South America,  Travel,  Peru

Paracas, Huacachina, Nazca

July 16, 2021 /

A few days ago, a local friend in Lima said that their place is a desert. I was quite confused at the time, thinking that he was just making an analogy, because it rarely rains here, but later I realized that Lima is really in the desert. It is the second largest desert city in the world after Cairo, Egypt. The desert belts of Peru and Chile in South America are the driest areas in the world. Some places here have not rained for hundreds of years. When it comes to Peru, few people would associate it with the desert, right? How can there be a large desert near the ocean? I forgot all about geography in middle school, and checked it online, because "under the combined effect of subtropical high-altitude subtropical downdraft, offshore wind, and Peruvian cold current, coupled with the barrier of the Andes Mountains, the moisture in the Amazon jungle cannot blow here. Let this area become a big desert. Simply put, this area forms a desert because the west is close to the sea, but the monsoon does not blow here; the east is blocked by the mountains, and moisture cannot come. In the end, there is no supply of rain on both sides , can only be dry for a long time, forming a desert desert.”

Because Lima is a modern big city, I can't feel being in the desert at all here. Yesterday, I took the bus all the way to Paracas to realize that Peru is a big desert. Along the way, the ocean and desert came into view at the same time. After eating at noon, the hotel proprietress recommended me to go all the way to the end of the beach to see the flamingos. There are also several small lakes to watch flamingos in the Galapagos Islands, but only three or four were seen. I walked for 45 minutes against the strong wind and sand, and finally saw flamingos, and there were not just a few, there were hundreds of them, which was very spectacular.

Last night, the youth hostel met a little girl from Argentina. Because of the severe epidemic situation in Argentina, her flight back last week was canceled at the last minute, and she had to wait another week. It seems that it is common to cancel bus flights here due to the lack of people due to the epidemic. My friends in Ecuador said that I had just left. The epidemic situation there was serious again, and the night curfew was going to be imposed again. Fortunately, I didn't catch up. And Peru just canceled the curfew a few weeks ago, I hope it will not be serious again.

When you go to Paracas National Reserve today, you can rent a bicycle, report a group to take a bus, or rent a dune buggy. Having never driven a dune buggy, decided to give it a try. The tour guide rode a scooter, and only I and another Peruvian girl drove a scooter and followed closely behind. It was very windy when driving, but fortunately I was wearing a mask and sunglasses, otherwise I would have to shave my face with sand. The road was very muddy for a while, and the mud on the front wheels splashed everywhere, and it all got on my clothes and pants. Fortunately, it was not very wet, and it bounced off when it dried. The red sandy beach by the sea in the desert is quite rare. The red color is because a nearby primitive rock contains solidified magma. The waves carry these rocks to the shore, forming a red sandy beach over a long period of time, which is a non-renewable resource.

In the afternoon, I took a bus to Huacachina, which is an hour and a half away from Paracas. Most of the passengers got off at the nearby city Ica. I was the only one left on the long-distance bus. The driver asked me if I had booked a ticket for sand skiing. If not, he would take it directly I went to the travel agency run by his friend. I got out of the car and asked the proprietress the price, which was cheaper than the one I asked before. The time was just right to catch up with the sunset. I put the big backpack in their travel agency and followed the guide into the sand dunes.

Before I came here, I knew that this was a small oasis in Peru. Once I entered, I felt that I had traveled back to Dunhuang’s Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Lake. A dune buggy is required to enjoy the panorama here. In contrast, the one I drove in the morning is simply a baby version. If you want to sit in a large off-road vehicle, sit in the front row, next to the tour guide and driver. As soon as everyone was seated, the driver drove out with full horsepower. I was still marveling at the magnificence of the desert when the car suddenly turned into a roller coaster, with various ups and downs, slopes and angles, and a car full of people The screams continued one after another, which was particularly exciting.

