北美洲,  旅行,  美国

横跨美国自驾搬家(4) – 堪萨斯城，密苏里州

2 月 24, 2023 /

周三开了10个小时，从丹佛开到了堪萨斯城Kansas City。本来之前是打算开最近的一条路、经过Nebraska和Iowa两个州。但听说这两个州实在太无聊了，很平，啥都没有。两个丹佛小哥都劝我多开两三个小时，经过堪萨斯城和圣路易斯，不会那么无聊，于是我听取了他们的建议。出发前一晚丹佛开始下雪了，开出去好几个小时一路上都在下雪。这一路上也没什么景儿，也挺无聊的，而且自从进入堪萨斯州后，在高速路和小公路上看见了好几个支持特朗普2024年总统竞选的标牌和反堕胎的标牌，让我看着觉得不太自在。

之前一直无知地以为堪萨斯城属于堪萨斯州，但其实更有名的堪萨斯城是在密苏里州Missouri的。 从地图上看，堪萨斯城被分开到两个州，但其实密苏里州那边的堪萨斯城是先建立的，建立的时候堪萨斯都还不是一个州呢，八年后才有堪萨斯州。

在堪萨斯城的沙发主是一对30出头的年轻夫妻，他俩大学就认识了，在一起10年了。沙发主为湾区的一个科技公司在网上工作，他老婆是社会工作者，现在主要帮助安置城市流浪人群、为他们提供后续支持服务。他们有两只大狗和一只猫。

他们去年搬到这个区买了房子，便宜得我都难以置信，中西部果真物价一下就降下来了。他带我在他们这个区逛了一圈，房子都很漂亮很有特色。堪萨斯城市长的房子离他家走路就几分钟，他说他跟市长遛狗碰到还聊过几次天呢。附近有美国20世纪的油画家Thomas Benton的房子，还有《Gone Girl》(《消失的爱人》)和《Sharp Object》 (《利器》)的作者Gillian Flynn的妈妈的房子，作者小时候在这里长大。之后又路过一个建筑家设计的上下颠倒的房子：尖的屋顶悬着在下面。还路过了一个四十年代这儿的一个帮派领袖儿子的家，安保措施弄得很健全。沙发主说这个区有很多很贵的房子，但他们运气好买到了这个物超所值的房子，因为这个房子很老很旧，需要重新装修很多东西，所以很多人懒就不想买。他们买下之后花了一阵儿时间重新翻修，现在看起来很舒适。他家房子地势很高，从外面的露台上能看到夕阳。

中午沙发主带我去了个当地比较有名的BBQ馆子，因为他俩都是素食主义者，他只能吃这儿的蘑菇汉堡。回去的路上路过堪萨斯和密苏里两州的州界线，他说这儿很多人家住在一个州，但在另一个州工作，交税会复杂一些。下午我去了美国联邦储蓄银行的堪萨斯城分行里的货币博物馆参观，沙发主说他以前在这儿工作过很多年。这个货币博物馆很有意思，有很多互动屏幕的讲解和活动：照片上了百元大钞，大金块儿沉得提不起来，隔着玻璃窗看到工作人员和机器人在运输并分类大捆大捆的钞票，并够一定数量之后装到袋子里，里面到处都是摄像头。在这里也深刻体会到了通货膨胀的影响。

周四下午去参观了Union Station，里面有个关于火车铁路的展览。他们的橄榄球队Chiefs刚刚赢了今年的超级碗，所以到处还都是庆祝标示。又去参观了一个花园，冬天外面太冷了，没什么花儿。但室内有些植物，还有一只住在这儿经常被当地人喂食的小猫儿。

晚上给沙发主夫妻做了泰式咖喱，因为他俩都是素食主义者，所以用豆腐代替了鸡肉。他家只有一罐低脂肪的椰奶，懒得出去再买，所以就凑合用了。低脂的椰奶做出来的泰式咖喱太稀了，不稠，味道不够浓，以后千万别用低脂的做了。他家的米也只有印度米，所以做出来米饭也凑合了。不过他俩不怎么讲究吃，还挺爱吃的。吃完饭我们聊了些关于政治的话题，沙发主聊起政治就收不住了，他对政治很感兴趣。虽然我开车来的路上看到很多特朗普的标牌，但他说堪萨斯城还是算很民主的。他老婆因为跟很多流浪人群打交道，所以了解很多关于毒品药品的问题，感觉她工作压力特别大，带来的负面消极影响很多。

Nelson-Atkins美术馆（1）- 沙发主夫妻强烈推荐我来这儿参观，没想到这么大的一个美术馆，竟然是免费的，参观了三个小时之久。周五还有一些学校组织学生出游来这里参观。有来自欧洲、美洲、埃及、印度、日本等国家地区的作品。没想到还有特别多的中国展品，来自各个朝代，看到了《金瓶梅》里的插画、齐白石的两幅画、罗汉像、佛祖像、屏风、青铜器、瓷器，还有很多黄梨木家具。这么多的艺术瑰宝太震撼了。

Nelson-Atkins美术馆（2）- 还有很多印第安人的手工艺品。

又一个免费的美术馆：Kemper现代艺术美术馆。

这里有名的City Market只有周五到周日开，在这儿看到了中东、非洲、印度、意大利、巴西等小超市和餐馆，旁边还有个挺大的亚洲超市。听沙发主说这儿有很多埃塞俄比亚人和越南人。

晚上沙发主带我去了个他跟他老婆最喜欢的一个现场爵士乐酒吧，气氛很不错。来堪萨斯城之前真是对这里一无所知，但这几天觉得这个城市还挺有意思的，天气暖和了值得再来。

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