中美洲,  旅行,  萨尔瓦多

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7 月 1, 2022 /

年初二月去危地马拉时在萨尔瓦多转机，只在首都San Salvador待了一天，这次来打算去别地儿看看。下午快四点了从机场坐车到市里南边的公交站，上次来时认识的语伴儿朋友骑摩托来接我去西边的公交站转坐大巴车去小镇Santa Ana，我给他带了块儿从哥斯达黎加买的巧克力以表感谢。赶上下午下班高峰，车堵得厉害。到了Santa Ana天已经黑了，大巴车在镇中心没站，到终点站的时候看离我订的旅店越来越远，希望下车后可以找到出租车。下车前问另一个乘客，从这儿打车过去大概多少钱，她告诉了我个大概的价格，下车前她又跟我说她老公来接她，他正好是个出租车司机，所以可以先送我去旅店，他们再回家。车上除了她老公，还有她婆婆和一岁多的女儿，超级可爱，一直冲我边笑边挥手。她是个护士，每周去San Salvador的医院工作两三次，坐公车单程要将近两个小时。下车时，她丈夫告我的价钱比之前她说的少一半儿，他说司机一般收外国人多一倍的钱，然后他把他手机号给我，说需要出租车的话可以联系他。我还是多给了他几块钱，因为下大巴车的时候真的没看见别的出租车，要不是遇到他老婆提出可以送我，这大黑天儿的我还真不知道怎么去旅店呢。

自上次住了家庭旅店几天之后，很喜欢能和当地人交流、像家一样的感觉，所以又订了个家庭旅店。刚开始在网上把时间定错了，再改成这几天时发现已经订光了，于是联系旅店老板，她说正好还有一个双人间大房，比我订的单人间的贵些，但她只收我单人间的价钱。到了旅店，老板Amy带我进了我的房间，简洁宽敞，她又介绍我认识她的妹妹和侄子，他们都住这儿。两层大房子一共有七间客房，都住满了。吃晚饭时Amy邀我坐下跟他们一起，聊天时得知她在中学教英语，和危地马拉一样，因为学校没足够的资金和师资，这儿的学校的课分上下午两个时段，7点到1点，1点到6点。

这儿的房费已经超级便宜了，一晚7美元竟然还包早餐。吃早饭时，见着了一对儿法国情侣，他们辞职旅游三个月了，明年三月再回去。这男的曾在上海工作过三年，女的在墨西哥生活过两年，他俩是在悉尼旅游时通过共同的朋友认识的。我们搭伴儿坐公交一起去Santa Ana火山。进火山公园徒步必须跟他们的导游一起，所以我们一大群外国游客10几个人就跟着一个导游开始爬山了。一路上认识了一对儿比利时荷兰的情侣，是在波兰工作时认识的，他们也是辞职决定旅行一年。还认识了一个俄亥俄州来的美国人和一个日本来的小哥，同行的还有一对意大利情侣跟我也住同一家旅店，同样也是辞职在拉美旅行一年。遇到的人不是从南向北就是从北向南在拉美长期旅行的。我们一行人爬了一个半小时到了火山顶，看到了火山口，里面的水格外绿，还能看到硫磺冒烟儿呢，也能看到不远处的一个大湖。晚上去附近的当地人推荐的小馆子吃pupusas，又遇到了那对儿比利时荷兰情侣，就坐一桌一起吃了。

第二天上午去了昨天从火山顶看到的大湖Lago de Coatepeche。在公交站等车的时候旁边一个80多岁的老爷爷跟我闲聊，因为他眼神儿不好眼镜也坏了，拦了好几辆开过来的车，都不是他要等的4路车，于是让我帮他看着。等了一会儿我的车先到了。这辆公车是美国校车改造后的花里胡哨的公车，这种车在中美洲很常见，被外国人称作chicken bus，一般只有当地人坐，车票超级便宜，但是停的站也比较多，较费时。车上也会一路上放着超大声、超热情的拉美歌曲。车上除了司机，有时还有个在车门口吆喝收车票钱的。停站时一般还会上来些卖水果零食的小贩，跟着坐一站下站再下去。长途车上也经常有这样的。

上车后我坐在第二排，前面第一排坐了俩姑娘，收车票的小胖哥时不时地跟其中靠窗的姑娘挤眉弄眼地暧昧搭讪，那姑娘戴着口罩，看不清她的面部表情，但感觉有点儿爱搭不理的，心想这胖哥估计看这姑娘挺好看的，第一排离得近顺便聊聊，我就时不时瞟几眼，希望他不会太骚扰这姑娘。过了会儿靠过道的姑娘下车了，小胖哥直接一屁股坐靠窗姑娘边儿上了，但姑娘还是不是很给面儿没太怎么搭话。过了半个小时，姑娘下车了，我心想太好了，终于不用继续受骚扰了。结果小胖哥也跟着下去了，姑娘转过身，摘了口罩，小胖哥搂着姑娘小腰儿，来了个五秒钟的热吻。嘿，合着这根本就不是陌生人骚扰啊。小胖哥心满意足的回到车上做本职工作卖车票了。这个故事得出一个结论：口罩这东西太影响交流了，妨碍人们解读面部表情，从而产生误会。哈哈。

坐车到了大湖的终点站，下车后走了会儿，发现其实应该提早在大湖的游客区就下了，因为这儿根本没有湖景。走着走着，路过一辆收垃圾的小皮卡，司机停下来问我这是要去哪儿，因为这附近都是当地人住宅区，没有游客来这里的。我问他是否知道这儿附近哪儿能看到湖景，他说前面没多远有个地儿，可以载我一程。上去后没多会儿他就下车了，问路边看门儿的是否可以让我进去走到湖边，门口明明写着私人领地，但看门的说没问题进来吧。皮卡司机说他要往前开到头儿继续收垃圾，但完了会掉个头儿回来，可以顺便捎上我去游客区。我就赶忙走到大湖边看了一眼，往外走的时候看皮卡司机已经回来了，还进来迎我来了。他说从这儿可以坐小船去中间的小岛，岛上有人住。出来上车后，司机说这一路上路过的湖景度假房都是萨尔瓦多最有钱的人买的，一般都是政客，要一两百万，对于这儿的消费水平那简直就是天价了。司机送我到了大湖岸边的游客区，我就下车了，在湖边的一个小馆子随便点了点儿东西吃，看看湖景。

坐车回到市里去市中心逛了逛，买了一大袋儿红毛丹20几个才1美元，这在美国得估计至少得10几美元了，我得在这儿吃够了再走。下午又去了昨晚去的Pupusas馆子吃，点完进去上了个厕所，出来发现桌子都满了，看到个昨天爬火山时聊了几句的南非小哥，于是跟他拼桌一起吃。南非小哥之前是在银行做金融的，四个月前辞职，卖了车卖了房，来中美洲旅行，今天是在萨尔瓦多的最后一天了，明天去危地马拉。

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