南美洲,  厄瓜多尔,  旅行

Baños, Chimborazo

6 月 17, 2021 /

坐了4个小时长途车到了下一个城市Baños。哪个城市会把自己的名字叫“厕所”啊！？一路上景色很美，看到了更多的云雾缭绕的雨林。到了“厕所“，住的青旅整个三层好像只有我一个人，老板很热情，跟我推荐了些附近值得去的地儿。在街上随便溜达，瞬间喜欢上了这个被群山环绕的小城，离市中心走了十分钟就见到了一个大瀑布，天黑之后还有变颜色的灯光照映。

一大早见了个网上认识的当地人，他是个导游，带团去过所有的拉丁美洲国家，还会说英语和法语。由于职业原因，他在街上走着没走两步就遇见个熟人打招呼，包括菜市场大妈、打扫卫生的大爷、卖水果的小贩等，跟所有从事旅游业有关的当地人更是熟的不行。我好奇问他为啥这么美的一个城市给自己起名为“厕所”，他的回答让我顿时很惭愧自己西语学业不精，baño除了“厕所”，还有“浴池”的意思，这儿以很多瀑布温泉而著名。

本来打算今天报个小团坐chivo车（chivo是“山羊”的意思，因为坐这种敞篷观光车像山羊跑一样一颠一颠的）参观好几个瀑布，但导游朋友强烈建议骑车游玩所有的瀑布。于是我们租了山地车，跟着他骑车骑了22公里，加上徒步玩了所有的景点。我今天比较幸运，碰上了少有的晴天，前一周基本天天下雨。而且我们出发早，赶在所有chiva车的参团游客前到达，到哪儿基本上都没什么游客。今天这一天见的瀑布比过去好几年见的瀑布都多，近距离感受了几个气势恢宏的大瀑布，每个瀑布都极为壮观。除了瀑布，还参观了一个做甜食的工厂店，主要卖番石榴糕和甘蔗糖。回来路上，他还给我示范怎么把手放在白蚁窝上，让些白蚁在你手上爬十几秒种，然后在把他们吹回去，再搓手过搓其他皮肤部分，做天然的防蚊虫剂，因为白蚁会分泌出一种液体产生的气味可以驱赶蚊虫，闻一闻还挺醒脑的。

下午等车去参观山上的La Casa del Árbol 树屋，我去旁边的小店充值手机卡的时候，导游朋友跟排队在我后面的那个人叽里呱啦地说了一大堆，我就听见他介绍我是中国的游客啥的，突然听见我后面的姑娘中文问我“你是中国人吗？需要帮忙吗？”顿时感觉特别亲切，她是福建人，10几岁的时候就搬到这里了，现在做铝合金生意，说厄瓜多尔很多城市都有不少中国人。

树屋在很高的山上，这树屋上有两个超大的秋千，虽然我胆儿挺大的，但坐上去之后才发现有多瘆得慌，悠起来那就更别提了。为了张照片真是豁出去了。下山一路上风景格外壮丽，坐车上都看呆了。

Chimborazo是厄瓜多尔最高的山峰，位于安第斯山脉，将近6300米，也是个死火山，上次喷发是1400年以前了。要不是在Baños的导游朋友提出带我来，我也没打算来，后来才知道一个人也来不了，需要专业导游带领攀爬。经导游朋友建议，今早买了类似太妃糖的melcocha、香蕉、苹果和granadilla百香果，登山的时候补充糖分和能量。

坐长途车到Ambato转车，找了个旅店把双肩背里不需要的东西放这儿了，老板娘可认真负责了，把我护照信息手机号码和我朋友的手机号码都记下了，还当场打电话确定可以接通。得知我们要去登山，她看起来持怀疑态度，问了很多细节晚上几点回来才让我们走。因为施工修路，长途车不经过平时等车的车站，我们只能绕道打车到下一站再等车。朋友说大部分旅行团都会直接开车带游客到4800米的营地，很多旅客下车没走几步就高反开始吐。为了让我适应高海拔，4100米的时候我们提前下车，爬了30分钟缓坡儿，再下来继续坐车往上到4200米左右下车。太妃糖果真好使，每次朋友看我步伐减慢的时候就让我吃一小块儿含嘴里，感觉马上满血复活，不然头晕腿软的。刚开始的时候每走50米距离就得歇一下，深呼吸缓缓，慢慢地高反缓解些了速度可以跟上了。朋友的手表显示海拔和温度，是很好的参照。

