中美洲,  巴拿马,  旅行

巴拿马 (2)

6 月 17, 2022 /

从巴拿马城坐长途车到了Valle de Antón。第二天早上起了个大早，去La India Dormida爬山，青旅提供免费的自行车，骑了十分钟就到了。上山的沿途中有很多瀑布，景色很美，山顶上能看到整个Valle de Antón小镇的全景。下山后再骑上小车去Cerro Gaital，骑车来的时候没发现，走的时候骑上开始有下坡儿的时候才发现这破自行车竟然没闸，无法减速，发现的时候已经太晚了，速度快得吓人。尝试用脚减速也无用，还好下坡儿不太长，到平地之后速度就慢慢减下来了。

继续往Cerro Gaital的方向骑，上坡还好。中途路上突然变成大上坡，而且全是大石子儿，自行车根本就上不去，我打算把自行车放那儿，然后走上去，这时边上小公园的工作人员跟我说走上去要一个小时，还不如等小公交车，等20分钟估计下一辆就能到。于是我就坐那儿等呀等呀，等了快一个小时还没车来。要是我刚开始就往上走，估计现在都到了。实在等不下去了，于是我开始往上走。因为只有一条山路，所以边走边回头看能不能搭便车。一辆小卡车停下来载我上去，但中途司机到了他的目的地，跟我说再往上走40分钟就能到了。我就继续往上走，走了10分钟又拦了辆大卡车，一看发现是同一个司机，他换了辆大卡车继续运货，就又接上我给我送到了徒步路线入口。跟早上徒步的那个山差不多，因为是雨季，山路泥泞湿滑，还好登山鞋比较给力。

回青旅的时候基本是推着车回来的，因为一路都是大下坡儿。回青旅还车，我跟前台说自行车没闸下坡儿太危险了，他说往后登是刹车，而且不建议骑车去那些徒步道，我入住的时候他忘了告我了。

这几天发现一般下午会开始下雷阵雨，于是想赶紧趁着中午去最后一个想去的山Cerro Cara Iguana。打车时我看司机车前边放了个tamal大粽子，我问他是不是tamal，他马上问我喜不喜欢吃，他说他刚在教堂买了两个，他吃了一个，吃不下第二个了，可以给我。我接受了他的好意，下车前看我包儿里有袋饼干，给了他一袋，算是感谢他吧。

到了山脚下，看见一大片乌云黑压压地向我这儿过来了，也没放心上，心想这儿的雨一般来得快，去得也快。登山到一半儿时，开始下起小雨，我打起伞继续前行，结果越下越大，完全没地儿避雨，我原地蹲下降低高度这样小伞能挡住更多的雨水，希望雨马上会停。但过了五分钟，不但没停，反而越下越大变成倾盆大雨了。上午白等了一个小时的公交给我上的一课就是有些事儿根本就不能等，我想起来登山入口处有个有遮挡的休息处，于是一路颠着下山，裤子都湿了。到了避雨处，几分钟之后又有三个高中生跑了下来，其中一个男孩儿连伞都没有，浑身都湿透了。真是瓢泼大雨，电闪雷鸣的，我们这一等等了两个小时，雨才慢慢停下来。回到青旅，洗了个热水澡、吃了大粽子，感觉好多了。

从Valle de Antón坐长途车中午到了巴拿马第三大城市David歇了个脚儿。在市中心的公园里看到了几只巨蜥，第一次看到绿色的。前天领教了热带雨季大暴雨的厉害，不得不信天气预报了。去市中心迅速溜达了一圈儿，看一大片乌云向这边移动，街边摆摊儿的也开始收摊儿了，我也赶忙回旅店了。回去没多久就开始下大暴雨了，一下就下了三个小时。

