南美洲,  旅行,  秘鲁

库斯科

7 月 22, 2021 /

昨晚坐长途车夜车15个小时从Nazca到Cusco，因为这趟车是白天从利马开过来的，上车的时候基本全满了。我的座位被另一个人坐了，跟他说了他占了我的座位，但因为他旁边跟家人挨着，我看他没有换座的意思，而且后面也有个空座，我就坐过去了。半夜11点多路过一个小镇，有人上车，到我旁边说我坐了她的位子。这回我只能再次强硬要求坐了我座位的人去坐他自己的位子。他半天不挪窝，我就一直说这是我的位子，你应该坐你票上的位子上去，周围很多乘客也都醒了，也帮忙声讨让那个人坐回他自己的位子去，这他才起来坐后面去了。如果大家都遵守规则也不会有这么多麻烦。这回踏实了，戴上耳塞一觉睡到七点多。

到了Cusco，青旅前台姑娘竟也会说中文，是马来西亚怡保人，在日本工作过三年，会说日语，自己对西语和拉丁美文化感兴趣，一年多前辞职去了墨西哥然后现在在秘鲁边打工边旅游。感觉Cusco是这次旅程中没怎么受疫情影响的地方，街上到处都是人，青旅都爆满了，真不敢想象疫情前这儿得有多少游客。

中午去逛了规模巨大的San Pedro市场，在这儿简单吃了午餐，之后一个当地朋友带我去逛了附近的一些街区和观看城市全景的观景台。这儿海拔三千多米，爬台阶缺氧多少有些喘。但景色无敌美，蓝天白云红屋顶。当地市场街摊上卖各种各样的蔬菜水果，下图中可以看到秘鲁3000多不同种类的土豆其中的一些，和50多种不同的玉米的其中几种。街头到处可见卖鲜榨橙汁的，喝了一杯之后一般还会再倒半杯给你。街头水果木瓜和当地的小红李子都很甜。

第二天报了个一日团去离Cusco三四个小时车程的Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain)彩虹山。昨晚决定报团时完全被照片所吸引，后来才发现这个要徒步四五个小时，而且是要到达海拔5000米，咋就没人跟我说这应该来Cusco过几天适应了高海拔再去啊？我可是昨天才到的啊！

早上4点半出发，下午快5点才回来。这个团一车十几个人只有我一个外国游客，路上开了两个多小时在一个餐馆吃了团餐早饭，喝了coca茶，这是当地的一种草药叶子，据说泡茶能缓解高反症状。又开了一个多小时山路到了彩虹山入口。导游说最近每天有大概一千名游客，但疫情前是现在的三四倍。无法想象是个怎样的场景，因为今天在山顶上就觉得净看人了。我们从4600多米开始爬，爬了两个小时到了顶端5000多米。刚开始的景色很像四川稻城亚丁。这一路上刚开始有点儿太阳，后来越高气温下降越快，再后来还开始飘了点儿小雪，再加上高反，真不是一般累啊！最虚弱的时候，我就鼓励自己：Cusco附近最高的山之一都爬了，之后的马丘比丘啥的就是浮云了。山顶上有很多当地印加人背着食物饮料煤气罐上去卖的，还有穿着传统服饰拉着小羊驼在上面跟游客合影拍照的。山顶上的景色的确很震撼，颜色是由于岩石层里不同的矿物质形成的，很像甘肃的张掖。不远处就能看见冰川，但导游说由于全球气候变暖，这些年冰川融化得很厉害。下山回到车里之后，同车的秘鲁游客都好心地问我怎么样，是否有不适。下山乘车又去早上那个饭馆吃了自助团餐，喝了热汤，不敢吃太多，怕再坐两小时车晕车再吐了。还好在车上睡了一觉，回到Cusco体力恢复了。

Cusco第三天去Sacred Valley圣谷一日游，怪不得这个团最便宜，因为这个团跟国内的购物团有点儿像，每参观一个景点之后都会去个购物处：羊驼毛织品厂、巧克力、盐厂。羊驼毛织品厂还算有点儿意思。当地女人都会用羊驼毛纯手工制作毛衣、披肩、帽子、围巾等产品，当然也有机器制造的，手工的当然要贵很多。还给我们示范了他们如何用植物、昆虫、矿石等天然染料给羊驼毛织品上色的传统工艺。