4600左右就到达冰川了，但由于全球气候变暖，最近些年冰川融化了很多。攀登快到4800米营地的时候，大概下午4点了。还好朋友截了辆往山下开的私家车，问他们从营地下来后面是否还有别的车，他们说他们是最后一辆了，于是我们问是否可以搭他们车下山，再坐长途车。他们很爽快地答应了，因为看他们车里三个大人三个小孩儿已经满了，本来要坐他们皮卡后面，然后他们让俩小孩都挤到前排座，抱着一个小孩，让我俩坐后排。上车之后跟他们小孩儿聊天儿，只有跟小朋友用西语聊天儿时才能特自信。他们是从另一个城市Cuenca自驾来玩的。他们12岁的儿子对我也挺感兴趣，问我中文怎么说“食物”，看来也是个吃货。我问他们在学校学不学英语，然后问了他们些简单的英语问题。下车之后小男孩主动说要一起合影，特别感谢他们载我们一小段出保护区。

告别之后我们需要坐长途车回Ambato市里，但在唯一的高速路上边走边等车将近一个小时都没等到车，按说每半个小时就有一辆的。这一个小时之内只要看见任何来这个方向的车辆(大卡车、私家车等)，我们还伸手想搭便车。但郁闷的是路过大概20几辆车，大多都满载了没停，有三四辆车减速了但离近一看我后面还有一人，踩上油门就走了。我朋友说安第斯高地这片儿的人跟海岸的或亚马逊的人比起来不太热情或乐于助人。这儿一下午风都超级大，四五点气温下降极快，感觉体温骤降，再搭不上车或者等不到长途车估计真得冻死在这儿。不过我总是对人性有信心的，一个小时之后，截到了往另一个方向开的皮卡(只要是车就截，不管是往哪个方向的了)，他们本来没停，但开出去几十米减速并倒车回来，终于看到希望了。他们车里其实也满了，所以我俩坐在皮卡后面。一路开了45分钟到下一个大城市Riobamba我们再坐长途车回来的。本来之前高反轻微头疼吃了泰诺没事儿了，但这一路上各种颠簸，震得我脑仁儿疼回来了。六点多刚上长途车，旅店老板娘就给我朋友打电话问我们是否安全人在哪儿，真负责啊！坐长途车回来一路上又冷又饿，下了车直奔餐馆吃饭，跟朋友告别，他坐车回Baños。我回旅店洗了个热水澡满血复活了又。

单发一条关于Chimborazo的动物vicuña，中文名是骆马或小羊驼，跟草泥马和骆驼有点儿像，主要居住在安第斯山脉中段的干旱草原上。离他们太近之后，他们拔腿就跑，速度可快了。看见一朵紫色的小花儿，朋友说嚼花瓣可以缓解高反。

这几天吃了当地特色tigrillo，包括咖啡、avena燕麦果汁、煎鸡蛋、炖牛肉、炒碎土豆饼tortilla verde和奶酪。这里的特色早饭是humitas，跟墨西哥的玉米面tamales很像。一般还会搭配morocho喝，是一种用玉米和牛奶做的热饮。尝了 tortilla de papa土豆饼，还吃了市场里的新鲜的水果沙拉，第一天的午饭吃了locro de papas和常见的鸡肉饭。locros de papas是土豆鲜奶酪汤，里面还有牛油果。晚饭吃了bolón，没想到有这么大个儿，是青芭蕉碾压捣碎之后成面团状，里面加上奶酪或者炸猪皮碎，捏成球状，再烘烤或炸。最后吃的晚饭是guatita，里面有米饭、牛肚儿、面条和鸡腿，用花生做的酱料像泰国咖喱，不同的地域好像也有不同的做法。

  • tigrillo
  • locros de papas
  • bolón
  • tortilla de papa
  • humita
  • morocho
  • granadilla
  • guatita

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