瓦哈卡第四周日常
最近去了个语伴交流会,大部分去的都是英语为母语者。坐我旁边的是个美国小哥儿,听说我是中国人之后,开始跟我说起了流利的中文。他是田纳西人,父母跟我还是在美国的大学的校友。他说他大学时只上了一个学期的中文课,之后自己对中文感兴趣,一直自学,考了HSK五级,“996“等流行词全知道,还说自己是个“鸡蛋“-外面是白的,但里面是黄的。他疫情前去过上海几个月,明年初还要去台湾三个月。他大学从历史专业转成数学专业,现在在硅谷的一个创业公司做程序员工作,公司都没有实体办公室,所以都是远程工作。
周二见了个10岁就搬去美国了的台湾嘉义姑娘,她在南加州Orange长大,离我之前住的地儿很近。她大学在湾区伯克利大学读的神经科学,本想学医,但没多久就转成了生物数据分析专业,读了研究生。现在在西雅图的一个大保险公司做数据分析,但她并不喜欢自己的工作,只是为了赚钱而已。她们公司近几年都允许远程工作,但要求必须在美国境内,她这次是请了两周假纯旅游。我跟她说我最近遇到了很多数字游民都是偷偷不跟公司说自己不在美国工作,根本就没事儿。她说她也要慢慢尝试边旅游边在网上工作。她跟我年龄相仿,一个人也喜欢独自旅游。她也不确定以后想在哪儿、想做什么工作,可能回台湾,可能在美国,也可能去别的国家。我俩去逛了个美术馆,因为她在这儿只有三天时间,我推荐她并陪她去逛了几个我很喜欢的区。
上周认识的教厨艺课的朋友请我去参加他这周三的厨艺课。要做的食物就是上周已经去吃的现成儿的。去之前朋友叮嘱我要装作不认识他,因为毕竟其他人都是付钱了的。除了我,还有另外三个人。一个是加拿大的大学教授,研究加拿大土著人,也是个有机农夫,带着老婆和两个一岁和三岁孩子来墨西哥住几个月。他也会说中文,因为曾在台湾生活过很多年。另外两个女的是圣地亚哥来的,俩人是读博时的同学,现在也都是大学老师。年龄大些的那个以前是报纸的调查研究记者,曾调查墨西哥Tijuana那边的毒品问题。我们先一起去当地市场买了食材,然后去朋友家的厨房一起上厨艺课。我们用不同的辣椒(干的、新鲜的、和在火上直接烤焦的)和不同的西红柿(红的和绿的)做了几种不同的salsa酱。之后带着煮好的玉米去几个街区外的专门研磨食物的小店去磨玉米。这里不同的机器是专门磨不同的食物的:玉米、咖啡豆、可可豆等。回来之后用磨好的玉米面压了玉米饼、加奶酪、西葫芦花儿等,再加上不同的salsa酱,做了quesadilla。
感恩节这周工作比较闲,趁着周四周五没网课,周三晚上临时决定坐10点的车去Oaxaca州最有名的海滩Puerto Escondido。这是坐的最难受的一次隔夜车了。这是个小巴车,座位空间很小,从Oaxaca市到海滩一路的盘山路,左摇右晃。最受不了的是司机把空调开得超级低,一路跟冰窖似的,还好带了件长袖穿,但还是很冷。而且司机还一路放着很吵的音乐给他自己提神儿,真是服了。
开了不到七个小时,基本没睡,到了Puerto Escondido才早上五点,天儿还黑着。我走到旅店的时候,门还没开,在门口大石头上坐了半个小时,旁边一个住家的门开了,我问里面小哥儿这旅店前台几点有人,他说要九点呢。我借他家厕所用了下,问他这附近有啥可以逛的,他说他马上要打车去市中心一个馆子喝咖啡,说我要是去市中心的话可以带上我。反正我也没事儿干,于是跟他一块儿去喝了个咖啡。跟他聊天得知他是我之前去过的那个教堂里祭祀杀鸡的小镇San Juan Chamula的人,他十岁出头的时候就搬到了这里,然后一年后父母回了老家,他一个人在这儿生活。他现在制作并卖他们老家的特色手工艺品。喝完咖啡他顺路带我逛了旁边的两个小海滩。
