亚洲,  旅行,  泰国

普吉镇, 甲米

11 月 23, 2018 /

来泰国前除了曼谷，大家好像都去过普吉岛：海滩、人妖表演、酒吧等。感觉我对这些都没啥兴趣，于是决定从曼谷飞到普吉，再从普吉镇坐大巴去甲米Krabi。到了普吉镇，先去长途车站买了中午去甲米的车票，这儿连个行李寄存的地儿都没有，这大中午的我只能在背着大包在镇上暴走了一个小时。这里18世纪那会儿的早期移民都是福建的锡矿工，20世纪欧洲葡萄牙采矿公司进入，建筑风格受其影响。听说镇上一大半人都是福建人后裔。街上有很多画廊、酒吧、咖啡馆等，颇具氛围和情调。从普吉镇去甲米坐了三个小时车，再打车去青旅。

刚到甲米青旅房间，我上铺有个人在睡觉，等我收拾好打算出门时，上铺醒了，随便一聊发现她是加州来的姑娘，她说泰餐吃腻了，要不要一起去吃墨西哥菜。我也正有此意，这家青旅旁边的墨西哥馆子还真挺正宗的，老板娘嫁了个墨西哥人，于是一起开了这家馆子。青旅上铺这姑娘是菲律宾裔美国人，以前是个厨师，也当过咖啡馆经理，工作压力太大辞职了。聊天的时候三句不离她女朋友，一起八年了是真爱啊！吃完墨西哥菜她带我去逛甲米的Maharaj夜市，这是来泰国以来去的最棒的一个夜市了，见了好多从没见过的食物，比如zalacca红色心状的像荔枝的水果和sea grapes海葡萄。只可惜吃完晚饭已经吃不下别的了。就为了明天晚上再来吃，青旅明天得再住一晚！

第二天早上在青旅楼下的穆斯林餐馆吃了个早饭，然后参团去宏岛一日游，这里简直美翻了！宏岛由两个主岛构成，退潮时，两岛之间会露出一条沙滩路连接两岛，很神奇。海水清澈见底，浮潜能看到小鱼。这个一日游的船上有四个帅气的韩国欧巴，都是消防员，还有两个新加坡人，英语中文韩文都会说，真让我汗颜。下船后第一次这么近距离接触羽毛这么美的大公鸡，跟摸我家猫一样摸它，超温顺。

回青旅又认识了几个新朋友，智利阿根廷西班牙的，除了刚开始能简单对几个回合的话之后，他们仨就噼里啪啦地用西语交流起来了，我就只有干听着还基本上听不懂的份儿了。晚上又去了旁边的那个夜市，吃了荷叶咖喱鱼、绿酱饼、椰子甜品和咖喱米线。

在甲米的第三天成为了来泰国一个多礼拜以来最累但最有意思的一天。青旅上铺姑娘推荐我去Khao Ngon Nak国家公园。但一个人租出租车太贵了，又找不着人拼车，甚至想到租摩托车自己开过去，但试骑了一下，感觉能力有限、不想冒险就放弃了，所以直到昨天半夜还纠结是否要去这个国家公园。如果不去这个公园，那就只能去海滩了。但因为对海滩实在没太多兴趣，最后还是决定去爬山吧。大早起来本来是打算去街上找出租车砍砍价的，结果去的路上各种阴差阳错，费老半天劲儿最后跟摩托车司机以三分之一的价格谈好了。头盔都带上准备走了，突然想起来身上现金泰铢不够了，去旁边取款机取，死活告我密码不对取不出来，试了两张卡好几个取款机都不行，给美国的银行打电话人家感恩节没人上班。突然想起来身上有些人民币和美元现金，找了个兑换货币的地儿换了些泰铢。真是救急了啊！摩托车狂奔了将近40公里到了国家公园，每个人进去前都要签字留电话记录入园时间，管理员再三叮嘱安全问题。我的摩托车司机大叔本来是要在门口等我四五个小时后出来送我回去的，结果他执意要带我一起爬山，英语沟通极其困难，他一直说“danger, danger”，他担心我安危我还挺感动的，心想有个当地人向导也挺好！

开始爬了没多久，就遇见了个多伦多的小美女，也是一个人，就一起搭伴儿爬山。她是菲律宾裔的加拿大多伦多人，在读会计专业。我这摩托大叔每隔几分钟就问我俩Are you ok?，刚爬了不到半个小时，他就满头大汗速度明显下降，不停地说Sorry了。我看他体力实在不行了，跟他开玩笑说真的不需要跟我们上去，不用担心，我会平安下山付你车费的。他估计也没太听懂，还是很担心的样子，叫我俩注意安全。

