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其实来哥伦比亚之前除了波哥大、麦德林和Cali就基本不知道其他的城市了, 要不是一年半前我在北京认识的阿根廷朋友强烈推荐我来Tayrona国家公园徒步，我压根儿都不知道圣玛尔塔这个在哥伦比亚北边的城市。
今早仍就尚未谋面的沙发主的开出租车的邻居又义务送我去长途车站去Tayrona国家公园。因为他昨天无论如何也不收我钱，今天给他买了些早点，看他吃得很开心。到了车站，他让我等小巴车，说车票应该是8k哥伦比亚比索。等车的时候，旁边一个大巴车司机过来要说服我上他的车，同样的价钱。我没怎么搭理他，一会儿一辆出租车停下说只要7k就拉我去，这么便宜是因为他反正要去那个公园接人，不然也是空驶过去。多亏坐了这辆出租车，很快就到公园了，赶上了第一波儿人少的时候入园。而且出租车司机提醒我一定要买驱蚊喷雾，不然里面厉害的蚊虫超级多。入园前在门口的小卖部买了一小瓶，坐摆渡车进园，下车之后还没来得及喷呢，就被蚊子咬了两包。停下来喷的时候，坐同一辆摆渡车过去的大部队马上就没影儿了。这会儿后面来了一个大叔，也是一个人，于是我俩就搭伴儿一起徒步。
这位阿根廷大叔只会说西语。我来哥伦比亚这将近俩礼拜算是体会到了会西语的重要性了，还好大学学了些基本的，然后去年开始捡起来了些，来的这些天进步了不少。哥伦比亚会说英语的当地人太少了，就连旅游热门城市景点都基本没有会说英语的，所以建议要来这边儿自由行的朋友们提前学点儿基本的西语，否则经历会大打折扣。这位大叔是药剂师，俩儿子都快大学毕业了，他因为在同一个公司工作了二十多年，所以年假有40多天，所以来哥伦比亚玩大概20多天。羡慕！
因为打算在国家公园里住一晚，被当地人告知园内吃喝超级贵，建议自己带足水跟干粮。我背着三升水、水果、坚果跟饼干等必需品徒步了一个小时到达了第一个营地，也是最便宜的一个。这里可以租帐篷或者吊床，吊床是便宜些，但怕会被蚊虫咬得很惨就还是租了帐篷。终于可以放下大包儿换小包儿继续徒步去海滩了。
因为这里经常下雨，所以在丛林里徒步的一路上特别泥泞，泥里混杂着各种马粪，还超级湿热。还好为了这个徒步我穿了登山鞋。沿途一路上有三个海滩，第一个离我们营地很近，然后再徒步一两个小时，就到了第三个海滩。加勒比海滩超级美，海水特别蓝。到了才发现我忘带泳衣了，但浑身粘得要命，不管那么多了还是下海了。
回营地的路上，阿根廷大叔突然发现他把衬衫忘在海滩上了，于是他让我先自己走回去。途中有个分叉口，天色已暗，周围一个人都没有，我正处在迷路边缘呢，这时远处跑来一只狗，后面跟着个当地大妈，穿着凉拖儿遛狗的。我的登山鞋上全是泥，她凉拖却还挺干净的，果然是轻车熟路的，好心的大妈带着我回到了营地。
晚上五点多天就黑了，营地没电没网没信号，洗了澡、吃完带的干粮就真不知道能干嘛了。洗澡那条件就别提了，我进去都震惊了。整个露天大澡堂子一边一个帘子掀开就进去了，男女混用吗！？然后才发现只有一个绿塑料管子出水可以洗。另外一面儿的墙修的特别矮，外面路过的人估计不用垫脚就能看见里面。我正更衣要洗呢，外面就有人也要进来洗，还好他先问了里面有没有人。我极快地冲了不到五分钟的澡就出来了，还好期间没人直接掀开帘子进来洗。刚来哥伦比亚的时候洗澡盼着能有热水，现在能有水就行！
晚上八点多就进帐篷睡了，然后每两三个小时就醒一次，浑身湿乎乎的，戴着耳塞还能听见树林里的风声和大海声，庆幸的是没蚊虫烦扰。记自从三月底新西兰小脚趾头骨裂之后到现在第一次真正意义上的徒步，还得慢慢恢复。
从国家公园回来，跟刚认识的一个当地沙发客去市中心逛了逛。他是麦德林人，但在这儿工作，是位徒步带队导游，一带团就是那种四五天的背帐篷徒步的团，正好这两天休息。今天还坐上了自从来了哥伦比亚之后的第一个带空调的公交车。
第二天一早沙发主邻居出租小哥带我去机场，没想到一下楼从他车里出来的竟是素未谋面的沙发主本人和他老婆！出租车小哥正好接他们度假回来！终于见到他们本人了好开心啊，从他家走之前留给他们了些从加州带来的小吃。最后一张是从机场厕所里照的，感觉在挨着加勒比海的厕所里可以蹲很久。这是在哥伦比亚的最后一天了，真的没待够啊。我要回去恶补西语，明年一定会再来南美的！
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