圣谷中分布着很多印加遗址，今天去参观了Chinchero、Moray、Urumbamba和Ollantaytambo，一路上各种田园风光。Moray是印加人依山而建的一个独特的巨型圆形梯田。Ollantaytambo有圣谷最大最雄伟的印加遗址-太阳神殿，这个神殿还没有修好时Cusco就在西班牙军队的入侵下沦陷了。从这儿的印加步道可以徒步到马丘比丘四天时间。除了神殿，小镇本身也很有特色。小镇的布局和印加时期的城市布局相似，有大石头铺成的街道和狭窄的不通汽车的巷子。小镇居民的房屋顶上经常能看见可爱的动物雕像。印加人修建房屋之前都会向Pancha Mama（大地母亲）祈福，这些小雕像代表了大地母亲的祝福。

下午在小镇上正走着呢，路过一家人，他们突然跟我说“你好”，这其实挺常见的，旅游时有的当地人看见个亚洲人就会说“你好”或者“konnichiwa”。我友好地回了一句，没想到一家人里的爸爸又接着用中文说“我叫……”。然后他十八九岁的儿子和女儿也用中文简单说了几句。跟他们聊，得知他们高中的时候学了两三年中文，几年前还跟其他学生团去过中国两三周。他爸爸也跟他们学了几句中文。很有意思的一家人。

不知怎么着，第二天早上闹铃竟然没响，醒的时候正好六点，错过了六点去马丘比丘的火车，这我昨晚还是确定好几次设好闹铃的。还好因为疫情游客不多，只好赶紧上网又破费订了张10点的火车票。火车一路沿着Urubamba河开到马丘比丘的Agua Caliente热水镇，沿路风景很美，车厢最上面还有天窗，上车前还有两个穿着印加传统服饰面具的工作人员娱乐大众跳舞合影什么的。

疫情前每天参观马丘比丘的游客大概有2500人，去年11月重新开放30%的游客量，今年5月好像又增加到40%，但实际的游客量比可允许参观的数量还要少很多。疫情期间来的好处自然就不用说了，不用看人山人海了，尤其下午两点进去的时候很空旷，人很少，门票我都是到了现买的。但坏处就是马丘比丘里的很多其他景点和路线都不开放了，所以我在里面待了一个多小时就参观完了。现在特别佩服那些走印加古道或走其他四五天步道、徒步到达马丘比丘的朋友们。我肯定无法体验他们经历了艰难险阻、最终到达并看到马丘比丘的那一刹那的心情。我这坐火车汽车一路过来还是太容易了，看到马丘比丘的第一眼有些震撼，但更多的感觉是像在打卡。

马丘比丘位于安第斯山脉之中，是印加帝国的遗迹，也是印加文明的发源地。四周群山环抱，地势险要。以下摘自网络：“秘鲁是个地震风险高的国家。马丘比丘的建筑采用了微妙的传统印加建筑技术，经打磨的方石块叠砌起来，在没有用上砂浆的情况下如拼图般紧合在一起。石缝接合精确完美，连一条小草也插不入。印加的石墙还有许多设计细节，如梯形门窗和四角向内微微倾斜的房间等，防止了建筑物在地震中倒塌。这倚山而建的城市设计有序，印加人在此还开展了农业。虽然地形险峻，但却有着完善的灌溉系统。”

早上徒步去了离热水镇一个小时左右的Mandor瀑布，一路上沿着火车轨道走，很清净，风景也很好，看到了Huayna Picchu （马丘比丘后面的那座高山）。下午坐火车回Cusco，旁边坐着个以色列的姑娘，对面坐着一对儿墨西哥来的情侣。他们三个都是徒步了四五天的Salcantay路线到达马丘比丘的，佩服！墨西哥的情侣前几天徒步时刚刚订婚，顺便蜜月了。他俩一个是墨西哥城人，另一个是瓜达拉哈拉人，正好是我四月去的两个地儿。跟他们聊这两个城市的美食，说得他们都很兴奋。旁边那个以色列姑娘来秘鲁前也是上个月在厄瓜多尔旅游，聊到她也去了格拉帕哥斯群岛。我突然想起来在那儿徒步去一个当地人知道的小海滩时短暂遇到了一对美国的姐妹和一个以色列女孩，就问她是不是也去了那个小海滩，她过了半天终于想起我来了。世界真小，我俩已经见过一次了，现在又在火车上挨着座位。跟之前遇到的一个以色列小哥一样，她也是刚参军完（女性两年，男性三年）然后自己独自来旅游的。记得我问之前那个小哥他参军那三年具体做什么，他含糊说了几句，然后说是军事机密不能再多说了。这姑娘倒没介意，说参军前每个人会有体能、智力等测试，根据结果和个人兴趣特长会分配去不同的部门、接受不同的培训并从事不同的工作。问及她具体参军的时候做什么，她说她是fighter，接受过很多格斗训练，之后她的工作就是带军犬去巴勒斯坦边境去探雷什么的。天啊，她每天那不得都冒着生命危险啊！她说那段经历虽然很苦，但成就了今天的她，若没有那段经历，她现在也不会自己一个人独自旅行。