上山一路上听到好几次诡异刺耳的鸟叫声，丛林中不知是什么动物跑来跑去弄得树枝响，看到了小时候课本上的猪笼草，还有奇特的像长在外星球的大树干和树根。远景总让我想起桂林山水。不过感觉摩托大叔还是有点儿小题大做了，这山真不算啥，登山难度比黄山华山什么的差远了。

我们爬了4公里左右到山顶上终于看到了之前网上看到可以拍照留影的那块儿山悬石了！欣赏风景休息放空的时候摩托大叔竟然出现了。他为了我们的安危，拼了老命竟然也爬到山顶上了。大叔特别内向，不善言辞，也不太懂英语，给他水跟吃的，他死活也不要。

午餐休息好之后下山，大叔一直带路，中途停下来让我俩先走。我俩也没跟他客气，以为他能追上来就没等他，我们刚下山就开始下雨了，等了好久都不见大叔人影，门口管理员不停问我你的向导哪儿去了！？过了一刻钟终于看见他下山了，他浑身都湿透了。我觉得他早上拉上我的时候肯定没想到会累成狗吧。我心里真过意不去，要多付他些钱，他推脱半天才接受，还说明天会送我去大巴车站去机场。我特别诚心地跟他说谢谢说了不下十遍！一路上遇到的好人太多了。

虽然没能留在清迈看最壮观的天灯，但还是有幸在离开泰国之前在甲米镇经历了他们一年一度的传统节日水灯节Loi Krathong，正好跟感恩节赶上同一天了。泰国人在水灯节当天将亲手制作的水灯放入河流中，以寄托心中的愿望和祝福，也相信疾病痛苦会随水飘去。当地人手好巧啊，看见男女老少都会用芭蕉叶芭蕉杆和各种小花做水灯。

庆祝节日当然少不了河边的夜市啦。在这儿吃了糯米饼、咖喱虾饭、西瓜、布丁gamache和椰子甜品。

今早打算去Tiger Cave Temple，心想让不认识的出租车司机赚钱还不如让摩托车大叔赚，于是给他打电话来接我，为了感谢他昨天的辛劳，我帮他买了早餐，结果他又誓死不吃，让我留着爬上山再吃。摩托车去加油站加油的时候，他倒给我买了瓶橙汁，我说你不吃我给你买的早餐我就不要这橙汁，他还是不要我的，硬把橙汁塞我书包里了。我说咱俩合个影，他还特不好意思把头扭过去了。到了寺庙，大叔吸取了昨天的经验教训，今天果断不跟我爬上去了。我低估了这个Tiger Cave Temple，要爬1200多阶45度以上甚至60度的台阶。开始爬的前五分钟感觉全身就已经湿透了。在这儿竟然还看见济公雕像了，不知道济公跟泰国有啥关系。上山的时候可能太早了，猴子还没起床呢，但下山的时候一路都是猴子，感觉比峨眉山的猴子友善很多。

  • 绿豆饼
  • 穆斯林炒饭
  • 番石榴

把我送回青旅之后，大叔跟我约了时间去镇里的大巴站坐大巴去普吉机场。我反正只有一个大背包，摩托车也能坐。结果一出门发现摩托车大叔开了辆皮卡接我来了。我知道多给他钱他也不要，突然想起来我包里有一个本来要给一个泰国朋友带的中国的明信片，但没见成，就决定给这位大叔啦，解决了我两天交通问题呢。虽然语言基本不通，但下车的时候我还挺舍不得的，希望大叔一切都好。因为马上要离开泰国了，想买件甲米纪念T恤，但泰铢不够了，感谢中午在街上被我拦下的俩四川人，给他们转微信人民币，从他们那儿弄了点儿最后半天用的泰铢，真的是帮了我大忙了。甲米镇基本见不着几个中国人的。

明天一大早的飞机，今晚在普吉机场旁边住一晚。没想到海滩很近，走十分钟就到了，还有个Sirinat国家公园，跟青旅同屋认识的有意思的德国柏林姐姐去海滩看日落，她在南美洲生活了很长时间，不喜欢有固定的生活住所的生活。望着大海，突然以为自己回到了南加州。

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