之前在Oaxaca搭伴去玩的巴西小哥前几天也来这儿了,我路过他青旅去蹭网的时候,看一姑娘在前台需要帮忙,西语没说太清楚,我帮她沟通了一下。得知她昨晚在海边游泳的时候把包儿放在沙滩上了,里面有钱、手机、卡等东西。结果被人偷了,全都丢了。她需要旅店的邮寄地址,这样美国的银行可以重新给她寄借记卡。她也会说中文,但是在美国出生长大的。她说她还会在墨西哥两三个礼拜,但想到她可能短期内收不到信用卡、现金不够用的,我主动提出可以取钱给她,她网上可以给我转美元。她说她需要的话再联系我。她加了我脸书,因为手机丢了,只能用笔记本电脑发消息联系我。
回到旅店终于可以入住了,环境还不错,竟然还有个小泳池。没多会儿,刚认识那姑娘就发信息过来说还得请我帮忙给她换钱。我们约了在个取款机见面,我取了墨西哥比索给她,然后一块儿溜达到了Zicatela海滩。上午十点多就已经超级暴晒了,在海滩上走了一会儿就晒得不行了。于是坐当地特有的交通方式:小敞篷卡车去市中心吃饭。跟她聊天得知她才23岁,在马里兰长大,现在住西雅图,也在远程工作,几年前因为动物及环保原因,成了素食主义者。
晚上去了主海滩,这周末这儿会有个钓鱼大赛。这儿还经常有很多冲浪的。
一周前在去石化瀑布山路上的小卡车里,坐在旁边的一个意大利姑娘提到了个她之前待了一个月的海边儿的小镇Chacahua,在Puerto Escondido往西大概一百公里,当时在地图上马克了。她说那儿特别原始,尚未被开发,她特别喜欢那儿。我本没打算去,但在Puerto Escondido刚遇到的那个美国华裔小姑娘跟我说她第二天也会去那儿。反正我在这儿待了一天觉得也够了,于是也决定第二天去。问了几个一日团,说不够四个人不发团,看来只能自己坐车去了。那个华裔小姑娘跟我分享了如何自己去,有点儿复杂,要换好几次交通工具,怪不得这儿比较原始没被过度开发呢。
第二天一早,我先坐了个小巴到了El Zapotalito小镇,跟我一块儿下车的还有另一个同去Chacahua的姑娘,于是我俩一起先坐出租到了码头,本来看网上说的是还得坐个敞篷车再换小慢船,但需要等很多乘客比较慢,现在除了我俩都没别人。这儿正好有个船夫要去Chacahua接客人的,于是我俩砍价到了个很值的价格,租这个快船去。跟这姑娘聊,得知她是哥伦比亚人Cali人,但现在住在美国,也是从湾区来的,在奥克兰工作,是个非营利组织的somatic治疗师,我从来没听说过这个词儿,于是好奇地问了她关于这个职业和治疗法的问题。她说她以前在哥伦比亚的时候通过普通的谈话治疗法帮助PTSD创伤后应激障碍患者或抑郁症患者,但效果不大。后来接触到somatic治疗法,于是自己做了很多研究,决定来旧金山的一个大学读研。她说这种疗法是个非主流小众的疗法,但像加州这么个比较开放的地方,也有越来越多的治疗师开始研究应用这种治疗法。她跟我说了个大概,但具体有不同的分支不同的疗法。主要是通过和患者聊他们的情感、感受、身体的反应等来帮助他们治疗创伤,还会用到声音震动、冥想、触摸穴位等不同的疗法。第一次听说这个疗法,挺有意思的。
坐船时船夫还偶尔停下来给我们介绍这儿的鸟儿和一些路过的小岛,还穿过了一大片红树林,看到了很多鸟。我们坐船坐了45分钟到了目的地,这儿特别小,整个镇只有两百多人,只有一个小超市和一个药店。听说在这儿不用提前订住的地儿,可以在海滩上睡吊床、住帐篷、cabaña简易小木屋或者旅店(很少,只有几家)。哥伦比亚姑娘带我到了她提前问好的一家,这儿有很多搭帐篷吊床的背包客,如果是自己的帐篷是可以免费露营的,但条件是要在他们的小饭馆吃饭。蚊子太多,我还没到能吃苦到能睡吊床帐篷的地步,正好他们还有间小木屋,也有蚊帐。放了包儿出去在海边儿吃了新鲜的海鱼。这个哥伦比亚姑娘说她会在这儿待一整周,她的假期是纯来放空的,除了在海边晒太阳游泳,每天什么都不干。午饭过后联系上了那个华裔女孩儿,她说她跟另外几个人晚上会租船去看这儿有名的海里的会发光的浮游生物,必须有五个人才能租辆船。我跟她去了组织的女孩儿那儿确定,但感觉不太靠谱,时间有点儿晚。于是我自己去码头问,被告知不用凑人,晚上八点直接来码头就行,肯定能凑够五个人发船。于是那个华裔姑娘也打算跟我一起八点去码头。
