麦德林 (2)
经朋友推荐参加了个麦德林免费的城市徒步游（给小费就好），早上临时决定去九点的那个。这个导游讲得特别有意思，用他的亲身经历让我了解了哥伦比亚以及麦德林更真实的那段历史，而不完全是电视剧《毒枭》里所描绘的。麦德林曾被称为“地球上最危险的城市”。大毒枭Pablo Escobar并不是都像外界所说的被当地人尊崇爱戴并当做英雄的。Pablo当时确实捐钱给穷人，建造医院和学校，但都是出于政治原因，穷人当然是容易被收买的了。另一部分人是对他恨之入骨的。导游跟我是同龄人，小时候家门口就亲眼目睹过爆炸、横尸遍野，也有身边的无辜的平民朋友丧失生命，很多受害者的亲属所经历的痛苦是无法衡量的。之后我又去参观了一个那个时期的纪念死者的博物馆Museo Casa de la Memoria，看到了很多视频照片，很受震撼。这些年当地人一直在努力摆脱与毒品、帮派战争和枪支暴力有关的形象。近年来麦德林翻天覆地的变化给他们带来了新生活的希望。在经历了这么多劫难之后，他们很珍惜眼前的生活，任何小小的幸福都会被放大。之后导游带我们经过了一个小咖啡店，门口的板子上写着“Un tinto $2500. Un tinto, por favor $2000. Buenos días! Un tinto, por favor $1600.” 意思就是你点咖啡的时候如果说“一杯黑咖啡”要2500比索，如果说“请给我来一杯黑咖啡”要2000比索，如果说“早上好！请给我来一杯黑咖啡”那就只要1600比索。讲礼貌在哪儿都好使的，哈哈。
今天又坐了另一个当地公共交通工具：有轨电车。车站门口围了一堆全副武装的武警，可能是为了周四全哥伦比亚的劳工会的抗议游行做准备吧。
下午去参观一个超级豪华的城堡博物馆Museo el Castillo，城堡内每小时的讲解纯是西语的，基本啥都没听懂。
晚上跟个新认识的当地小姑娘去吃麦德林的传统食物Bandeja Paisa，果真分量超大，要是没人一起分享着吃，一个人真得撑死不可。这顿饭吃得挺辛苦的，小姑娘英语基本不会，所以西语实在交流不下去了就连比划带猜的，但还挺有意思的。她快大学毕业了，学摄影艺术的，自己闲暇时间会做手工饰品（项链，手链什么的）然后在网上卖。
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