北美洲,  墨西哥,  旅行

San Miguel de Allende, Querétaro

1 月 22, 2023 /

周五拼顺风车去San Miguel de Allende，路上一个半小时，司机大哥每天都开车去那儿上班，每天往返在路上要花三个小时，油费不便宜，所以总会用顺风车软件接送乘客。同车的另一个乘客也是去那儿工作的，她是个教声乐歌剧的老师，每周四五来这儿教私教课。平时在瓜纳华托网上教声乐和英语。她前几年去美国弗吉尼亚州交换学习声乐半年，还一直在学习德语，主要是为了唱歌剧而学的。到了San Miguel de Allende，她跟我在一个地儿下车，所以有空跟我一块儿走去市中心，因为她两个小时之后才上课。因为很多朋友说这个城市很小，一天足够了，所以我没订住的地儿，只打算找个旅店寄存我的大背包，再去逛。我们路过了长途公交车站，进去问了从这儿去下个城市Querétaro的车票，她说还是用拼顺风车软件比较划算，她帮我用她的账户马上就搜到一个，并帮我预定了位置，因为我的账户不知道为什么一直搜不出来任何顺风车信息，重新下载了注册了新的账户还是不行，我之前的沙发主的外国朋友们也有同样的问题。

走去市中心的路上路过了好几个旅店，但全不提供行李寄存服务，因为我不是他们的客人，如果丢了东西，不好承担风险。这位声乐老师说如果实在找不到，我可以把行李放在她上课的地儿，但问题是她下午两点就从那儿走了，我的顺风车是五点。我想起来之前在别的地儿旅行的时候曾把背包存放在街上的家庭小店里，虽然不是正经寄存行李的地方，但付点儿钱就可以了。之后路过个小旅行社，进去问里面的姑娘，她们很热情地说没问题，在她们下班前取走就行，也不收钱。

放下行李，顿时轻松很多。那个声乐老师说带我去吃她最喜欢吃的一个卖gorditas（玉米饼的肉夹馍）的小店。好吃是好吃，但有点儿油腻，我就吃了一个。结账时她死活不让我付钱，说我是客人，她请我吃。之后她就去上课了。她帮我预定的顺风车司机一直没回我信息，于是她之后取消了这个，又帮我订了另一个。新的司机很快回复了我并确定了接我的地点。真的很感谢这个声乐老师，帮了我这么多。

来San Miguel de Allende之前就听说这里是美国退休老人的居住圣地，很多老人退休后在这儿买房享受退休生活。因此这儿特别美国化了，消费水平也高，什么都比较贵。我在市里走了没多久，就体会到了。除了到处都能听到英语、看见美国的退休老人以外，街上到处都是比较小资的酒店、高级的画廊，咖啡馆基本上每一两个街区就有一家，也有很多卖有机食品的小店，里面卖很多美国的进口食品。很多街上的标识都带英语，还能看到很多卖豪宅的房地产中介公司，连带产业也有很多卖高级家具和室内装饰品的小店。我好奇进去逛了几家，价格很高，比美国都贵。

San Miguel de Allende市中心的哥特式大教堂很壮观，爬到山上可以看到城市全景。下午路过个公园恰巧碰到一个婚礼游行。

从San Miguel de Allende搭顺风车去Querétaro，和上个司机一样，这位司机大姐也是为了工作，每天往返于这两个城市之间，单程一个多小时。她在这儿为不同的房产开发商管理建筑工人建房子。她说这儿确实有越来越多的有钱的美国退休老人在这儿买房子，很多都是上百万美元的豪宅。我在Querétaro的沙发主的家离市中心有点儿远，但正好司机大姐会路过北边儿他家附近，于是我提前下车了。正好沙发主说他和他朋友要去和饭馆吃饭，开车顺路可以接上我。

他朋友开着个mini cooper，接上了我。车里还有我沙发主和他俩小孩儿，和他的另一个朋友。我们到了个商圈里的海鲜餐馆吃饭，进去看环境装修就感觉价格不菲。沙发主在一个旅游公司工作，主要负责安排计划坎昆的海滩婚礼，他有个三岁的儿子和10个月大的女儿。他这两朋友都是在网球俱乐部打网球认识的。一个朋友在加拿大工作很多年了，他在离多伦多五个小时以外的一个小岛上的酒店工作，因为冬天结冰船无法进入，所以每年只有4-10月在那儿，冬天冷的时候回这儿他爸妈家。他在那儿不用交房租，因为住酒店里，吃喝也包了，回墨西哥住他爸妈家，也不用租房，简直是太爽了。跟他聊得知明天是他生日，他们是来庆祝他生日的。我生日刚过完，又跟他们过。我们都快吃完了，沙发主的老婆才到，年轻漂亮身材也好。他们一晚上点了好多海鲜和酒水，最后五个人花了两三百美元，跟在美国吃顿好的差不多了，他们确还一直说这儿价格挺便宜的。

此刻我已经大概了解了他们的经济消费水平，知道他们肯定算是比较富裕的家庭了。吃饭出来都快晚上10点了，我沙发主跟他两朋友还要去另一个酒吧喝酒，他老婆开辆大车带着我和她俩小孩儿先回家了。他家小区是那种有门卫的，进去到了他们小区停车场，看到了两辆特斯拉，还有奔驰等车，之前都不记得在墨西哥见过特斯拉。上电梯进了他们家，里面装修得很现代化很美式，家具、厨房、卫浴用品都很高级，客厅里还摆着个大圣诞树，一个屋子里全是小孩儿的大玩具，有好几辆玩具车。他家客厅窗外就是个大运动场，景色不错。厨房里全是健康有机的食品，很多都是美国进口的牌子。他家附近有个大商圈，跟美国也没什么区别。后来得知他们在这栋楼里买了两个房子，楼下的房子也是他们的，沙发主的父母住在另一个城市，时不时来看他们时就住楼下。

周六他们有事儿，但沙发主叫他住在市中心的表哥陪我逛。我坐公交到市中心早上十点多，街上人很少，大部分人起得很晚，很多商户也还没开门。市中心不大，大多都是卖小商品的。我一个人逛了俩小时感觉逛得差不多了，我沙发主的表哥才到市中心。一块儿吃了个饭，感觉没什么聊的，真是只能尬聊。吃完饭他坚持要带我在市中心逛，我说我真的都刚逛过了，随便去哪儿都行，结果带我逛商场去了。虽然我完全不喜欢逛商场，但跟他去了个商场，看见各种有钱的墨西哥人消费，也感慨了下这儿的贫富差距有多严重。想到之前在瓦哈卡的厨艺课老师朋友跟我聊的墨西哥的阶级、种族、人权和whitexican的话题，现在切身体会到了。我的沙发主一家应该可以被称作所谓的whitexican了。

尽管我的沙发主和他老婆人很好，帮了我很多，我很感谢他们。但他好像并没有像别的沙发主一样花时间跟我有什么语言文化交流，除了第一天晚上一块儿吃那顿饭时聊了聊，周六他们回来后，他直接进屋就没怎么出来了，倒是他老婆在客厅里时不时跟我聊聊。虽然跟他们接触时间并不多，但几次从他的言谈举止中隐约感到他并不是很尊重他老婆，而且总是看他老婆一个人照看两个孩子，这让我有点儿看不惯。

总体感觉Querétaro有点儿无聊，也没好吃的，本来打算待两三天，结果一天就感觉待够了，周日早上坐车去墨西哥城了。

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    3 月 19, 2023 在 12:07 上午 回复

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