也有几个观看火烈鸟的小湖，但只见着了三四只而已。我迎着大风沙走了45分钟，最后终于看到火烈鸟了，而且还不是几只而已，有上百只呢，很壮观。

昨晚青旅认识了一个阿根廷小姑娘，因为阿根廷疫情又严重了，她上周飞回去的航班最后一刻取消了，又要等一周。看来这儿因为疫情人少取消大巴航班是常有的事儿。厄瓜多尔的朋友说我前脚刚走，他们那儿疫情又严重了，又要实行晚间宵禁了，还好没被我赶上。而秘鲁这边正好前几个礼拜取消宵禁了，希望不要又严重了。

今天去Paracas National Reserve，可以租自行车、报团坐巴士或者租沙丘越野车。从来没开过沙丘越野车，决定尝试一下。导游骑着小摩托车，只有我跟另一个秘鲁姑娘一人开一辆紧随其后。开起来风很大，还好戴着口罩和墨镜，不然得刮一脸沙。中途开一段路很泥泞，前车轱辘上的泥巴四处飞溅，全跑我衣服裤子上了，还好不是很湿，干了就弹下去了。荒漠里海边的红沙滩还是挺少见的，红色是因附近一种原始的岩石里含有固化的岩浆，海浪带着这些岩石冲击在岸边，长期下来形成了红沙滩，是不可再生资源。

下午坐车去离Paracas一个半小时的Huacachina，大部分乘客都在旁边的城市Ica下车了，长途车上就剩我一人了，司机问我订没订滑沙的票，没订的话他直接带我去他朋友开的旅行社去。下了车问了老板娘价格，比之前问的还便宜，时间正合适能赶上看日落，把大双肩背包放他们旅行社就跟着导游进沙丘了。

来之前知道这儿是秘鲁的一块儿小绿洲，一进去感觉瞬间穿越回敦煌的鸣沙山和月牙泉，这个小绿洲比月牙泉大些，之后发现整个沙丘的规模也无比大，要坐大的沙丘越野车才能欣赏到这儿的全景。相比之下上午我开的那个简直就是婴儿版的。坐大越野车要坐就坐最前排，旁边是导游和司机。大家刚坐稳，司机就马力十足地开出去了，我还正在惊叹荒漠的壮美呢，这车就突然变成个过山车，各种大上下坡、斜着有角度地开，弄的一车人此起彼伏的尖叫声不断，格外带劲儿。

开了好一阵儿终于在一个大高坡上停住了，导游从车后拿出滑沙板并示范。自从两年多前在新西兰北岛滑沙时不小心把小脚趾弄骨裂了，瘸了半年之后，这次滑沙还是有点儿后怕的。这次干脆全副武装，不脱鞋袜、穿着长裤长袖戴着口罩墨镜一起，而且这次滑沙板防护比较好，前面还有两个用手可以握住的带子。我等同车的其他游客滑下去，还有个小男孩是趴他爸后背上滑下去的。我们都先滑了个小坡儿，又滑了个大长坡儿。我滑大长坡儿的时候滑得太嗨了，超过下面已经停下来的人很远了才想起来要用脚减速，不然估计能一直滑下去。这儿比较好的是滑下了大坡儿我们就不用自己扛着板子爬回去了，因为越野车会直接开下来接上我们，不然不知道爬回去要爬哪辈子去了。感觉在这儿大家都像个孩子一样，看别人滑下去听别人尖叫，自己也都毫无顾忌地一起大笑，超级开心。

从这儿出来坐个小出租去旁边城市Ica，司机小哥是个委内瑞拉人，这次在厄瓜多尔和秘鲁已经遇到了很多委内瑞拉开出租的司机了。他对中国还很好奇，问了我一堆问题。他说他全家都还在委内瑞拉，他四年前一个人来秘鲁打工，他说在这儿可以多赚点儿钱寄回家去。他15岁就有孩子了，现在他儿子7岁，还质疑我为啥还没孩子，我说有孩子我就不能一个人出来旅游啦！到了长途车站买去下一站的车票，卖票小妹接过我护照特别激动地问你是中国人啊？然后叽哩哇啦地说了一堆什么Victoria从中国来的一大群人啥的，我着急也没太听懂，还得去吃个晚饭才能赶上这趟车，走的时候小妹对我态度可好了。

只有半个小时吃晚饭，看见马路对面有个很大的Chifa秘鲁中餐馆，心想秘鲁这么多早期中国移民，流行的chifa已经成为秘鲁国菜之一了，到处可见，免不了去尝尝吧！点了套餐：鸡汤面+chaufa炒饭+ kam lu wantán炸大皮儿馄饨。鸡汤面里竟然还有几块儿猪肝儿吃，开心。别的吃下去第一口感觉像酸甜的菠萝古老肉，但是用罗望子酱做的红色的酱汁，里面有菠萝、小叉烧肉、小鸡块儿，青椒、青豆、小葱。心想馄饨在哪儿呢？这不就是个炸排叉儿嘛，其实馄饨皮儿是主角儿，包的肉就一丁点儿。自从厄瓜多尔就到处可见chifa当地中餐馆，但光看菜单就没啥食欲，感觉很像美国的Panda Express，所以完全没啥期待，但今晚不知是我滑沙消耗体力饿的，还是这是真好吃，这顿chifa吃得还挺开心的。

