旅行,  欧洲,  爱尔兰

戈尔韦

11 月 21, 2021 /

感恩节放假，从旧金山飞巴黎转机到爱尔兰都柏林，到了都柏林下午不到五点天就黑了，又坐三个小时的大巴到了西边的戈尔韦Galway，将近一整天都耗在路上了。还好到了Galway青旅前台小妹推荐我去看看他们一周前刚开的圣诞市集。五彩缤纷的圣诞彩灯，节日气氛太浓郁了。Latin Quarter附近街上走两步就是个酒吧，还有街头的现场音乐表演。

第二天早上八点才日出，沿着海边一路走到Salthill Promenade。特别多的当地人在沿海跑步，竟然还看见有个专门冬泳的地方，室外气温五六度还有这么多人在冬泳，佩服啊。

在Galway吃过午饭为了消食儿继续逛，街上白天有更多的街头艺人，多为演奏唱歌的，第一次见双胞胎兄弟边弹边唱。但还遇见了个展示球技的，过往路人都不由得驻足观看，他这大冬天的只穿一身球衣在地上又滚又爬又跳的，后背全湿了，真不容易。Galway这座小城真的随处都是景，逛到爱尔兰国家大学的校园，建筑很有特色，像个城堡。

下午沙发主来接我，他开了辆1962年的老式福特轿车，但车还是没他年龄大，他今年刚刚60岁。以前我总是管六七十岁的男性叫大爷，现在相对年龄慢慢缩小，就只能称为大叔了。这位大叔是个汽车电力工程师，经常改装修理各种车辆，曾因为工作原因跟深圳杭州等地汽车零件厂商打交道，去过中国出差多次，也在菲律宾住过四年。

我上车后半天找不着安全带，他说1974年才出台车辆必须有安全带的法律，所以这之前的车是没有安全带的，没想到还有这双重标准。他用的手机也有年头儿了，是老款诺基亚。他说这款老手机用着可好使了，电量能持续五六天，现在的新智能手机虽然功能多很多，但他并不需要那么多功能。他的福特老爷车也是如此，自从他买来这么多年运行状况一直不错，质量很过关，基本没怎么修理过。反而是很多新款需要频繁修理，且配件昂贵。我们聊到在现在的消费主义时代，很多厂家制造产品时故意降低成本和质量，促使很多商品寿命减少，成了消耗品，从而导致坏了以后人们不得不频繁地买新的产品。我个人就感觉苹果手机和电脑的电池寿命越来越差劲儿。

大叔听说我是教美国人的中文的老师，他特别诧异，半开玩笑说美国人连英文都说不好，还学中文呐！？看来不光是英国人瞧不上美式英语，爱尔兰人也如此啊。我又问了他关于爱尔兰语的问题，因为这两天看到街头各种标识上都有英语和爱尔兰语两种。他说他从小在家跟他爸只说爱尔兰语，跟他妈只说英语，因为他妈是苏格兰人。爱尔兰语和德语类似，有很多喉音，他说他妈尝试学，但学不好就只跟他用英语交流了。还了解到爱尔兰语按地域分有三大方言，很多用词都不同，但互相之间大部分都能听懂。学校里学生们是必须要学标准化的爱尔兰语的，但书本里的爱尔兰语与当地人日常生活中用的方言又不太一样，所以现在年轻人说英语的越来越多，因为从书本上学到的爱尔兰语在日常生活中并不太实用。

又聊到爱尔兰的国家体育项目hurling，中文可以叫爱尔兰式曲棍球，源于古代战场上战士的训练活动。这也是最快的球场上运动，与长曲棍球类似，但不同的是木棍上并没有小网兜儿，而是一块儿小平板，更难接球控球。英国统治爱尔兰时期这项运动逐渐流行起来，这项运动的兴起表明他们想要独立、摆脱英国统治，爱尔兰民族身份的象征。

大叔家住在离Galway西北方向一个多小时的大西洋岸边Carna，方圆几百里的村里人大家都相互认识并知根知底儿，很多都是亲戚，所以大家称呼彼此都是只用名，不用姓，因为很多人都有同样的姓。他家祖祖辈辈往上十一代人都住这儿，他家石头盖的房子有五六百年历史了。最近几十年由于人口下降，年轻人搬去大城市，这里的小学里的学生也大幅减少。他的女儿也是位老师，在威尔士工作。一路开来路两旁都是农场，牛羊遍地，怪不得他说他根本不喝水，把牛奶当水喝的。

在谷歌地图上搜了半天，只找着了一个饭馆儿，一问大叔，他说“跟你说了全村的人我都认识，开这家饭馆的也是我亲戚”。果真，我们一进这家馆子，里面的顾客看到他都互相打招呼，跟老朋友一样。在酒吧喝酒可以说是整个爱尔兰的文化基础，大叔说坐在吧台旁边那两三人基本每天都在这儿喝酒，有时候周末甚至白天就来坐这儿喝到晚上。我说他们在这儿一晚上至少喝五六大杯（一大杯大概500毫升）吧，我这基本不喝酒的立马被大叔嘲笑了，服务生兼酒保路过听到也大笑说“一个小时五六大杯还差不多”。我说天啊，这得摄入多少卡路里花多少钱啊！？大叔说“你没发现咱们是这儿唯一一桌点菜的吗？一般当地人为了能多喝酒，都不吃食物了。”我心想这简直跟我完全相反啊，我不喝酒是因为我宁可留着肚子享用更多的美食。

吃着吃着，旁边一大桌人里的一个女生突然唱起爱尔兰歌曲来，歌声极其悠扬，突然整个馆子就安静了，不一会儿其他顾客也加入她，随声和了起来。是次意料之外的很有意思的当地文化体验。

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