亚洲,  新加坡,  旅行

槟城

2 月 25, 2019 /

到了槟城买了渡轮票刚进去就被这对唱歌的父子吸引了，驻足欣赏了一刻钟。这小男孩儿很有星范儿，还有着直逼心底穿透力极强的嗓音。初到槟城的乔治城，我先坐公车去沙发主工作的商场，把我的大背包放他这儿， 然后就出去溜达了。槟城的壁画无处不在，在街头巷尾拐个弯、随便溜达溜达就会发现惊喜。这儿也是个吃货的天堂，号称平民美食城，又要大开吃戒了。约了个在沙发客软件上认识的加拿大女孩儿在咖啡馆见面。跟她聊得还挺投机的，她大学毕业刚三年，经历很丰富也很有意思。她曾为安大略省的政客工作过两年，兼职专业教过游泳很多年，然后去坦桑尼亚支教一年，在那一年中学了日常的斯瓦西里语Swahili，还在Tedx Talk演讲分享过过她的这些经历。现在她是比较自由的旅行网站Skyscanner的专栏作家，不需要有固定的工作地点，所以现在在东南亚常住。她还刚去中国旅行了挺久，一月底那会儿还在北京，可惜那会儿还不认识。我俩聊到旅行和人生经历的时候，有很多共鸣。这姑娘也是个性情中人，说着听着我俩就能眼眶都红了。她大学毕业刚三年就有着这么多经历，我跟她说现在想想自己25岁那会儿干嘛呢，后悔那时候没多出去走走看看这个世界，她说现在也为时不晚啊！

晚上去沙发住家，这个沙发主又是个姓林的大哥，这位林大哥是个资深吃货，刚到他家就带我去吃各种当地人去的街摊儿，然后还计划了第二天的美食之旅，叫上了他一个有车的朋友，第二天带我从上午10点吃到下午3点，一直就没停。简直就是台湾高雄沙发主跟朋友带我去台南的美食之旅的重现。他不仅跟我介绍菜名，还告诉我每道菜的来源、食材和做法，太有研究了。昨晚在他家附近夜市吃喝过的东西有：豆蔻饮料、猪肠粉、卤面、鸭肉粿条汤、马来西亚街头汉堡。

  • 卤面
  • 鸭肉粿条汤
  • 猪肠粉
  • 街头汉堡

第二天一早去Pasar Lebuh Cecil早市吃了咖喱面、罗汉果水、薄饼、爪哇面Jawa Mee和麻薯。跟他们在槟城大街上溜达的时候，被一位大爷的卡拉OK声吸引，把头伸进门儿瞟了几眼，里面的另一个大爷马上出来招呼我，聊了一会儿热情地拽我跟朋友进去唱一首。递给我个歌本儿，里面只有老歌儿，我会唱的就只有邓丽君的了。唱了一首《甜蜜蜜》，大爷们不让我走了，说北京的朋友来了多唱几首再走。那就再合唱一首《月亮代表我的心》吧！人家唱得好专业啊！出来之后又去了另一个店吃了煎蕊、叻沙Laksa、猪肠粥，去莫定标娘惹粿厂吃了娘惹糕点，之后去Esplanade吃了鱿鱼面Mee Sotong、椰子冰饮。然后开车去了植物园，用手吃香蕉叶包的椰浆饭。

  • 咖喱面
  • 爪哇面
  • 薄饼
  • 麻薯
  • 煎蕊
  • 叻沙Laksa
  • 猪肠粥
  • 娘惹糕点
  • 椰浆饭
  • 鱿鱼面
    Mee Sotong
  • 椰子冰饮
  • 酿豆腐

槟城的这位沙发主是位魔术师，也会设计制作魔术道具，并在店里卖。我以前周围从来不认识任何跟魔术相关的人。之前他说过槟城做生意的比较随性、比较享受生活，自己的店想开就开，天儿不好有事儿之类的说不开就不开了，但吉隆坡则不同。没想到他自己真的是这样，昨天带我逛槟城，就决定魔术店不开了。后来听他接到过好几个电话问怎么没开门儿的，耽误他生意了真过意不去。他是槟城唯一的当地魔术师，很多外国人通过网络找到他，旅行来到槟城时会来跟他切磋交流。他以前是读商业管理的，但后来对魔术特别感兴趣，就花时间自学练习，并成为了他的职业。他跟我聊了聊魔术圈的事儿，我就好奇问了他刘谦春晚那个魔术。他说发明那个魔术的人在一个魔术比赛里确实是不借助任何拖儿凭实力变的，刘谦应该也有这实力的，但要么网上的视频是假的，要么就是全部春晚现场观众都是托儿。昨晚他还给我变了几个所谓简单的扑克牌魔术，简直是太神奇了，弄得我一头雾水。还教了我一个小魔术。他告诉我变魔术最重要的一点是：变魔术时魔术师所呈现的presentation（跟观众如何互动、说什么话、营造出一个什么氛围、个人魅力等）远远比单独的技巧跟手法重要。刘谦就是presentation表现得很好。