关于最近尝试的新秘鲁食物：tamal粽子(图7-1)，跟墨西哥和其他拉美国家不同的是，这里的tamal里面放了橄榄。黑了吧唧的血肠儿(图7-2)。chicha de jora (图7-3)没有chicha morada (图7-4)那么常见，chicha de jora是用一种黄色的玉米发酵制作的，含少量酒精。arroz con pato大盘鸭子饭(图7-5)，这盘饭一上来我都惊了，感觉是半只肥硕的鸭子加上一大满盘饭，我这么能吃的只吃了一半儿，剩下一半儿当晚饭了。秘鲁这边也常吃quinoa藜麦，喝了藜麦汤(图7-6)，早饭喝藜麦奶或煮藜麦苹果汁(图7-7)也很常见。还有muña茶(图7-8)，是一种当地的草药植物泡茶，据说和coca茶一样，可以缓解高反。除了饮料，早饭一般就是小三明治(图7-9/8-1)了：小面包加煎鸡蛋、鸡肉、生菜、火腿肠、牛油果、橄榄、黄油、果酱等。Cusco这里吃trucha鳟鱼很常见，炸或煎鳟鱼(图8-2/3)和lentil小扁豆或豆子搭配吃，或者做成ceviche柠檬汁腌制生鱼片(图8-4)。秘鲁另一道常见菜叫aji de gallina (图8-5)，用小黄辣椒、核桃、蒜、黄姜和其他佐料炖母鸡，里面还有橄榄、土豆和煮鸡蛋。pisco sour (图8-6)是秘鲁有名的酒，里面一般有新鲜柠檬汁、糖浆、打发的鸡蛋白在上面。crema de zapallo奶酪南瓜汤(图8-7)，alpaca a la plancha烤制的羊驼肉(图8-8)和cuy豚鼠(图8-9)是Cusco这儿的一大特色，我没吃过出好奇才想尝尝的。这两种动物都很可爱，吃的时候还是有些不忍的。羊驼肉和豚鼠的肉都比较柴，所以其实吃起来并不是很美味。palta relleno (图9-5)是牛油果切半，中间放上各种切丁儿的蔬菜沙拉，上面再撒上奶酪丝。

  • tamal
  • relleno
  • chicha de jora
  • arroz con pato
  • 藜麦汤
  • quinoa con manzana
  • muña茶
  • sanguche con palta
  • trucha frita
  • lenteja y trucha
  • ceviche de trucha
  • aji de gallina
  • 小红李子
  • pisco sour
  • crema de zapallo
  • alpaca a la plancha
  • cuy chactado
  • palta relleno
  • espagueti napoliana
  • papa relleno
  • rocoto relleno

回到Cusco一日团去了Humantay湖，这是Salcantay四天徒步去马丘比丘路线的起点。一路风景极美，徒步从海拔3800米到4200米，往返将近三个小时，一路大上坡，但还好先去了彩虹山，到这儿就没有高反了。

同团里又遇到三个以色列人，跟之前遇到的几个是同样的背景，刚参军完然后来南美无限期独自旅行。他们说一般家里不会资助他们旅游，都是自己打工攒钱，再加上离开军队的时候会拿到一些钱。他们在军队里的工作包括救助伤员的医务人员、空军部队里培训跳伞、格斗战士等。跟他们聊到战乱、聊到他们曾经有战友参军时意外丧失生命的、聊到参军期间曾经由于不能融入“大男子气概”的军队文化而抑郁的。但不管他们经历过什么，他们都认为那段参军经历造就了现在的自己。这次旅行先后遇到的五个刚参军完的以色列人，都才20岁出头，但明显感觉他们言谈举止比同龄人成熟很多。

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