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麦德林 (3)

11 月 22, 2019 /

昨天城市徒步游的导游推荐下午五点多的时候去市中心的一个小广场体验当地人演奏音乐跳舞的生活。我从瓜塔佩坐长途车回来时间正好，站在人群中待了半个小时，看当地人唱唱跳跳的可欢快了，被他们的热情深深感染。老头儿老大妈们步伐轻盈，个个都是高手。

回去的时候坐小缆车上山，麦德林整个城市的夜景超级赞。回到沙发主的住宅区，打算去买点儿水果。因为这儿离市中心比较远，完全没有游客，水果摊儿的小贩估计从来都没见过外国人，更别说亚洲人了。买完之后水果小哥儿对我很好奇，问了我一堆问题。小区里卖早点的大妈也认识我了。

第二天早上打车去坐空中小缆车去个海拔两千米左右的植物公园，又跟出租车小哥儿聊了一路，他跟我说他是李小龙、成龙和李连杰的铁粉。还问我会不会功夫，不是中国人都会功夫的好不好啊！？到了缆车站他找完钱我刚要下车，他说还要给我个东西，从钱包里拿出张单程缆车票卡说要给我，我拒绝了几次他还要硬塞给我。出租车小哥人这么好啊！？

坐高空缆车去植物公园的一路上一直在录像，看到了不同住宅区域，能明显感受到贫富差距。

这个公园一个人自己逛不用买票，但只能走大路，不能进登山路线。要进登山路线得买票跟导游讲解进去。我顺着工作人员告我的路线爬了半个小时，结果毛也没看见！正不知所措、想是继续爬还是回去找个讲解走登山路线去的时候，看见一辆车也在路边问当地人路呢，我跑过去问他们能不能载我去公园入口。其中的年轻女孩英语很好，问了下后座的中年女人能不能搭我，她同意了我才上车的。后来才得知车里仨人一个是司机，年轻女孩是个翻译陪同后座那个印度女的旅游的，那个印度女的丈夫好像是国家官员，来这儿开会的。完了我们一起买了导游讲解票，讲解员只说西语，但我就顺便蹭了这个专业翻译。后来发现这也不是啥登山路线，类似植物园讲解各种花花草草，全世界兰花有4000多种，哥伦比亚就有1500种。每走几步，讲解员就说这又是另一种兰花，有的超级小，得用放大镜才能看清，一路下来了解了很多花草草药的知识。

逛完公园，感觉麦德林想去的地儿都去了，实在是不知道干啥了，决定去看难得一遇的全国性大游行吧，去之前一些当地朋友建议我要注意安全。促使哥伦比亚全国性大游行的原因很多，但最主要的原因是反对政府的经济改革政策。为了防止游行者太疯狂，政府强制实行了一些安全政策：1.在麦德林，昨天半夜到今天晚上八点不允许卖酒。2. 8000位警察分布在全国各地大城市加强警力，怪不得周二就看见到处都是武警了。3. 周二还开始封锁边境，防止周边国家的人进入加入游行，出入境航班也多少会受影响。麦德林今早六点就开始有游行了，会一直持续到晚上。

我查了游行路线图，约摸着游行队伍往北走到达的时间，提前下地铁反方向往南走。一路上经过了片儿流浪汉区域，大热天儿的暴走得我脑仁儿疼，后来终于迎上游行队伍了。游行的人超级多，整条街都挤满了人，喊口号的、举标语的、齐唱歌的，还算是和平有序的游行。还好我在马路中间的隔离带上占据了有利地形，目睹了整个游行队伍经过，还没被挤死。

大部队过去后，我往市中心走，想找个咖啡馆歇着。结果找了四五个都不开张，因为游行，大多数店都关门了，就连类似星巴克的店都不开。走了一个小时才找到间营业的饭馆，做里面点了饮料喝。

晚上跟之前认识的一个当地朋友见面，在街上走着走着，刚把防雨外套脱了，就突然下起倾盆大雨了，这是我来哥伦比亚以来第一次经历大雨。我们进了个饭馆躲雨的时候，看见电视里播放全国各地游行的状况：波哥大和附近的城市游行事态很严重，有放火的、毁坏公务、打砸抢的，就在我上周末去过的天主教堂广场那里，庆幸我还好不在波哥大了。后来新闻里又说麦德林大学地铁站附近发生了小型的暴乱，不过跟波哥大比起来不是很严重。还好我是明天的飞机，不然据说今天机场航班有很多延误取消的。感觉自己总是幸运的那个。

在麦德林的沙发主家住了四天，除了他老婆是哥伦比亚人，他跟住在这栋房子的家人朋友都是委内瑞拉人，他们的儿子超可爱。委内瑞拉政局太混乱了，很多人都跑到哥伦比亚来了。跟他的侄子聊天，得知因为他是非法移民，不能继续在学校上学，每周练两天篮球，剩下的时间都无事可做，不过看他一直帮家里做家务什么的。这个沙发主是个快递小哥，这周实在是太忙了，一直跟我抱歉没能抽时间陪我逛。他说因为快圣诞节了，尤其下个月会超忙，所以我是他今年接待的最后一个沙发客。我到的前一天他们刚收留了只流浪狗。

昨晚跟他和他的家人聊了很多。他的家人人都特别善良热情，这几天我有什么问题他们都帮我解答。他对中国和美国都很感兴趣，问了我很多问题，他喜欢看YouTube来学习英语，希望以后能去美国和中国旅游。

之前城市徒步游的导游提到哥伦比亚最低月收入是250美元，近50%的人的收入都在此之下。对于沙发主家只有凉水澡可以洗这件事儿我不太理解，本以为是因为这儿四季如春，没必要用热水，后来跟住在市中心的当地朋友聊才知道其实大部分是经济原因。山上的房子便宜很多，建热水管道不容易花费很高，而且因为贫困经济原因，大部分人是负担不起的。这让我更加珍惜自己所拥有的，以后洗热水澡都不会觉得是理所应当的了。

今早去了沙发主家旁边的小早市，买了个从来没见过的哥伦比亚的黄色火龙果尝了尝，吃了早饭，还进厨房观摩老板娘做早饭。当地人的早市街摊儿让我很怀念儿时的北京。这几天看我沙发主家每次早晚饭都吃一样的arepa(玉米面饼)，我就买了他们提到过的喜欢吃的papas de rellenas con huevo (带鸡蛋的炸土豆球)给他们带回去吃。看他们吃的好开心啊！特别珍惜这次能住在远离市中心的当地沙发主家，体验真正当地人生活的经历。

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