这儿有很多游客是专门来这儿冲浪的,真佩服他们在大浪尖上自由地冲浪的样子。我下海游了两下,就被几个大浪拍回岸上了,真不夸张,浪大的都进不去海。这儿也超热无比,在太阳底下晒十分钟就有点儿受不了了,于是坐海滩上的小棚子阴凉下待了一下午。晚上跟那个华裔小姑娘吃饭,她说她租了个冲浪板,才能下海游泳,她在海上漂了一整个下午,全身都晒红了。她说她很喜欢在海里游泳,小时候经常在游泳队比赛。她也会在这儿待好几天,不过这儿的网很差劲儿,不知道她怎么在网上工作。电压也不太给力,我的小木屋里如果开了电扇,灯就很暗基本不亮,如果手机在充电,灯也不亮,只能用一个电器。
晚上八点我俩一起去了码头,果真船夫说还有另外俩人,四个人还是每个人收一样的费用。之前在网上见过一些会发光的浮游生物的照片,整个水域都是发蓝光的,看着可神奇了。船开出去了一会儿,虽然周围一片漆黑,但把手放水里滑动的时候,就能看到蓝色的发光的小浮游生物,远处看到从水里越出水面的鱼也能看到蓝光,很神奇。我们下去游泳滑动胳膊的时候,感觉更神奇了。可惜光线太暗,手机根本照不出来当时的效果。这儿真是没有空气污染和光污染,星空特别美,全是星星,甚至隐约能看到银河。
在Chacahua的第二天一早,坐小船去了河对岸的另一边儿,听说可以爬到小山上的灯塔那儿看景,挺美的。回来后拿上背包儿准备离开,因为太早了,估计找不着别的人一块儿坐直达的船离开,所以只能先坐车再换小船。路上被个当地人叫住问我要不要一起直接坐船走,因为已经有两个人了,于是我等了他们一刻钟一起坐船走。这是对儿荷兰情侣,问我哪儿的人之后,这个荷兰小哥儿开始跟我说中文,他大学上了一个学期的中文课,跟家人去中国旅游过一次,去美国俄亥俄的一个大学也上了一个学期中文课,然后跟学校交换项目去了北京半年。本来2020年要再去深圳的,但因为疫情就没去成。他在荷兰读的人工智能,工作了两年,是软件工程师。但最近刚决定去读博,学习神经科学。他女朋友正在读心理学的研究生,也去过很多国家旅游。他们之后会去我之前住的那个小城San Cristóbal,给他们推荐了那个中国面馆和别的好吃的。
回到Puerto Escondido,正好跟他们拼出租车一起去Punta Zicatela,一起吃了饭之后跟他们告别,我去了旁边的海滩,这儿全是来晒太阳冲浪的游客,整个氛围很像南加州的一些海边小镇,有电视的饭馆里挤满了看世界杯的人群。
我继续上路去下一站Mazunte,上了个大公交车,坐了一个多小时,换了个小敞篷车,到了Mazunte。刚下车就感觉到了这个海滩小镇的极其嬉皮的氛围。之前还考虑晚上要不要住这儿,但逛了半个小时就逛完了,决定继续搭车去下一个地儿Zipolite。这儿更小,在海滩上走了几步就发现这儿是个天体海滩,随处可见半裸或全裸的人们,有的趴在沙滩上晒太阳,有的就在海滩上大摇大摆地走。这几天下来,我更加意识到我对海滩真是无感,海滩完全不是我的菜。我对躺海滩上晒太阳没兴趣,也不喜欢在海里游泳,不喜欢浑身黏糊糊到处都是沙子的感觉。所以这几天在海滩真是待够了。