After driving for a long time, I finally stopped on a big high slope. The tour guide took out the sandboard from the back of the car and demonstrated it. Since I accidentally fractured my little toe while surfing the sand in the North Island of New Zealand more than two years ago, and have been limping for half a year, this sandboarding is still a bit scary. This time I simply put on full armor, did not take off my shoes and socks, wore long trousers, long sleeves, a mask and sunglasses, and this time the sandboarding was better protected, and there were two straps on the front that could be held by hand. I waited for the other tourists in the car to slide down, and there was a little boy who slid down on his father's back. We all slid a small slope first, and then a long long slope. When I was skating the big long slope, I was so excited that I realized that I had to slow down with my feet when I was far behind the people who had stopped, otherwise I would probably be able to slide all the time. What's better here is that we don't have to climb back with our own boards after sliding down the big slope, because the off-road vehicle will drive down directly to pick us up, otherwise we don't know what life it will take to climb back. It feels like everyone here is like a child, watching others slide down and listening to others screaming, and laughing together without any scruples, super happy.

From here, I took a small taxi to the nearby city of Ica. The driver is a Venezuelan. I have met many Venezuelan taxi drivers in Ecuador and Peru this time. He was still very curious about China and asked me a lot of questions. He said that his whole family is still in Venezuela. He came to Peru to work alone four years ago. He said he could earn more money here and send it back home. He had a child at the age of 15, and now his son is 7 years old, and he still questioned why I have no children. I said that if I have children, I can’t travel alone! When I arrived at the long-distance station to buy a ticket to the next station, the ticket seller took my passport and asked me excitedly, are you Chinese? Then I talked a lot about Victoria coming from China with a large group of people. I was anxious and didn’t understand it. I had to go to dinner to catch this train. When I left, the little girl treated me. That's great.

I only had dinner for half an hour, and I saw a big Chifa Peruvian Chinese restaurant across the road. I thought to myself that there are so many early Chinese immigrants in Peru, and the popular chifa has become one of the national dishes of Peru. You can see it everywhere, so you must try it! Ordered the set meal: chicken noodle soup + chaufa fried rice + kam lu wantán fried big skin wonton. There are actually a few pieces of pork liver in the chicken noodle soup, I am happy. In addition, the first bite feels like sweet and sour pineapple ancient meat, but the red sauce made of tamarind sauce contains pineapple, small char siew meat, small chicken nuggets, green peppers, green beans, and shallots. Where are the wontons? Isn't this just a deep-fried pork chop? In fact, the wonton wrapper is the main character, and the meat wrapped is just a little bit. Local Chinese restaurants in Chifa have been seen everywhere since Ecuador, but just by looking at the menu, I have no appetite. It feels very similar to the Panda Express in the United States, so I have no expectations at all, but tonight I don’t know if it’s because I’m exhausted by sandboarding and hungry, or is this true? Delicious, I enjoyed this chifa meal.

In the past few days, I also drank the common drink chicha morada (Figure 9-1), which is made from dried purple corn beans in the Andes region. It is slightly sweet and refreshing. Similar to Ecuador, the menus of the day are written on the boards at the entrance of many small restaurants in Peru, including appetizers/soups, main courses and drinks. Yesterday at noon, I ate ceviche, chiccharón de mixto fried mixed seafood, cancha fried corn beans and drinks, and the total was only 5 dollars. I saw chiccharón de pescado on many menus before, and I always wondered why there are fried pork skin and seafood. Now I understand that it is fried fish with fried pork skin. In fact, there is no fried pork skin in it. There is also cassava in general. I don’t know how to explain maca. Maca is the root of a plant that looks like a small yellow radish. It is usually made into powder and then boiled into a drink. It is said that it has many beneficial effects on the body. A sanguche is a sandwich filled with random fillings. Add chicken, pork, sausage, potato salad, sliced avocado, olives, and more. I also learned that the avocado here is not called aguacate but called palta. The Argentine girl I met yesterday said that they also call it that way there. Both are common breakfasts in Peru.

  • chicha morada
  • cancha
  • ceviche
  • chiccharon de mixto
  • maca
  • sanguche

In the evening, a friend in Lima sent a message saying that fortunately, I left Lima yesterday. Yesterday and today, there were demonstrations everywhere in the city center about cheating in the presidential election. It was quite chaotic. The countries in South America that have been to these countries feel that demonstrations have become so common.

