South America,  Travel,  Peru

Cusco

July 22, 2021 /

Last night, I took the long-distance bus from Nazca to Cusco for 15 hours. Because this bus came from Lima during the day, it was almost full when I got on the bus. My seat was taken by another person, and I told him that he occupied my seat, but because he was next to his family, I didn't think he meant to change seats, and there was an empty seat behind, so I sat in it . Passing through a small town after 11 o'clock in the middle of the night, someone got on the bus and came to me and said that I took her seat. This time I can only forcefully ask the person who sat in my seat to sit in his own seat again. He didn't move for a long time, so I kept saying that this is my seat, you should sit on the seat on your ticket, and many passengers around woke up, and they also helped condemn that person to sit back in his own seat. Get up and sit in the back. It wouldn't be so much trouble if everyone followed the rules. This time I was at ease, and slept until seven o'clock with earplugs on.

When I arrived in Cusco, the girl at the front desk of the youth hostel can speak Chinese. She is from Ipoh, Malaysia. She has worked in Japan for three years and can speak Japanese. She is interested in Spanish and Latin American culture. She quit her job and went to Mexico more than a year ago. Now I am working and traveling in Peru. I feel that Cusco is a place that has not been affected by the epidemic during this trip. The streets are full of people, and the youth hostels are full. I can't imagine how many tourists there were before the epidemic.

I went to the huge San Pedro market at noon, had a simple lunch here, and then a local friend took me to visit some nearby blocks and the observation deck to watch the panoramic view of the city. The altitude here is more than 3,000 meters, and it is somewhat breathless to climb the steps due to lack of oxygen. But the scenery is invincible and beautiful, with blue sky, white clouds and red roofs. Street stalls in the local market sell a variety of vegetables and fruits. In the picture below, you can see some of the more than 3,000 different types of potatoes in Peru, and some of the more than 50 different types of corn. Sellers of freshly squeezed orange juice can be seen everywhere on the street. After drinking a glass, they will usually pour you another half glass. Street fruit papaya and local little red plums are both sweet.

The next day, I reported a one-day group to Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain) Rainbow Mountain, which is three or four hours away from Cusco. When I decided to sign up for the tour last night, I was completely attracted by the photos. Later, I found out that it took four or five hours to hike, and it was to reach an altitude of 5,000 meters. No one told me that I should come to Cusco for a few days to adapt to the high altitude. go? I just arrived yesterday!

Depart at 4:30 in the morning and come back at 5:00 in the afternoon. There were more than a dozen people in this group, and I was the only foreign tourist. After driving for more than two hours, I had a group meal in a restaurant and drank coca tea. This is a local herbal leaf. It is said that making tea can relieve high fever symptom. After driving for more than an hour on the mountain road, we arrived at the entrance of Rainbow Mountain. The tour guide said that there were about 1,000 tourists a day recently, but before the epidemic, it was three or four times the current number. I can't imagine what kind of scene it is, because today I feel that I only see people on the top of the mountain. We started climbing from more than 4,600 meters, and climbed to the top of more than 5,000 meters in two hours. The scenery at the beginning was very similar to Yading, Daocheng, Sichuan. It was a bit sunny at first along the way, and then the temperature dropped faster as it got higher, and then it started to snow a little, coupled with the high altitude, it was really tiring! When I was the weakest, I encouraged myself: I climbed one of the highest mountains near Cusco, and Machu Picchu after that was just a cloud. On the top of the mountain, there are many local Incas carrying gas tanks of food and beverages to sell, and some wearing traditional costumes and pulling vicunas to take photos with tourists on it. The scenery on the top of the mountain is really shocking. The colors are formed by different minerals in the rock layers, much like Zhangye in Gansu. The glaciers can be seen not far away, but the tour guide said that due to global warming, the glaciers have melted a lot these years. After going down the mountain and returning to the car, the Peruvian tourists in the same car kindly asked me how I was doing and whether I was feeling well. I went down the mountain by car and went to the restaurant in the morning to eat a buffet group meal, drank hot soup, and didn't dare to eat too much, for fear of motion sickness after another two hours of driving. Fortunately, I slept in the car and returned to Cusco to recover.

Cusco went to Sacred Valley for a day trip on the third day. No wonder this group is the cheapest, because this group is a bit like a domestic shopping group. After visiting a scenic spot, I will go to a shopping place: alpaca textile factory, chocolate, salt factory. The Alpaca Fabric Factory is kind of interesting. Local women will use alpaca wool to make sweaters, shawls, hats, scarves and other products by hand. Of course, there are also machine-made products. Of course, handmade products are much more expensive. They also demonstrated to us how they use natural dyes such as plants, insects, and ores to color alpaca fabrics.

