大洋洲,  旅行,  澳大利亚

墨尔本

3 月 13, 2019 /

一大早从悉尼坐飞机到墨尔本，这儿的沙发主来机场接我，他的腿脚不太好，前一阵儿刚做了膝盖手术。接我到了Fitzroy他家，这儿是墨尔本的近郊，以波西米亚文化出名，很有艺术气息，街头巷尾都是巨型壁画。比起悉尼，墨尔本更是我的菜，这是个特别多元化的城市。沙发主带我去Queen Victoria Market给他妈妈买早饭买菜，我在这儿找到了东南亚街市的感觉。有街头艺人表演、农夫市场、专门卖肉、海鲜、酒、甜食糕点的摊子，还有特别的土耳其主题的美食文化节，跟可爱的土耳其老爷爷合了影。在这儿尝了burek，是菠菜奶酪卷，沙发主还强烈推荐我常常这儿American Donut Kitchen餐车卖的有名的多纳圈。

正好这周末三天还赶上了Moomba节日，就是家长带小孩儿去玩各种游艺项目的节日。Federation Square里比名字听起来酷多了，有好几个免费的展览：游戏、视频、电影艺术的。最酷的就是一个叫The Clock的影视艺术：一个24小时不间断放映的由几千个影视作品中出现的手表、钟表、时间的片段所拼接而成的影视艺术作品。这些关于时间的片段被天衣无缝地剪辑在一起，神奇的是里面出现的时间跟现实中的时间是完全同步的。

墨尔本的中国城还挺大的，当地的华人比比皆是，中文标识也随处可见。 Hosier Ln一条街上全是街头涂鸦艺术，挺震撼的，但我还是更喜欢马来西亚槟城的壁画。下午走着走着就开始一直下雨了，去维多利亚州立图书馆逛了逛，里面有很多在自习读书的大学生。

晚上见了去年东南亚之旅第一站在清迈青旅同屋、很聊得来的美国丹佛小哥，正好这几天他跟我同时在墨尔本。他是个超级挑食的人，很多东西都不吃，也没有尝过很多来自不同国家文化的美食。当时在清迈跟他去夜市时给他介绍了一堆食物名称。我都不敢相信他前一阵儿才在缅甸第一次吃印度菜。他还挺爱吃的，于是昨晚再去吃了印度菜，结果他竟然不吃洋葱，服务员得去专门问大厨什么菜里没有洋葱。之后去附近的Docklands码头溜达了会儿。

  • burek 菠菜奶酪卷
  • 多纳圈

我俩分享了很多这半年来各自的旅行经历和故事，发现一路上遇到的大部分旅行者都很类似，想法跟三观越来越一致。我离开越南之后他正好也去了越南，在北部大农村搭便车七八天，遇到了很多特别热情让他搭车并接待他的当地人。说着我便突发奇想说咱俩应该搭便车去大洋路，我也正好跟他学习学习搭便车的技巧，没准儿去了新西兰可以用上，哈哈。

第二天早上沙发主借了我辆自行车，Fitzroy的街头涂鸦随处可见。本来就打算在附近骑一骑，结果一骑就骑到了市区，上下坡还挺多。路过了East Melbourne、National Tennis Center和植物园。骑到植物园的时候大概骑了两个多小时，感觉自从有了新加坡植物园的经历，最近几年都不想进植物园了。准备往回骑的时候正好看见了好像有个什么活动，一问说是劳动节（只有在维多利亚州）长周末的墨尔本特有的一年一度的Moomba游行。我就停下来找了个地儿等着看。参加游行的有各种文化、种族、肤色、职业、年龄的人们，自然少不了中国华人代表团的舞龙舞狮的啦！世界人民大团结万岁！之后又去了Yarra Bend Park。

晚上去沙发主推荐的Fitzroy顶楼酒吧看了一眼，然后又见了丹佛小哥，我俩一起去吃法式薄饼，我看到有非甜口儿的法式薄饼的时候特别诧异，他也诧异说你竟然没吃过咸口儿的法式薄饼，我竟然也有被他鄙视没吃过的食物的时候。他点了个甜的，我点了个蘑菇菠菜羊奶酪的，还真好吃。吃完跟当时清迈鲜果汁组合的北京小哥视频，勾起了很多有意思的回忆。丹佛小哥每次自拍都要拍一张正常的、一张严肃的，绷着脸不笑太难了。

晚上回去问了下沙发主搭便车去大洋路的可行性，他说挺容易的啊，不过开车更方便，随时想停就停。然后又说他有辆不用的多余的二手破车，可以借我跟丹佛小哥那辆车开。我当时都震惊了，心想他好慷慨啊，竟然放心把他自己的车借给刚认识一两天的从来没在澳洲相反方向开过车的沙发客开。我都不好意思接受，但他坚持说如果他不愿意借我，他根本就不会提这个事儿。真的特别感谢他借车给我们，搭便车的计划就泡汤了。

第三天一早他要看我美国的驾照，给了我个试驾，我跟第一次考驾照似的还挺紧张的，毕竟一年没碰车了，而且驾驶座跟行驶方向还是跟美国相反的。勉强通过了他的“考试”，丹佛小哥来了他看都没看他驾照就直接说你注意点儿开就行。这是明显的性别歧视吗？哈哈。中午上路了，一路天气还好，时晴时阴时有阵雨，偶尔会不小心开到路右边儿。午饭在路边便利店随便买了个沙拉卷吃。大洋路Great Ocean Road真的是美得无法用言语形容了，站在海边望去，看着巨浪拍打着礁石，感觉到自己是多么地渺小。路过Port Cambpell大洋路边的十二使徒岩，屹立在海岸旁已有两千万年的历史了。这些岩石经过长年累月的巨浪拍打而形成，但因为岩石在海水的拍打侵蚀下正逐渐慢慢变小，有的已经倒下了，现在好像只剩下七个了。还路过了伦敦桥，也是由于海浪长年累月的拍打，将大崖壁变成了一座双孔的大陆桥，现在只有一个桥孔了。傍晚时开到Peterborough看夕阳，很美。晚饭吃了披萨和沙拉。晚上把车停在在Bay of Islands Coastal Park，在车里凑合睡了一晚。

第四天一早，我们开车顺利回到墨尔本。在离开澳大利亚之前赶上了墨尔本每周三的夜市，真够热闹的，真是多元文化的美食大融合：中国、日本、韩国、菲律宾、塞浦路斯、法国、意大利、美国、墨西哥、西班牙、尼泊尔、南非、哥伦比亚、斯里兰卡、土耳其等。更爱这个多元化的城市了。

  • 法式薄饼（甜）
  • 法式薄饼（咸）
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