Early the next morning, I took a small plane with six people to see the Nazca Line Nazca Line. Besides me there are two Germans and three Mexicans. Everyone is weighed before boarding the plane, because the seats are assigned according to their weight, and the heavier ones sit in the front. Today's pure science, the following is excerpted from Baidu Encyclopedia: "Nazca Lines is a giant ground painting with wide and wide straight lines, which looks like an airport runway and mostly depicts animals and plants. It is located in the west of South America. On the Nazca wasteland in southern Peru, there is a mystery that has existed for 2000 years: who created them and for what purpose, no one can solve it, so it is listed in the top ten mysteries. A stretch of several kilometers The lines, forming a variety of vivid patterns, inlaid on the ground, there are hundreds of individual lines that come from simple lines. These patterns composed of complex arrangements include geometric figures, fish, spirals, algae, vultures, etc. , spiders, flowers, iguanas, herons, hands, trees, hummingbirds, monkeys, lizards and humanoid creatures. Because the patterns are so huge, the full picture of the patterns can only be seen at an altitude of more than 300 meters, so the average person is on the ground At a horizontal angle, only irregular pit patterns can be seen, and it is impossible to know that these irregular lines present huge patterns. For example: a 46-meter-long thin-waisted spider , a hummingbird of about 300 meters, a capuchin monkey of 108 meters, a lizard of 188 meters, and a vulture of 122 meters.

After experts studied the pottery fragments inlaid on the lines in detail, it was confirmed that the Nazca lines had existed for more than two thousand years. They speculate that these patterns were completed in two stages, the shortest of which is at least 1,400 years old. These giant patterns can be preserved for thousands of years without being damaged by nature, which is actually related to the climate of the Nazca Plain. Yellow sand and clay are the most common on the Nazca Plain, covered with a thin layer of volcanic rock and gravel, which are blackened and darkened by long-term wind and sun. Drawing lines on these so-called natural blackboards is nothing more than the ancient Nazca scraping away a few centimeters of rock layers to reveal the pale dirt beneath. In another climate, severe external erosion may wear away these lines within a few months, but Nazca is one of the driest regions on earth, and there are almost no strong winds, so wind erosion is also a problem. negligible. The barren Nazca plateau is so barren and isolated from the world. These have provided the conditions for the preservation of the Nazca Lines to this day. What are the Nazca Lines used for? It is more generally accepted that it is a sign of the distribution of water by the ancient Nazca people, and those patterns are the family emblems of different families. It was found that there were a large number of water channels distributed underground covered by those patterns. This statement is easier to accept, because the Nazca Plain is a very desolate plain with almost no rainfall. "

In the afternoon, I visited the ancient site Acueductos de Cantalloc, which is a circular underground water source irrigation system built and left by the ancient Nazca culture in 200-700 AD. It is a very special irrigation system in Peru and even in the world. Nazca was built in the barren desert. This irrigation system can collect groundwater, irrigate dry areas to resist long-term drought, and provide water for nearby crops, making the Nazca area arable land. Now you can see about 20 spiral circular wells here, and you can walk around from the ground to the bottom, and you can see the underground water source. It is said that the spiral design can clean, store and collect water, but it is not clear how it works.

When visiting here, I met a family of three from Arequipa, a city in southern Peru, and asked them for a way to meet them. Then I walked to the next historic site, Las Agujas, about 20 minutes away, and met them again. After chatting for a few words, they said you came here on a hot day? Then he offered to take me to the next two monuments, which saved me a lot of time and energy. Then went to El Telar and Paredones, some of the Nazca Lines can also be seen on these foothills. The seven-year-old daughter of this family of three began to cry in the middle of climbing on a hot day. She didn't want to climb anymore. His father just carried her on his back and continued to climb, making her laugh while walking, which was so cute. After visiting the last scenic spot, they offered to send me back to the hotel in the city center, and left their contact information for me to contact them when I went to Arequipa, the city where they lived. Always grateful for these strangers who help me along the way.

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