墨西哥城 (2)
早上去一个当地市场吃了quesadilla和pambazo。Quesadilla跟在美国的夹了一堆奶酪烤的大饼完全不一样,墨西哥城的quesadilla一般不加奶酪,而且看起来更像empanada有馅儿的炸饺子。前两天来之前瓜达拉哈拉的沙发主就跟我说:他第一次来墨西哥城吃这儿的quesadilla发现竟然没有奶酪的时候他是多么的惊诧,因为queso是奶酪的意思,没有queso怎么能叫quesadilla呢?!他跟我说的时候一脸的鄙视。看来同一个国家的地域歧视在哪儿都有啊,哈哈。我点了一个有奶酪的(和奶油生菜一起撒在最上面),一个没有的。Pambazo是墨西哥城特有的三明治,面包用的是比较硬有嚼劲儿的那种,然后浸过guajillo salsa辣椒酱并炸过,所以是红色的。里面夹的一般是豆子、土豆泥和辣香肠。
之后走着去Chapultepec公园。路过街边一个修鞋的小铺子,走过了十几米停了下来,心想要不要修一下我脚上穿的这双跑鞋,前面有点儿开胶了,在这儿修肯定比在美国修便宜多了,而且在美国我都找不着专门修鞋的地儿,于是我回头去修鞋,才1美元,15分钟就搞定了。Chapultepec公园里很大,逛到消食儿了之后,去了美食纪录片Taco Chronicles第一季里的另一家tacos de guisado。又是一个特别小的店铺,里面只有两三个座位,进去一眼就看到了眼熟的老爷爷,他一个人看管店铺做饭并服务,有很多当地人买了站在外面吃。我点了两个tacos,一个是牛舌的,一个是chicharrón炸五花肉的。分量很大,还好只点了两个。老爷爷知道我是看纪录片来吃他的tacos之后特别开心,开始翻照片给我看他跟各国来的客人的合影。
吃得心满意足之后又去逛了两个当地市场,这个区域附近住着特别多在当地工作生活的外国人,Mercado Roma市场是比较有小资情调的,价格也贵很多。另一个Mercado de Medellín比较平民,主要卖中美南美洲的各种食材。
逛完市场坐公交去了离市里稍远的Soumaya博物馆,建筑极其有特色。里面六层展品极其丰富,二层一整层都是亚洲尤其是中国的艺术品,看到了陶瓷、石刻、雕塑等,有观音,如来佛、寿星、张果老、何仙姑、九龙壁等。后来听朋友说才知道Soumaya是以墨西哥首富商业巨头Carlos Slim Helú死去的妻子命名的,为了纪念她,整个博物馆里六层的展品全是他们私有的艺术品,还免门票,有钱人就是不差钱。2010-2013年他被福布斯评为世界首富。
逛完博物馆出来见了个新的当地朋友,这哥们儿可厉害了,在北京读研两年,又在苏州工作了一年。回墨西哥城之后在华为工作过,还有个在这儿的滴滴打车工作的机会,但没去。现在在当地类似美团的送货公司工作。他当时拿的中国政府给墨西哥大学生的奖学金去北理工读的研,专业课全在周末,所以平时他每天都去上中文课,一年多就把汉语水平考试HSK五级考下来了。他中文真的是厉害,中文交流基本无障碍,偶尔有障碍了就换西语或者英语,三种语言轮番交流。
他带我去附近富人区Polanco逛逛,这儿特别现代化。我们看见了一堆豪车、大牌儿商店、穿着打扮跟高端的当地人和外国人。感觉这突然回到了加州的海滨城市。看来贫富差距在哪儿都挺严重的,同一个城市不同的区域,生活消费水平有着天壤之别。我们在这儿当地有名的冰淇淋连锁店Neveria Roxy吃了个冰淇淋,又去了Kiosco Morisco一个摩尔庭院建筑,然后本来要直接去他推荐的taco店的,但他先带我去喝了墨西哥流行的mezcal(一种龙舌兰酒)和michelada(青柠檬辣椒盐啤酒),本来我跟他说了我基本不喝酒的,然后他给我讲到墨西哥的当地俚语“juevebes”,jueve的意思是“星期四”,bebes的意思是“你喝”,一般这儿周四晚上人们下班之后会去酒吧喝酒,一些酒吧点酒会有折扣,类似美国的happy hour吧。今天正好是周四,我就入乡随俗吧。边喝边聊,他说他最喜欢北京了,聊到王府井、三里屯、工体西门、万达、欢乐谷、广场舞、动物园服装批发市场(不存在了吧)、大学食堂的饭、北外对外经贸的美女等,聊得我挺想家的。真是佩服他在那么短的几年里能把中文学得这么好,当地文化习俗了解的头头是道。
最后终于转战到他强烈推荐的taco店,我们吃了al pastor和suadero taco,跟之前吃的taco比起来有点儿小贵,但两个都是至今吃过的最好吃的了,比昨晚吃的强很多。这家店还白送一碗汤caldo tlalpeño鸡肉鹰嘴豆辣汤,也超级好喝。
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однако этакая ветпомощь – изначала не более знание занятия капля семьей.
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затем) чтоб(ы) распространять нашу с тобой аудиторию равно нельзя
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