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早上去长途汽车站坐大巴去离市中心俩小时以外的Guatapé巨石。大巴上坐我旁边的女孩儿跟我聊了一路,我都佩服我自己用西语硬撑了一个多小时,然后用脑过度就睡过去了。这女孩是一个小村里的原住民,13年前搬来麦德林,现在是土木工程师。她不会英语,也完全不想学,但却自学了两年日语,对日本文化特别感兴趣,我马上给她推荐看Netflix上的Terrace House。又发现每次只要聊好吃的我就可以聊好长时间,因为当地美食的西语名称记得倍儿清楚。她还推荐我吃番石榴糕和奶酪的奇特组合。之后她还问了我很多关于中国的问题。
哥伦比亚的长途大巴车一路上可有意思了,中途一停车,就有路边儿卖零食的小贩拎着一包一包的零食上车吆嚒。中途还有警察上车收所有人的证件一个一个查的,我带了护照他却没收。最神奇的是我回来的路上睡的正香呢,结果被一阵说唱吵醒了。俩哥们儿上来架上个小音箱,轮流说唱加口技,这卖艺的也太娱乐大众了吧!过了十分钟车停路边就下去了。
去的路上后半程睡过去了,还好到巨石的时候旁边那女孩儿叫醒我下车。走到山脚下看到巨石还是挺震惊的(图一的第一张是网上盗的)。台阶儿看着挺多的,但其实爬上去还好。天气格外好,最上面的风景也超级美。
爬巨石的时候认识了好几个有意思的人。第一个是个美国人,但得知我是中国人之后马上就用巨流利的中文跟我聊起来,西语也很流利。他在北大学的中文,在北京住过一两年,十年间一直会去中国旅游出差。他在美国住南加州,离我原来住的城市也很近。第二个是个独自旅行的德国女孩,在巨石顶上认识的,一块儿拼蹦蹦车去旁边的城市Guatapé一起逛,之后又坐长途车回麦德林。一路上分享了很多作为独自旅行的女性的经历,很有共鸣。她是个护士,曾经在柬埔寨做艾滋病志愿者一两年。最不能忍的是问她这次旅行多久,她说“哎,太短了,才三个礼拜。”这其实是欧洲尤其是来自德国的旅行者的普遍回答。他们一年假期太多了,六到九个礼拜不等。极其羡慕嫉妒恨!认识的第三个人是个荷兰大叔,退休了跟他老婆来旅游,但他老婆不舒服就没去爬巨石。跟他是在巨石下跟德国女孩儿拼车的时候他加入我们认识的。他只需要搭车下山,不跟我们去Guatapé,因为他的酒店就在山脚下。他跟我们强烈推荐了个Guatapé市内的素食馆子。
Guatapé这个小城超级美,到处都是色彩鲜艳的建筑和装饰。我跟德国女孩逛着逛着就无意间看见了刚才那个荷兰大叔推荐的纯素食馆,这估计是来了哥伦比亚之后吃的最健康的一餐了(一般的餐都肉太多了而且分量都巨大)。餐厅老板跟小工看起来超级开心,一边给我们做饭一边放着当地音乐边扭边唱。我们坐在外面的小椅子上,吃着美食,格外惬意。
吃饱逛完准备回去时,突然看到刚拼车的荷兰大叔在另一个地儿正坐着喝咖啡呢,于是我俩就坐下跟他又聊了聊,主要是感谢他推荐的馆子。聊着聊着刚才爬巨石时认识的那个会说中文的美国人也突然出现在这个馆子了,真神奇!坐大巴回去之前买了之前长途车来时旁边女孩推荐的番石榴糕和奶酪的组合尝了尝。这一天中的偶遇,重聚,加上尝试别人推荐的美食简直是旅行中最开心的事情之一了。
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