第二天一早从David坐车到了Boquete，把行李放在旅店前台然后去徒步，本来要去Las Tres Cascadas徒步的，但出租车司机说旁边的Pipeline徒步道更好。下车之后看见旁边刚停了个小房车，车上下来个女的帮她老公停车。之前网上查有些徒步路线最好搭伴，不然容易走丢。所以我问他们能不能一起徒步，正好他们也是要徒步Pipeline的。那女的说让我等会儿因为她得回车上换双鞋。过了好久突然看见他们车上跳下来个小孩儿，才两岁。怪不得这么半天才好呢。这女的是加州圣地亚哥人，男的是德国人。他们2020年疫情开始买了个小房车，里面空的啥都没有。因为这男的是建材设计工程师，他利用疫情间的周末自己设计建造了房车内部。去年年初建好了之后在美国开房车自由行了几个月试驾。然后去年11月他们辞职开启了他们的房车之旅。一路从圣地亚哥路上经过了墨西哥和所有中美洲国家：伯利兹、危地马拉、萨尔瓦多、洪都拉斯、尼加拉瓜、哥斯达黎加，现在到了巴拿马。他们父母两周后会从德国和圣地亚哥飞到巴拿马城跟他们汇合。然后8月他们就要回去了，因为小孩儿3岁要去上托儿所了。他们把圣地亚哥的房子租出去了，每月收房租。这女的是个平面设计师，他俩旅行期间有时还会在网上做些自由职业。

徒步路上这男的基本背着他儿子爬山。一路上也遇到了几个从美国来的游客，有个老爷爷是在洛杉矶时报干了20年的摄影师，又在亚利桑那当了快20年导游带团，现在退休了来这儿好几个月了，基本就是为了摄影的。很可惜我们没请导游，所以很难自己看到猴子、Quetzal鸟和其他动物。不过景色都很美，尤其是有cloud forest云雾缭绕的时候。快出来的时候，又开始下雨了，这对夫妇顺路带我回镇上，我也能顺便看了他们自己设计的房车内部。虽然空间不大，但里面有个小厨房、小厕所、婴儿床、婴儿座椅、小书架上面有英文德文故事书、一小筐玩具，感觉很温馨。很佩服他们带着这么小的小孩儿开房车看世界，他们一路上都会摄影记录点滴，这样可以儿子长大之后给他看，否则他估计都记不得了。真佩服他们的勇气和决心。

连续几天下午都会下大雨，今天也不例外，一下就下好几个小时到晚上。下午就在旅店里待着，旅店房间外的露台上景色超级好，青山绿水的。

在Boquete的第二天一早去了前一天本来要去的Las Tres Cascadas爬山，山路还挺陡的，也很湿滑泥泞。雨季水量真充沛，瀑布飞流而下，稍微离近点儿衣服就溅湿了。路上看到了在叶子上歇脚儿的奇特的蓝色小昆虫，很有意思。返程时遇到了个三天前在另一个小镇Valle de Antón徒步时聊了几句的姑娘。她是法国人，但这三年一直在巴西北边的法属圭亚那生活工作。这个地区是法国领地，属于欧盟的一部分，与巴西和苏里南交界。她说在那儿生活的三年中遇到了很多有意思的当地人和旅行者，所以她决定写一本书。她辞职后还没想好以后想干嘛或者去哪儿生活。徒步出来她开车顺路带我回镇上。回去的路上还看到了一面天然的奇特的岩石墙，有些人在这儿攀岩。

巴拿马的食物没有什么特别的，跟哥伦比亚和厄瓜多尔的食物差不多。典型的早餐有empanada烤的或炸的馅饺(图1-1)。tortilla玉米饼(图1-2和1-4)，与其他国家的tortilla不同的是：这儿的tortilla是很厚的小圆玉米饼。hojaldre类似炸油饼(图1-3)。bollo de maíz香蕉叶包的玉米长条饼(图1-4)。Carimaeñola炸木薯(图1-2)。Chicheme玉米牛奶汁(图1-5)。其他的食物还有各种炖肉炖鸡肉(图1-6)、ropa vieja炖牛肉(图1-7)、arroz con pollo鸡肉饭(图1-8和1-9)、炸鱼(图2-1和2-2)、Ensalada de feria甜菜根土豆沙拉(图2-3)。

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200条评论

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  • 에볼루션사이트

    4 月 14, 2023 在 2:08 上午 回复

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