中美洲,  旅行,  洪都拉斯,  美食

科潘

7 月 9, 2022 /

放暑假最初打算这次就玩巴拿马和哥斯达黎加，但没想到地方小、玩了三个礼拜感兴趣的都玩完了。十天前飞到萨尔瓦多后，本打算玩完了直接飞去墨西哥，再飞回美国。结果在家庭旅馆认识的其他旅客都建议我乘坐陆地交通过境去危地马拉再去墨西哥，还有建议我顺路把洪都拉斯最著名的玛雅遗址Copán科潘也去了的。男友从小在洪都拉斯长大，一直劝我别自己一个人去，比较危险，等他下次过节回去再一起去。我去过这么多地儿还没觉得哪儿危险的，当地人总说自己的国家危险。不过等就等吧，我就一直没把洪都拉斯放在独自旅行的行程上。不过这回离科潘这么近，又顺路，不顺便去可惜了。于是临时决定从萨尔瓦多过境去科潘。家庭旅店帮忙联系了个私家车，和另外两个旅客一起过境去科潘。这两人一个是英国大学刚毕业没多久的大学生，另一个是美国洛杉矶辞职来玩的。后来得知英国小哥本科读的历史，美国这位也是，并打算回去之后继续读历史研究生。我们这司机在美国费城住了11年，去年底为了治眼睛回来一年。由于高速路地理位置原因，去科潘最快的路是从萨尔瓦多先入境危地马拉，再入境洪都拉斯。之前从来没连续陆地入境两个国家的，但其实很快，全程一共四五个小时。

到了科潘趁天气很好，随便吃了点儿东西就直奔科潘玛雅遗址了，从市中心走过去一刻钟就到了。科潘王国的历史可以追溯至公元2世纪，在公元5世纪到公元9世纪达到鼎盛，然后像其他古典时期各个玛雅城邦一样，步入古典期崩溃，突然衰落并被彻底遗弃在丛林之中。入园后没走多久，就听到了很大声的鸟叫。顺着声音走过去，竟然近距离看到了好几只大金刚鹦鹉，之前在哥斯达黎加只是远远地树梢上见过。金刚鹦鹉是洪都拉斯的国鸟，在科潘王国时期也是皇室荣耀权利的象征，很多玛雅文化的文字和石刻上都能看见金刚鹦鹉的符号和标志。他们一般吃水果和坚果，看到了他们吃木瓜、芒果、菠萝。

科潘遗址比我想象中的大多了，不愧被称为“玛雅文化之都”和”新世界的雅典”。参观了两个多小时，边走边惊叹古时的玛雅文明。因为遗址坐落在丛林中，某些地方还有点儿吴哥窟的感觉。走之前还参观了一个雕塑博物馆。

回到科潘市，吃了洪都拉斯有名的大饼baleadas，就是一张大薄饼，里面抹上炒小红豆泥，酸奶酱、再撒些当地奶酪碎，折一半儿，再两面儿煎一下就好。这是最基本款的baleadas，还有升级版的，里面可以加鸡蛋、牛油果、猪肉碎、鸡肉、芭蕉等。之前男友做过很多次，这次吃感觉有点儿不一样，感觉豆泥更稀乎儿，我吃到后来每口咬下去里面的馅儿都会流出来，于是开始瞥了几眼旁边的桌子看他们怎么吃不会漏，发现他们会把半月形的大饼再折成或卷成长条，再吃。我试了试，果然不漏了。

回到旅店歇了会儿，出来市中心转转。教堂前的小公园有很多小贩和当地人在休息闲聊。我转过教堂街角时，看到一个卖小杯饮料的大姐，好奇问了句这是啥，旁边坐那儿的大哥就开始跟我介绍，还不停的说好喝，买杯尝尝吧。我好奇想尝尝，一掏腰包发现钱包不在，估计是之前会旅店换包的时候忘再另一个包里了。我跟已经给我盛好饮料的大姐说不好意思我得回去取钱包去，结果旁边这大哥二话没说，直接掏钱给大姐说帮我付了。我让他在那儿等着，我取了钱回来还他。回来后我要把钱还他，他硬是不要，就说了句欢迎我来洪都拉斯。不管在哪儿，热情的好心人无处不在。买水的时候，柜台前有个小女孩儿问这个糖多少钱，店员说5个lempiras (美金两毛钱)，我看她把糖放回去了，因为她手里只有3个lempiras。我把我剩下的些零钱给她买糖了，看她可开心了。

第二天早上去了Macaw Mountain看金刚鹦鹉和一些其他的鸟。刚到的时候看到好多金刚鹦鹉都在笼子里，心想这儿收门票，可鸟儿都在笼子里，还不如昨天在科潘遗址公园里看到野生的呢。但继续参观，发现这儿比我预想的好太多了，看到了各个种类的金刚鹦鹉、巨嘴鸟、猫头鹰、秃鹫等鸟类。而且之后还看到工作人员把一些鹦鹉放出来透风的。除了金刚鹦鹉和小鹦鹉，还有巨嘴鸟、猫头鹰、秃鹫等。肥肥的猫头鹰眼睛瞪得倍儿圆，可萌了。秃鹫侧脸儿看挺特别的，一转过来咋还面瘫了！哈。了解到这个公园最初创建是为了保护并帮助繁衍金刚鹦鹉的。他们这儿的工作人员会选取健康的雌鸟雄鸟进行繁殖，精心照顾幼鸟，保证他们能健康长大，再训练他们捕食及飞行能力，最终放飞回自然界中。在笼子里的一些鸟是他们救助回来需要养伤的。园中看到个有意思的告示，上面写着“这些鹦鹉都是最终要被放飞回大自然的，请勿跟他们对话。”参观完坐蹦蹦车回市里时发现这辆车还印着中文。

有幸赶上不同种类颜色的金刚鹦鹉被放出来，游客可以近距离接触。他们羽毛的颜色极其鲜艳，美得难以用言语表达。之后还赶上工作人员把两只鹦鹉带出去进行飞行训练，他们展翅飞翔的时候，那场面别提有多美多震撼了。在哥斯达黎加都没见着这么多鸟，在洪都拉斯一天就近距离见了这么多。希望不久就能回来去探索洪都拉斯其他的地方。

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