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早上到达普诺Puno-秘鲁东南部的一个城市，这里有秘鲁民俗文化之城之称。没想到这儿比Cusco海拔还高、有3800米，气温还低，昼夜温差很大。现在冬季是这儿最冷的时候。早上到达这里时零度左右，但中午时日照很强又变得很暖和。
Puno紧挨着Titicaca湖，这是世界上海拔最高的可承载航运的湖泊，湖的一边是秘鲁，另一边就是玻利维亚了。Titicaca湖有一百多个Uros乌鲁斯浮岛，土著乌鲁族依然住在这些人工岛上，他们很多人连西班牙语都不会说，而说Quechua语（南美安第斯原住民语言）个另一种他们自己的土著语言。很不可思议的是：这些浮岛、他们居住的房子、交通工具（两头翘的船）都是由长在湖里的芦苇建造而成的。因为湖里水很浅，每个浮岛最下部会固定于河床里，导游说这样不会漂啊漂漂到玻利维亚去，芦苇密集的根部铺在岛上作为顶层，但水下部分会慢慢腐烂下沉，必须定期更换或铺更多的芦苇在上面，然后再把芦苇盖的房子放上面。乌鲁族人靠捕鱼、编织和旅游业为生。由于岛上的一切都是用芦苇建的，那他们怎么生火做饭呢？据说他们的炉灶是架在石头上的以保护芦苇。但参观了一圈之后，明显感觉他们的传统生活已经完全被商业化了，一上岛当地小朋友拉着你就去买他们的手工艺品，坐他们的芦苇船小姑娘唱个歌然后就向游客要钱，而且最后明目张胆地乱收费。明明之前报团的时候说一切费用都包括，而且上岛也付了参观门票，现在下船了他们却要收坐芦苇船的船费，问题是上船前，导游直接让所有人上船，完全没提船票的事儿。整个团除了我，还有两个法国游客，剩下的都是秘鲁当地游客。那两法国人可较真儿了，说什么都坚持这是不合理不知情乱收费，不付船票，导游也知道自己不占理，就没再好意思问我们要钱了。
参观完乌鲁斯浮岛，又坐船去另一个大岛Amantani。中午在当地村民家吃了午饭，下午发现只有那两个法国人和我今晚会住岛上村民家，剩下的当地游客中午吃完饭下午就回市里了。这个岛上主要种植大麦、藜麦、土豆等植物，动物主要就是绵羊。下午一个当地村民导游带我们仨爬山到岛顶的两座神庙Pachamama(大地之母)和Pachatata(大地之父)。庙宇每年只有一月当地祭祀朝奉神灵庆祝活动的时候才会开放，但我们主要是来看日落的。以为离开Cusco之后就不用再爬山了，没想到今天又爬了很多，岛顶有海拔4000米。日落景色真的很美，另一面可以看到玻利维亚的雪山。
第二天早上在岛上当地人家里吃完早饭，被分配帮忙干农活儿：剥大干豆角。刚开始就我一个人慢慢剥，之后昨天那对法国情侣和加拿大魁北克一家五口人也加入了。人多力量大，两个小时剥完了两大麻袋豆角。这对加拿大夫妇俩带着他们三个儿子（5、8、12岁）环游世界旅行一年了，先去了希腊、又去了埃及、坦桑尼亚等非洲国家，然后来了南美哥伦比亚、厄瓜多尔和秘鲁，他们去年这一年都是边旅行边home schooling在家授课，八月会回加拿大，然后孩子们会回学校上学。相信这一年的全球旅行的经历对三个孩子今后的人生有很大的影响。
晚上回到Puno市里，在市中心教堂门口的广场上正好碰到盛装打扮的载歌载舞的当地人，尽管晚上气温很低，但他们热情似火的舞蹈让很多人都驻足观看。
Puno由于他们地理位置气候的原因，他们的食物还是挺特别的，跟秘鲁其他地方吃到的食物不太一样。刚到Puno的那个早上，当地朋友带我去市场里吃thimpo de carachi y trucha, 是一盘蒸的很鲜美的两种本地Titicaca湖里的鱼，和煮的大土豆和chuño，再给碗鱼汤。Chuño是秘鲁和玻利维亚的Quechua和Aymara土著民族加工的土豆。经历五天的加工过程，把那些苦的、防冻的土豆夜晚放在室外，暴露在极低温的环境，然后第二天暴露在高海拔强日照下。这种传统加工方法最早起源于印加帝国，可以长期保存土豆，并使其含有更高的营养价值。一般都是在每年的冬季六七月开始这个冷冻暴晒的过程，chuño一般有白色的和黑色的两种。在岛上住的那天吃的基本就是土豆和米饭了，还第一次吃了炸大片圆奶酪。回了Puno市里，尝了甜品alfajores crema de oro，与传统的面包店里的alfajores夹心焦糖饼干不同，这个是三片黏在一起的炸的甜薄脆。salchipapa香肠和薯条是自从去了厄瓜多尔的第一天就在满大街都能看见的快餐小吃，来了秘鲁也发现到处都是。一直不屑于吃的垃圾食品最后出于好奇，不明白为啥这么流行，决定还是尝尝吧。salchipapa上可以挤各种酱：番茄酱、蛋黄酱、黄芥末酱、橄榄酱、辣酱等，然后用牙签吃。尝完了还是不明白为啥这么流行。api热玉米汁，有紫色的和白色的两种，在秘鲁其他城市都没见过，可能是个Puno这里天气冷的时候喝吧。一般喝这个api热饮，还会就着个超大的空心empanada吃。除了秘鲁常见的三明治早餐，Puno市的另外两种常见早餐是mazamorra de quinua和pesque。mazamorra de quinua 是用桂皮等香料、糖、牛奶煮的藜麦，上面还可以加奶酪丝，pesque是用打碎的藜麦煮的粥，两种藜麦粥的味道都一般。在Puno吃的所有食物里chairo应该算是比较合我口味的，这是秘鲁玻利维亚安第斯地区的特色炖汤，汤非常浓，里面有土豆、chuño、胡萝卜、芹菜、大豆子、大麦、羊肉或牛肉等。Inca Kola印加可乐是秘鲁随处可见的像泡泡糖味道的甜汽水，但太甜了，喝了一半就喝不下去了。街上小卖部里常见的一种零食就是爆米花，但因为秘鲁玉米品种太多了，爆出来的爆米花有的是巨大的，味道不错。
thimpo de carachi y trucha 
alfajores crema de oro 
salchipapa 
api 
empanada 
mazamorra de quinua 
pesque 
chairo 
Inca Kola 
简体中文 
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