他住的区特别有当地人的生活气息，很多元化，超级接地气儿，一进去感觉突然穿越到香港的怪物大厦。能听到穆斯林教徒一天多次的祈祷，也能看见耳朵不好的华人大妈放着超大音量的小收音机听广播，有人让她关小点声别扰民，她会拿着拐杖打他。能看到当地人日常的生活状态跟方式，简直太有意思了。

槟城的第三天，一个当地的马来人邀请我们几个外国游客（我、一个加拿大女孩儿、一个埃及小哥）去参加他朋友儿子的邻居的婚礼。还好这次带了这么一条裙子和一条大围巾，去穆斯林的婚礼还是多遮着点比较尊重他们的风俗。来了直奔婚礼，这儿的婚礼还是比较简单的，邻里乡亲在小区里搭的棚子办婚礼，中午大家去了就可以开吃自助餐了。所有参加婚礼的马来人都不用餐具，直接用手抓饭吃，当地朋友为了我们仨找了叉子勺子，我觉得还是入乡随俗比较好，就放弃用餐具也上手了。用手吃好像感觉吃得更香哦。

快两点的时候新郎新娘登场了，分别从街的两端往中间走，碰头之后再一起走到主席台，跟众人合影，完了再吃第二轮。这时我们才知道这朋友还要带我们去另一个婚礼继续吃。第二个婚礼隆重一些，是室内的场地，还雇了专业的歌手，其中还用中文唱了《甜蜜蜜》。他们的婚礼的礼服很精致，颜色也很美，新郎的礼服上插着马来短剑Keris。发现两个新郎都带着墨镜，据说只是为了时尚，哈哈。

马来朋友在婚礼之后邀请我们去他家，没多久他就要开始一日五次的祷告了，还专门有一个仪器显示具体祷告的时间（根据日出日落的时间）。正好埃及的这个旅行者也可以跟他一起祈祷。我就在门口看着，大概持续十分钟左右，以前只在电影里见过。之后他又开车带我们四处逛逛，途中开车累了顺便去了个他的朋友家，他们卷了个纸烟，貌似还加了点儿大麻。他后来再开车时，我下意识的赶紧系上了安全带。

回到槟城去了另一个沙发主的朋友的生日趴，带我一块儿去了。到了发现大部分人都是通过沙发客软件结识的，有一半儿当地人，有几个像我一样的游客，还有些长期生活在这儿的外国人。过生日的是个在这儿工作的西班牙人，做了西班牙蛋饼tortilla和海鲜饭paella。认识了几个很有意思的世界各国的人：在槟城工作的来自保加利亚的德语老师、在哪儿都可以工作的葡萄牙网站程序员、从小就跟外交官父母在各地周游长期生活、会说多国语言、在马来西亚读大学并工作的津巴布韦人、在泰国国际学校教艺术的老师。晚上又去了个夜市，吃了酿豆腐。

  • 西班牙海鲜饭
  • 印度抛饼
  • 海南鸡饭
  • 炸香蕉

第四天沙发主跟他朋友带我去槟城国家公园爬山。早饭吃了印度抛饼。这两个也是长期登山、超热爱大自然的人。我本来觉得我体力还可以，结果他俩走得超快、根本不会停下来等我，头儿都不回，我得边跑边蹦的才能勉强跟上。一路上在热带雨林中纯赶路，两人话也挺少的，只有当发现了当地有意思的动植物时会小停一会儿给我讲解讲解。去了Turtle Beach，看见了各种有怪异的螃蟹、可恶的海蜇、可爱的绿海龟和大蜥蜴。还跟他们下河淌水走了好一段儿，说雨季水涨潮的时候能把人都没过了。中午吃了海南鸡饭和炸香蕉。

坐大巴回槟城，去看了沙发主林大哥在商场里的小魔术摊子，他给变了一个很神奇的硬币魔术。又去见了第一天见的加拿大姑娘，在街上公园里看到很多人做室外瑜伽。来了马来西亚憋了整一个礼拜终于吃上榴莲了。猫山王榴莲果真是吃过的榴莲中最好吃的了，吃完之后美食家林大哥又给我上了一课：吃完榴莲容易上火，把水倒在吃完的榴莲壳里喝掉可以去火，至于为什么那就是迷信了。吃完榴莲又吃了四果汤、炒果条、粿汁、satay和福建虾面。吃完回去路上又碰见个大晚上华人在办丧事的，办丧事就在路边搭的棚子办的，据说晚上请道士来做法事什么的。我觉得我跟槟城太有缘了，这几天体验了马来西亚各种当地生活文化：参加了穆斯林的婚礼、外来务工的生日趴和华人的葬礼，还天天品尝各种美食，就这么吃据说还有很多好吃的还没吃呢。

  • 四果汤
  • 炒果条
  • satay
  • 猫山王榴莲
  • 福建虾面

总是通过沙发客平台和美食结识各种志同道合的朋友，当这两者结合起来的时候那就更是锦上添花了。在高雄认了个吃货沙发主当弟，现在又多了个槟城吃货+魔术师沙发主的哥。离别总是伤感的，不知下次相见会是何时了，但有缘总会再见的。

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