北美洲,  墨西哥,  旅行

墨西哥城 (1)

4 月 7, 2021 /

墨西哥首都墨西哥城是个大城市，人口仅次于北京。这儿比瓜达拉哈拉凉快很多，一年四季不会太冷或太热。到了这儿的沙发主家，他跟他爸住一起。这个沙发主是墨西哥出生的，但小时候搬去芝加哥生活过10年，这么一算我10年前刚在芝加哥教小学生高中生的时候，他才16岁也是个高中生。然后他去爱尔兰读的大学，又在温哥华工作了几年。2019年还去过中国旅游，他收集各国不同印刷版本的钱币，让我帮他带张20刀的美元，他换给我当地现金。我还送了他一袋果丹皮，他说他很喜欢吃中国的各种零食。

中午出门去寻觅美食纪录片Taco Chronicles第二季里面的一个卖taco de guisado的小店铺。店面超级小，在很安静的一片住宅区里。下公交到找到这个店之前突然看到路边的一个日本公园，进去一看感觉突然穿越到了日本。这些天确实看到了好多寿司店，比自助中餐多多了。还听说墨西哥这些年韩国人越来越多，有很多韩餐店。从这个日本公园再走一条街拐个弯就找到了taco小店，亲眼见到了从纪录片里被采访的做这个做了几十年的瘦瘦的老奶奶，突然感觉特别亲切。Taco de guisado是一种经典的家里自制的、有多种慢炖的馅做选择的taco，可以是慢炖的不同部位的肉或者鸡蛋、青椒、蘑菇等，再加上米饭或豆子。一般是早午饭吃，下午三四点就关门了。这家店有十几种不同的选择，老奶奶一个个地给我介绍，我说我是从电视里看到她的。旁边一个客人边吃边推荐我点他常吃的milanesa薄牛排，他说他从小就吃这家店的taco吃了几十年了。我选了两个，但第三个不确定选啥，老奶奶直接给我选了一个。味道都不错，吃了之后付钱给老爷爷的时候，他还莫名找我钱，我说我点了三个怎么只收我两个的钱，他跟老奶奶再确定了一下，老奶奶说第三个是让你免费尝尝的，还谢谢我大老远的来她的店吃taco。

完了坐公交去墨西哥知名女画家Frida Kahlo博物馆。我看着谷歌地图，显示到站了我就下车了，结果公交车司机叫住我说“你不是要去博物馆吗？回来回来，还有一站呢！” 我到博物馆门口一看，门票要预约而且还挺贵的，当地人和外国游客是两个价钱，沙发主说其实里面也没啥特别的，不太值，我也就没进去。知道Frida的一生经历了各种波折，有兴趣的可以看看电影《Frida》或者查查她的生平。去旁边一个当地市场Coyoacan吃了个tostada de pulpo章鱼脆玉米饼，店面很大。然后又吃了个mamey味儿的冰淇淋helado。之后去城南的UNAM墨西哥国家独立大学看Espacio Escultórico室外雕塑，到了门口4:05，可惜他们四点就关门了。

两三年前在北京的时候用一个语伴软件认识了个来自墨西哥城的朋友，加了微信之后基本没聊过。来墨西哥之前我联系他想问他些旅行的事儿，他说我来的时候让他一个好朋友带我逛逛。我联系了他的朋友下午见面。他在市中心附近工作，跟我约了在附近的地铁站见。他去过中国三次，第一次是去参加散打培训，后两次在北京上海住了快了一年。聊到他很想念中国的美食：包子、烤鸭、羊肉串等，他每次去回来都胖了很多。聊到中国人的热情，他说他10年前第一次去的时候确实感觉中国人很热情，尤其对老外，但两年前去的时候感觉不一样了，他觉得这十年中国人生活条件越来越好了有钱了，少了些对外国游客的仰视，而且在中国的外国人也越来越多了，不稀罕了。聊到“老外”，他说我在墨西哥就是个老外，哈哈。今天在墨西哥城看到很多长期住在当地的外国人和外国游客，确实是个国际化大都市。

来之前听说墨西哥城的人有个独特的名字叫chilangos，我问他原因，他说其实他们比较反感这个词，墨西哥城的人从来不用这个词叫称呼自己，而且其他地方的人这么叫他们，多少是有些贬义的。我们路过些卖taco的小街摊儿，他说有些卫生状况不好，吃了会拉肚子，他们管这种小街摊儿叫“12步”，意思是吃完走出去12步就要拉肚子了，哈哈。我们一起做某些公交的时候，我发现周围只有我一个女性，他说一般女性独自乘车会上最前面的女性儿童专用车厢，这是几年前女权主义者争取到的权利，防止高峰期性骚扰等问题，日本也是这样。说实话我觉得这并不治本，而且其实也并不是所谓的平等。应该要让人们从根本意识到要尊重女性而避免性骚扰等问题，而不是简单地在空间上把男女隔开，生活场所中毕竟基本还是男女混合的。而且男性就不会遭到女性性骚扰吗？女性就不会遭到同性的性骚扰吗？这种法律和规定在美国是通过不了的。但说实话，我确实在女性车厢里觉得相对安全些，固有印象里的小偷啊强盗什么的大多都是男性。

晚饭我们先吃了tacos de cochinita pibil。这是传统的Yucatán地区的有着玛雅根源的食物，用一种无毛猪的猪肉，提前腌制、用香蕉叶包起来、放进个大坑里、用泥土封上、慢炖好几个小时。pibil在玛雅文里的意思是地下的大坑烤箱。这是我第一次看到tacos被卷起来扣着放在盘子上的，还没搞清楚原因。然后我们又去吃了美食纪录片里第一季的一家有名的tacos al pastor，这种tacos起源于中东，类似黎巴嫩的shawrama或土耳其烤肉，墨西哥城街上比比皆是，但这家特别之处就在于他们24小时营业，而且大多数人都开车点餐，停在他们专门停车场在车里吃完走人，服务员都是跑着下单送餐的。我还第一次尝了taco de ojo (眼睛)，不是眼珠啦，而是眼睛附近的肉，特别软，没啥特别的。

不管我去哪儿旅行，感觉当地人都会放大夸张当地的治安情况。他们总说自己的城市比较危险，千万别在街边站着用手机，别在地铁里把手机拿出来，兜里别放东西会被偷等等。确实独自旅行的游客会比较容易被盯上好下手，注意点儿没坏处，不能放松警惕。可能是我运气好，或者打扮得看起来不太像游客，容易混入当地人的行列，独自旅行时从来没感觉到过危险或者被偷东西，地铁公交上很多人都在玩儿手机呢。我这个当地朋友也是一直跟我说某些区域很危险，我要坐公交回去前，他坚决要陪我走到车站。但走去车站的五分钟里路过公园里很多人在闲逛，有跑来跑去的小孩儿、遛狗的等，不知道所谓的危险在哪儿。当地人总是好心，但度还是要自己掌握的。

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