There are many Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley. Today I visited Chinchero, Moray, Urumbamba and Ollantaytambo, and all kinds of pastoral scenery along the way. Moray is a unique giant circular terrace built by the Incas on the mountain. Ollantaytambo has the largest and most majestic Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley - the Temple of the Sun. When the temple was not repaired, Cusco fell under the invasion of the Spanish army. From the Inca Trail here, you can hike to Machu Picchu in four days. In addition to the temple, the town itself is also very distinctive. The layout of the town is similar to that of an Inca city, with large stone-paved streets and narrow alleys that are not accessible to cars. Cute animal statues can often be seen on the roofs of small town residents' houses. The Incas prayed to the Pancha Mama (Mother Earth) before building their houses, and these statuettes represent Mother Earth's blessings.

I was walking in the town in the afternoon, and when I passed by a family, they suddenly said "Hello" to me. This is actually quite common. When traveling, some locals would say "Hello" or "konnichiwa" when they saw an Asian. . I replied in a friendly manner, but I didn't expect the father in the family to say "My name is..." in Chinese. Then his 18-year-old son and daughter also spoke a few words in Chinese. Chatting with them, I learned that they studied Chinese for two or three years in high school, and went to China with other student groups for two or three weeks a few years ago. His father also learned a few words of Chinese from them. Very interesting family.

For some reason, the alarm didn’t go off the next morning, and it was exactly six o’clock when I woke up, and I missed the six o’clock train to Machu Picchu, which I made sure to set the alarm several times last night. Fortunately, because there were not many tourists due to the epidemic, I had to go online and book a 10 o'clock train ticket at a cost. The train drove all the way along the Urubamba River to the hot water town of Agua Caliente in Machu Picchu. The scenery along the way was beautiful. There was a skylight on the top of the carriage. Before getting on the train, there were two staff members wearing masks in traditional Inca costumes to entertain the public and dance for a group photo. of.

Before the epidemic, there were about 2,500 tourists visiting Machu Picchu every day. The number of tourists who reopened in November last year was 30%, and it seems to have increased to 40% in May this year. Needless to say, the benefits of coming during the epidemic are not to mention the huge crowds, especially when I went in at 2:00 in the afternoon, it was very empty and there were very few people. I bought the tickets when I arrived. But the downside is that many other attractions and routes in Machu Picchu are closed, so I stayed in it for more than an hour and finished the visit. Now I especially admire those friends who took the Inca Trail or other four or five-day trails to reach Machu Picchu on foot. I definitely can't experience the moment when they went through hardships and obstacles, finally arrived and saw Machu Picchu. It was too easy for me to come all the way by train and car. I was a little shocked when I saw Machu Picchu at first glance, but it felt more like punching in.

Located in the Andes Mountains, Machu Picchu is the relic of the Inca Empire and the birthplace of the Inca civilization. Surrounded by mountains, the terrain is dangerous. The following is excerpted from the Internet: "Peru is a country with a high risk of earthquakes. The construction of Machu Picchu uses subtle traditional Inca construction techniques. The polished ashlar blocks are stacked and fit together like a puzzle without using mortar. Together. The stone joints are so precise and perfect that even a blade of grass cannot be inserted. The Inca stone walls also have many design details, such as trapezoidal doors and windows and rooms with four corners that slope slightly inward, which prevent the building from collapsing in earthquakes. This city built on the hills was well designed, and the Incas also developed agriculture here. Although the terrain is steep, it has a perfect irrigation system."