问了当地人,说回Oaxaca要去一个小城Pochutla换车。一车上全是下班回家的当地人,座儿都满了,除了中间站着的人,还有拉着敞篷车后面的把手,身体在车外悬着的乘客。还看见好几个在拿着大砍刀上车的,估计是干农活儿的。整个车里挤满了人,特别热,但还好通风。车里的人会给刚上车的妇女儿童让座,刚上来个小孩儿,旁边的姑娘主动抱着她坐了一路,看起来很辛苦。特别挤的时候挤到旁边的人也会开个玩笑一笑而过,有时偶尔跟他们眼神碰上了,他们也会给我个微笑。想想这些当地人每天都是这么辛苦地往返去工作赚钱,太不容易了,这让我更加珍惜自己的生活状态。虽然这车坐得一点儿都不舒服,但我当时还挺享受这个经历的。
从Zipolite上这个小敞篷车时我还都不确定我是今晚就回Oaxaca,还是在换车的那个小城住一晚好好睡一觉明早再回。到了Pochutla时大概下午五点多,感觉这儿没啥特别的,不值得住一晚。但又不想坐六个小时的车半夜到Oaxaca,于是看地图上马克过一个之前好些人推荐去的Huatulco,在地图上看起来并不远,既然都到这儿了就顺便去了吧,趁天还没黑坐车去那儿,可以在那儿住一晚。上车之后问旁边的大叔多久到,他说一个小时。很奇怪车并没走地图上看起来更近的那条路,但我当时也没在意,心想估计是山路不好走,走更绕一点儿但好开的路吧。但过了一个小时了,心想怎么还没到,打开地图一看,已经过了我标记的地方,问旁边大叔,他说我标的是Huatulco山里的小镇,但这车去的是游客更多的Huatulco海边儿小城,这儿很多地儿都有Huatulco这个名字。哦,原来是我标错地儿了。总之去的是对的Huatulco就好。
到站之后大叔跟我一块儿下车,指给我明天坐车去Oaxaca的车站,还告我哪儿有旅店可以住。这次我少有地没提前在网上找旅店,走了几条街找旅店住,因为是周末,好几个已经客满了。终于找着一个,只剩一间比较贵的双人间了,但之后前台小姑娘同意就收我单人间的价格。坐了一天车浑身是汗,终于能洗个澡了,还好这儿有空调,大晚上外面还有30度呢。在沙发客软件上跟个当地人一起去吃了顿不错的海鲜。他是Tijuana人,但很小就和家人搬去洛杉矶了,住了15年,每周基本都会和家人开车回Tijuana过周末。他跟我教育工作背景类似,读的语言学,以前在大学教西语和英语,还教艺术学。最近两三年开始在网上从事和语言有关的工作,现在从事多语言编辑排版校对工作,对很多语言多少有些基本了解。他还推荐我明天去一个海边儿的灯塔看景。
第二天早上去了灯塔,海边的悬崖很美。绕到灯塔后面,看到了一群穿着统一的标有“国家公园”的衣服的人,都架着望远镜往海里看。一个人跟我说可以看到鲸鱼和海豚,然后把他的望远镜递给我让我看,果真看到了几只。他说他们是为国家公园工作的,每周末都会来看鲸鱼和海豚,拍照录像,用于出版,以唤起大家对动物环境保护意识。我之后又去了旁边的两个小海滩,同样待了几分钟就觉得够了。我意识到如果是在海边山上徒步,远远地从高处可以看到大海,我还是很享受的,总之得有山。
在海边一个推销出海团的大叔跟我的搭话挺有意思的。大叔:“你是韩国人吗?“我:“不是,我是中国人。“大叔:“哦,那你说日语?”他们真的很多人对亚洲的几个国家区分不开。
在海边儿这几天,必须吃海鲜啊。这几天吃了鱼、虾、章鱼。中午坐车回Oaxaca,听取朋友建议,把座位换到最前面了,因为大部分都是山路,坐后面容易晕车。旁边姑娘一上车就吃了晕车药,除了中途停车休息两次,她在车上睡了一路。下午三点我们停车在山里路边小饭馆吃午饭,上车开出去没多久,后面有位大叔晕车,让司机停车,他得下车吐一下。不管怎样,白天坐车比来时的隔夜车强多了。
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