这几天还喝了常见饮料chicha morada(图9-1)，这是源于安第斯地区用晒干了的紫色的玉米豆做的，微甜，很爽口。和厄瓜多尔类似，秘鲁很多小饭馆门口的板子上都会写着当天的菜单menú，包括开胃菜/汤、主菜和饮料。昨天中午吃了ceviche、chiccharón de mixto炸混合海鲜、cancha炸玉米豆和饮料，一共才5美元。之前看很多菜单上有chiccharón de pescado还一直很纳闷为啥又有炸猪皮又有海鲜，现在才明白其实就是用炸猪皮的方法炸鱼，其实里面并没有炸猪皮，这道菜里一般还有木薯。maca不知如何解释，maca是一种植物的根部，长得像黄色的小白萝卜，一般会做成粉状然后煮成饮料，据说对身体有很多有益的功效。sanguche就是小面包随意加馅儿的三明治。可以加鸡肉、猪肉、香肠、土豆沙拉、牛油果片、橄榄等。还见识了这里的牛油果不叫aguacate而叫palta，昨天认识的阿根廷姑娘说他们那儿也这么叫。这两个都是秘鲁的常见早餐。

  • chicha morada
  • cancha
  • ceviche
  • chiccharón de mixto
  • maca
  • sanguche

晚上利马的朋友发信息说还好我昨天离开利马了，昨天今天市中心到处都是游行示威关于总统选举作弊的，比较乱。南美洲来过的这几个国家感觉示威游行已经常见得见怪不怪了。

第二天一早坐六人小飞机去看Nazca Line纳斯卡线条。除了我还有两个德国人和三个墨西哥城人。上飞机前每个人称体重，因为要按体重分配座位，重的坐前面。今天这条纯科普，以下摘抄于百度百科：“纳斯卡线条是一种巨型的地上绘，有着广大宽阔的直线，看起来就像机场跑道一样，描绘的大多是动植物。位于南美洲西部的秘鲁南部的纳斯卡荒原上，是存在了2000年的谜局：究竟是谁创造了它们并且为了什么而创造，至今仍无人能解，因此被列入十大谜团。一片绵延几公里的线条，构成各种生动的图案，镶刻在大地之上，有数以百计的个别出自简单的线条，这些以复杂排列构成的图案中包括几何学图形、鱼类、螺旋形、藻类、兀鹫、蜘蛛、花、鬣蜥、鹭、手、树木、蜂鸟、猴子、蜥蜴和人形生物。由于图案十分巨大，只能在三百米以上的高空，才能看到图案的全貌，所以一般人在处于地面的水平角度上，只能见到一条条不规则的坑纹，根本无法得知这些不规则的线条，所呈现的竟是一幅幅巨大的图案。例如：一只46米长的细腰蜘蛛，一只大约300米的蜂鸟，一只108米的卷尾猴，一只188米的蜥蜴，一只122米的兀鹫。

经过专家们将镶嵌在线条上的陶器碎片作详细研究后，证实纳斯卡线条已存在两千多年。他们推测这些图案是分为两个阶段完成的，当中最短的也至少拥有一千四百多年历史。这些巨型图案能够保存千年而没遭受到大自然的破坏，其实是和纳斯卡平原的气候有关。纳斯卡平原上最常见的是黄沙和黏土，上面铺着一层薄薄火山岩和砾石，长期的风吹日晒使它们发黑变暗。在这些所谓天然黑板上画线条，不过就是古纳斯卡人刮去几厘米的岩石层，让下面苍白的泥土显露出来。如果是在另外一种气候条件下，也许剧烈的外界侵蚀会在数月内磨蚀掉这些线条，但纳斯卡是地球上最干燥的地区之一，再加上那里几乎没有强风，因此风蚀也微乎其微。寸草不生的纳斯卡高原是如此贫瘠，如此与世隔绝。这些都为纳斯卡线条保留至今提供了条件。纳斯卡线条是干嘛用的呢？比较公认的说法是古纳斯卡人分配水源的标志，而那些图案是不同家族的族徽。人们发现，在那些的图案覆盖的地下，分布着大量的水渠。这一说法较易为人接受，因为纳斯卡平原是一片很荒凉的平原，几乎是没有降雨的。”

下午去参观了古迹Acueductos de Cantalloc，这是古代纳斯卡文化在公元200-700年建造并留下来的圆形地下水源灌溉系统，是秘鲁乃至全世界上很特别的灌溉系统。纳斯卡建在荒芜的大沙漠里，这种灌溉系统可收集地下水、灌溉干燥地区以抵御长期干旱，提供水源给附近农作物，才让纳斯卡地区成为可耕之地。现在这里可以看到约20个螺旋状的圆井，可以从地上绕圈顺着走到最底处，就可看到地下水源。据说设计成螺旋状可以清洁、储备并收集水源，但具体咋操作的不太清楚。

在这儿参观时遇见了来自秘鲁南部城市Arequipa的一家三口，向他们问了个路打了个照面，然后我自己走着去下一个离这儿20分钟左右的古迹Las Agujas，又碰到他们了。聊了两句，他们说你这大热天的走过来的啊？然后就主动提出搭我去下两个古迹，省了我很多时间和体力。之后去了El Telar和Paredones，在这些山麓丘陵上也能看到一些纳斯卡线条。这一家三口七岁的女儿大热天爬到一半儿开始哭闹，不想爬了，他爸直接背起她继续爬，边走还边逗她乐，可有爱了。参观完最后一个景点，他们提出送我回市中心的旅店，还留了联系方式，让我之后去他们住的城市Arequipa时联系他们。总是很感激这些在路上帮助我的陌生人。

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