In the morning, I hiked to Mandor Waterfall, which is about an hour away from Hot Water Town. Along the way, I walked along the train track. It was very clean and the scenery was very good. I saw Huayna Picchu (the high mountain behind Machu Picchu). In the afternoon, I took the train back to Cusco, and there was an Israeli girl sitting next to me, and a couple from Mexico sitting opposite. All three of them reached Machu Picchu on the Salcantay route for four or five days on foot, admiration! The couple in Mexico just got engaged while hiking a few days ago, and by the way, they had their honeymoon. One of them is from Mexico City and the other is from Guadalajara, which happened to be the two places I went to in April. Talking to them about the delicacies of these two cities made them very excited. The Israeli girl next to me also traveled in Ecuador last month before coming to Peru, and we talked about that she also went to the Grapagos Islands. I suddenly remembered that I briefly met a pair of American sisters and an Israeli girl when I was hiking to a small beach known to the locals. I asked her if she also went to that small beach. After a long time, she finally remembered me. . It's a small world, we've seen it once, and now we're seated next to each other on the train. Like an Israeli brother I met before, she also just joined the army (two years for women and three years for men) and then traveled alone. I remember I asked the younger brother what he did during the three years he joined the army. He said a few words vaguely, and then said that it was a military secret and he couldn't say more. The girl didn't mind, saying that before joining the army, everyone will have physical fitness and intelligence tests, and will be assigned to different departments, receive different trainings, and work in different jobs according to the results and personal interests and specialties. When asked what she did when she joined the army, she said that she was a fighter and had received a lot of fighting training. After that, her job was to lead military dogs to the Palestine border to detect mines and so on. God, she must have risked her life every day! She said that although that experience was very bitter, it made her who she is today. Without that experience, she would not be traveling alone now.

Regarding the new Peruvian food I tried recently: tamal dumplings (Figure 7-1), unlike Mexico and other Latin American countries, the tamal here has olives in it. Blackened blood sausage (picture 7-2). Less common than chicha morada (Fig. 7-4), chicha de jora (Fig. 7-3) is made from fermented yellow corn and contains a small amount of alcohol. Arroz con pato large plate of duck rice (picture 7-5), I was shocked when this plate of rice came up, it felt like half a fat duck and a big plate of rice, I only ate half of what I could eat, and the rest The second half is for dinner. People in Peru also often eat quinoa and drink quinoa soup (Figure 7-6). It is also very common to drink quinoa milk or boiled quinoa apple juice for breakfast (Figure 7-7). There is also muña tea (Figure 7-8), which is a kind of local herbal plant tea. It is said that, like coca tea, it can relieve high fever. In addition to drinks, breakfast is usually a small sandwich (Figure 7-9/8-1): small bread with fried eggs, chicken, lettuce, ham sausage, avocado, olives, butter, jam, etc. It is very common to eat trucha trout here in Cusco, fried or fried trout (Figure 8-2/3) with lentil lentils or beans, or made into ceviche lemon juice marinated sashimi (Figure 8-4). Another common dish in Peru is called aji de gallina (Figure 8-5), stewed hen with small yellow peppers, walnuts, garlic, turmeric and other condiments, along with olives, potatoes and hard-boiled eggs. Pisco sour (Figure 8-6) is a famous wine in Peru, which usually has fresh lemon juice, syrup, and beaten egg whites on top. Crema de zapallo cheese pumpkin soup (Picture 8-7), alpaca a la plancha grilled alpaca (Picture 8-8) and cuy guinea pig (Picture 8-9) are a major feature of Cusco, I have not eaten Just wanted to try it out of curiosity. These two animals are very cute, but I still can't bear to eat them. Alpaca meat and guinea pig meat are relatively woody, so they don't actually taste very delicious. Palta relleno (Figure 9-5) is avocado cut in half, various diced vegetable salads are placed in the middle, and cheese shreds are sprinkled on top.

  • tamal
  • relleno
  • chicha de jora
  • arroz con pato
  • Quinoa Soup
  • quinoa con manzana
  • muña tea
  • sanguche con palta
  • trucha frita
  • lenteja y trucha
  • ceviche de trucha
  • aji de gallina
  • little red plum
  • pisco sour
  • crema de zapallo
  • alpaca a la plancha
  • cuy chactado
  • palta relleno
  • espagueti napoliana
  • papa relleno
  • rocoto relleno

Back to Cusco, the one-day group went to Humantay Lake, which is the starting point of Salcantay's four-day trek to Machu Picchu. The scenery along the way is extremely beautiful, hiking from 3800 meters above sea level to 4200 meters above sea level, it takes nearly three hours to go back and forth.

In the same group, I met three more Israelis. They had the same background as the few I met before. They had just joined the army and then came to South America to travel alone indefinitely. They said that generally their families would not sponsor them to travel, and they would work to save money by themselves, and they would get some money when they left the army. Their work in the military includes medical personnel assisting the wounded, training skydivers in the Air Force, and combat fighters. Talk to them about the war, about their comrades who lost their lives accidentally when they joined the army, and about how they were depressed because they couldn't integrate into the "macho" military culture during their enlistment. But regardless of what they've been through, they all believe that time in the military made them who they are now. During this trip, the five Israelis who have just joined the army are all in their early 20s, but it is obvious that their speech and behavior are much more mature than their peers.

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