北美洲,  墨西哥,  旅行

瓦哈卡第二周日常

11 月 13, 2022 /

周一去了Oaxaca的大植物园，进去必须跟导游走，限25人一个导游。植物园里有各种高大的仙人掌，像在沙漠里一样。下午去了个城市徒步游，团里的其他游客基本都是第一二天刚到的这儿的，导游带我们去的地方虽然我自己都去过了，但了解到了很多之前不知道的知识。Oaxaca州有16种原住民文化，最大的种族和语言叫Zapotec，墨西哥历史上最有名的总统Benito Juarez就是来自这里的。Oaxaca整个城市1987年成为UNESCO联合国教科文组织世界遗产，因此当地社会运动分子争取到在市中心历史城区，不允许建连锁快餐店，怪不得没看见麦当劳肯德基什么的呢。晚上在大教堂门口又碰上了个庆祝游行活动。

周四一大早走了半个小时去了之前在Netflix上Street Food纪录片里看到的一家小店。这家店在市中心以外西南边的Abasto区的当地大市场里，以memela出名。听说最好早上9点前去，否则之后人特别多排大队，中午12点就关门了。这里的两种salsa酱味道都很赞，黑酱特别辣。可以选择最普通的上面只有奶酪，或者加个摊鸡蛋，或者加肉（大排骨或者牛肉片），确实好吃。在大市场里还买了黄色的西瓜回家尝尝。

Abasto区和市中心感觉很不一样，只有当地人，一个游客都没看见，因此物价也低很多。大市场里啥都有卖的，还看到了个人用磨可可豆的大机器现磨做巧克力。 周二在沙发客软件上认识了个阿根廷姑娘，跟我同龄。六年前跟她前夫和女儿买了个小房车，从阿根廷一路开到墨西哥，途中在南美中美很多国家旅居，疫情时开到墨西哥，由于各种原因，和前夫和女儿分开，他们留在墨西哥城，但她自己继续在墨西哥各地旅居，现在在这儿已经三年了。她旅居过程中卖过自己编织的手工艺品，卖过做成明信片的自己照的相片，还做过各种临时工，现在在青旅工作换宿，同时还在学英语。周四再见面的时候约在她青旅楼顶天台，聊了会儿天，然后一起去了离她青旅不远的另一个小街摊儿尝piedrazo，也是从Netflix上Street Food纪录片里看到的。这不是个在市中心常能见到的小吃，所以一起特意去尝鲜。piedrazo将烤的很硬的面包放在一个小塑料袋里，加上用醋、盐、辣椒面腌制的洋葱、酸白菜、土豆、胡萝卜，上面在撒点儿奶酪。听起来很奇怪，味道确实也跟大部分墨西哥街摊儿食物不同，特别酸。阿根廷姑娘吃了两口就不吃了，我本着不浪费食物的原则，把剩下的给消灭了。我还在这儿尝个从没喝过的饮料agua de chilacayota，是由一种白色的水果做的，但不知道中英文名字。

周五家附近开始了个为期三天的面包展卖会，里面有各个当地有名的面包房来参展，进去可以免费品尝很多不同的面包，走一圈就吃得半饱了。下午阿根廷姑娘带我去了个徒步群组织的爬上活动，徒步大队里有些本地人，也有很多在这儿长期居住的外国人。本来以为就是去我上次已经去了的Cerro del Fortín的露天大礼堂而已，结果穿过大礼堂继续往山上爬了好久，到顶的时候正好能看到日落，很美。

离Oaxaca市中心半小时车程的玛雅文化古迹遗址Monte Albán，另一个联合国教科文组织世界遗产。前几天在沙发客软件上发布了这个计划，看有没有可以一起搭伴儿去的。最后确定去的是个哥伦比亚波哥大的姑娘，她还带上了她法国的表妹和她表妹的男友。这个哥伦比亚姑娘是个土木工程师，请了两月的假来旅游，跟她法国的表妹在墨西哥会合一起旅游。他们当晚会坐夜车去我之前待了俩月的城市San Cristóbal，我给他们分享了些好玩好吃的地方。

前几天在沙发客软件上发布组织了去古迹遗址之后，有个中国姑娘发信息联系我，她因为要上西语课，参加不了那个活动，但约我周末一块儿出来见。在拉美这边儿很少能遇到长期旅居的中国人，想想一定也是个有意思的人。果真跟之前在哥斯达黎加青旅认识的鼠鼠姐似的，她也是个有故事的非典型中国姑娘。周六上午约着去看一个室外的民族歌舞庆祝表演，在街对面的咖啡馆门口见。大老远的我看到个姑娘坐咖啡馆街对面，但瞟了一眼，看一身墨西哥当地人穿着，皮肤黝黑的，完全没想到其实就是她。我俩穿过看表演的人群，找了远点儿靠墙的有阴凉儿的台阶坐下，安静点儿适合聊天儿。

这姑娘是天津人，不到30。在上海上大学时就组织了个登山户外俱乐部，认识了很多有意思的人，开了自己的小旅行社。刚毕业就申了working holiday工作假期签证去了澳大利亚一年，做过中餐馆的服务员、销售、旅店前台等各种工作。之后回国又申请了去美国当互惠生au pair，住在当地寄宿家庭，帮着照顾孩子，包吃包住，还能拿到基本生活费。因为男友在迈阿密和签证问题，去年底开始在墨西哥城租了个房，墨西哥城迈阿密两边儿跑。在墨西哥的时候也到处旅游。她现在在网上做代购，国内还有投资，基本财务自由了。她打了好几年泰拳，也热爱旅游、去过30多个国家。聊到旅游，我俩在沙发客软件上能看到共同好友，特别巧的是我俩有两个共同的沙发主，一个是新加坡的那个奇葩沙发主，另一个是美国俄勒冈波特兰的一个沙发主。想想我俩曾在同个屋子的同一张床上待过几晚，就觉得世界真的太小了。

这姑娘的谷歌地图跟我的一样，上面也马克了各种当地好吃好玩的地儿。坐台阶儿上聊了两个多小时候之后，她带我去了附近山上有个顶层露台的饭馆，景色特别好，喝了个咖啡。然后一块儿去吃了日本拉面，之后在街上逛了几家艺术画廊。因为这姑娘爱照相，少有的也有人能帮我照几张街拍。一整个下午就压马路，边走边聊。晚上去当地市场吃东西，她想吃鸡爪儿了，她当地朋友告他一个摊位有卖鸡爪儿的，菜单上没有，只卖给当地人。我自己回家路上路过另一家Netflix上Street Food纪录片里介绍过的一家街摊儿，吃了empanada和quesadilla，味道不错。

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