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纽约直飞巴拿马不到五个小时就到了，一下飞机一股热浪迎面扑来，超级湿热。打车去市中心，跟司机聊天问他推荐当地好吃的，竟说不上来。他说大城市压力太大，一般不出去吃饭。到了沙发主家，他也说不出什么当地特色食物。哎，只能自己慢慢探索了。这个沙发主是哥斯达黎加人，六年前因为工作原因搬来巴拿马城，他是个很大的一个软件公司的系统工程师，以前去过他们硅谷的公司出差。他疫情前两三年就开始居家办公了，办公桌上有两个大显示器和笔记本电脑。他说他一个人离开家太久想再干两年就搬回哥斯达黎加了，因为他说这些年错过了很多家人一起的珍贵的时光。
下午出门烈日当空、闷热无比。去买手机卡的时候，进了家店，开店的都是亚裔，问了发现店主会说中文。后来又进了家小商店买水，门口挂着中文的“开业大吉“和福字，进门听见老板的小孩说了句“再见”，我就说你们会说中文啊！结果两小孩和他们妈看着我没任何反应，原来是我听错了。他们之间都说西语的，完全听不懂中文，尴尬。在附近的几个街区发现也有很多华裔开的小商店，自然也少不了一些非正宗的中餐馆了。
沙发主家对面就是巴拿马大学，他说今年大学生们已经搞了10次左右的抗议游行了，有时候警察来会放烟雾弹，他在家开着窗户都能闻到。我回来路过大学门口的时候进去溜达溜达，路过了个食堂，好奇进去看看，正好饿了就点了菜吃，没什么特别的，跟国内食堂没法儿比。出来时看到大学大门旁边一栋楼上几个大字写着“巴拿马大学孔子学院”，好奇走过去看看，看到门口一张揭牌仪式的大照片上有我母校二外书记和外交部长王毅（也是二外校友），而且二外是支持创办此孔院的机构之一，顿时感到格外亲切。上楼推开门，里面只有一个工作人员。跟她聊了几句，她提到她刚在中国大学毕业不久外派来志愿教中文一年。我顺口问了句“哪个大学？”，她竟也是二外毕业的，好激动啊。后来才得知巴拿马孔院是在二外支持下在2017年建起来的。她说他们跟很多当地中小学合作推广中文和中国文化，但疫情以来，都改成线上课了。聊到一半儿，她的另一个志愿者同事也回来了，她也是二外的学妹。因为是志愿者临时工作签证的原因，她们都不能离开首都巴拿马城去别的城市玩儿，更别提离开巴拿马去临近国家旅游了，有太多限制了。于是她俩给我推荐了些当地好玩儿的地儿。她们还会在这儿待半年，她们哪儿都去不了都快憋坏了，可怜的小学妹啊。
提到巴拿马，一般首先想到的就是巴拿马运河，这也被誉为世界第八大奇迹。最初投资开凿运河的是法国人，但由于工程技术问题和两万多名工人由于疾病死亡，导致工程停滞。美国人接手用了10年时间完成了运河的建造。各种船只要通过运河从大西洋驶入太平洋，要克服26米的高度差，这就要靠三个水闸了。
为了避开游客人潮，早上八点半就去了巴拿马运河参观，人还不多，正巧赶上两艘大船慢慢通过驶入太平洋，全程目睹了开关船闸、和水位升高。还挺壮观的。
巴拿马是除了美国和厄瓜多尔之外也用美元的国家。不用换当地货币很方便，不过当地也有一美元的钱币。这里的公交地铁只能刷交通卡，没交通卡司机不收现金，于是司机没收我钱就让我上车了。之后去Cerro Ancón爬山看城市全景，走到半路开始下小雨，没多会儿就停了，爬到山顶的时候天儿又晴了。果真像当地人说的，现在雨季这雨完全无法预料，说下就下，说停就停。打车去海鲜市场吃饭，司机的妈妈是广东中山人，爸爸是一半中国人一半巴拿马人。他会说粤语，也会说一点儿普通话。得知巴拿马有很多从中国来的移民，很多都是早期来修铁路的劳工。据说在巴拿马的人几乎有1/4的人有中国血统。今天路过好多个小超市小商店都是华裔开的，但大多只会说西语。
吃完午饭去西班牙殖民时期的老城Casco Viejo逛了逛，远远可以看到市中心连成一片的摩天大楼。之后又去了Causeway Amador，长达六公里的狭长的深入太平洋的公路，连接几个小岛。
第三天一早去了Panama Viejo巴拿马古城，古城建于1519年，是太平洋上第一个欧洲人定居点，成为西班牙的殖民地。1671年被英国海盗洗劫后烧毁，现残存的仅是主教堂的一些大型砖石建筑。在古城里，远远可以看到新城连成一片的摩天大楼，但眼前只有古城残存的断壁残垣。
巴拿马城的现代化中心让其他拉美城市无法匹敌，图一的标志性建筑F&F Tower，也叫螺丝钉建筑，沿着海岸线看到很多摩天大楼。下午去了Metropolitan Natural Parque公园徒步，一路上近距离看到了很多小动物。我看一只很漂亮的鸟在草丛里一动不动的，我走过去越靠近它，它的叫声就越大越频繁，离近了才发现旁边有四个小鸟蛋，原来是在保护它的小鸟宝宝呢。我照了张相赶紧走了。
第四天报了个一个团去了面朝加勒比海的San Blas群岛。从巴拿马城出发坐着四驱车开了俩小时公路，然后山路十八弯一路大坑小坑颠了一个小时到了海边停车场，再坐船半个多小时到了小岛上。San Blas群岛有365个岛屿，由本地的土著原住民管辖。这里还算比较原生态的，还未被大型旅游业开发。车上船上同行的有个厄瓜多尔大姐、一对儿巴拿马情侣和三个阿根廷小哥。遇到的很多拉美人都生孩子特别早，这个厄瓜多尔大姐也就不到50，外孙女都12岁了。另一个阿根廷小哥才25岁，已经是俩女儿的爹了，大女儿8岁了都。
今天去的两个小岛真不是一般的小，走不到一分钟就绕了一圈了。在椰子树荫下躺着，真怕被椰子砸着。一条小渔船慢慢开过来岸边，渔民举着大龙虾和大螃蟹向岸上的游客吆喝一美元一个，事实上当然没有那么便宜了，只是个噱头招呼游客过去，其实是花一美元可以举着大龙虾照相而已。之后又上船开到个天然泳池，这是在海洋中间一片很浅的圆形区域，远看能看到这里和外围的海水颜色大不相同。浮潜时看到了各种小鱼、珊瑚和海星。
最后一天早上去了Soberanía国家公园，刚进公园门口路过大牌子的时候，另一边的工作人员莫名突然冲我大喊，刚开始没听懂，后来突然听懂之后更莫名其妙了，不知他为什么说我懒(perezoso)，然后看到大牌子另一边挂着一直树懒，原来西语中树懒跟懒是同一个词。大部分树懒都只有三个指头，树懒的粗毛夹缝中长有与其互利共生的绿藻，提供很好的保护色。照完相我就在树懒旁静静地看着它，过了会儿它终于有动静了，开始慢慢地往后转头，因为转得很慢，也不知它什么时候停，结果最后极其诡异地转了180度到完全冲后，没想到它脖子可以这么自由地旋转。之后徒步路上还看到了小树蛙和一些奇怪的植物。隐约中还看到了几只长尾猴，但因为跑得太快了，一下儿就不见了。
第一次近距离接触树懒，太萌了！这真的是视频哦，一动不动而已。
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