亚洲,  旅行,  泰国

曼谷

11 月 19, 2018 /

从清迈坐飞机去曼谷，大中午的刚到青旅，就开始下暴雨。瓢泼大雨一直持续了一个多小时，完了马上就艳阳高照了。

我坐公交去逛了恰图恰周末市场Chatuchak，简称JJ Market，这里有些有意思的小店。在沙发客软件上遇到个香港人约着在这儿见面，他在台湾工作过，之前在美国达特茅斯读的本科，专业是经济与亚洲研究（日语），现在在投行工作，也是超爱旅游的。我们在外面走着走着，突然整条街都安静了，才知道早上八点跟晚上六点公园学校等公共场所会放国歌，听到都要起立立正，有国旗的话要面对国旗，对国歌国旗不敬者都会被警察抓起来，不论国籍。边溜达边喝了洛神汁，吃了椰子冰淇淋。晚上去考山路Khaosan，这个香港小哥刚认识的一个意大利朋友也加入了我们，他是位律师，最近也是辞职旅游。考山路到处都是游客还吵得要死，我们尝了日式铁板蛋面、椰子煎饼和南瓜冻，感觉逛了半天也没啥好吃的。

第二天跟昨天青旅认识的也是最近刚辞职的阿根廷姑娘去了美功铁路市场Mae Klong Railway Market，这儿被称为泰国最危险的农贸市场，因为在这儿能见到火车穿过市场的神奇景观，一天上下午两趟。这儿的摊位都是沿着铁道摆放的，卖各种水果、蔬菜和肉类。火车进站几分钟前会响起鸣笛警告，小贩们会麻利地把摊位跟遮阳棚往后撤回来，迅速收起铁道上的商品，列车开过后，再把摊位迅速地移出来。火车开得非常慢，擦肩而过真的不夸张，一位摆摊的老奶奶的手脚可利落了，这一切不可思议地在几分钟之内就完成了。火车过后，小贩们又马上恢复了往日的劳作，这对于他们真是习以为常了吧。之后又去了旁边的丹嫩沙多水上市场Damnoen Saduak Floating Market，一条条卖货的木质的独木舟上载满了五颜六色的水果和各式各样的食物，在狭窄的运河上交错往来，有的戴着草帽大声地吆喝叫卖，河岸边是一户户的水乡住宅和店铺，别有一番特色，但商业气息太浓了，很多游客乘坐的手摇船或电动船感觉比商贩的穿还多，造成堵船拥堵不堪。船上有卖架着小火炉的现做的汤粉的，还有卖芒果糯米饭的。我们在这儿吃了玉米棒子、好久没吃了的Krispy Kreme多纳圈、椰丝饼taco、汤粉roll noodle和椰子冰淇淋。

回到曼谷市中心，又去参观了几个华丽的寺庙：大皇宫 The Grand Palace、玉佛寺Temple of the Emerald Buddha、卧佛寺 Wat Phra Chetuphon和坐船去了郑王庙 Wat Arun。这两天走哪儿都能看见慵懒的猫。

晚上去了中国城，规模很大，据说中国人移民泰国的历史可以追溯到18世纪。我在这儿吃了炸芋头和咖喱大虾饭，在附近看了个灯光秀建筑。新认识的朋友告我在泰国用Grab不仅能打出租车，还能打摩的，叫Grab Bike，而且便宜不少，晚上从Asiatique the Riverfront摩天轮附近回来决定试试。我坐摩托车后面带着头盔，老司机开得挺快，风吹死我了，有堵车时他就各种穿梭。将近十公里骑了20多分钟，才花了20块人民币，比出租车效率高多了。

经朋友推荐，决定第三天早上去金山寺。路上在一个早市吃了紫薯包子和绿色的糯米糕。

大早上金山寺几乎没有游客，登上山顶能俯瞰曼谷全景。旧城区坐地铁轻轨都不方便，运河的渡船便成了高效快捷的交通工具。船开得很快，水花四溅的，卖船票的就抓着一根绳子站在船舷上，站得还挺稳的。河岸两侧有很多涂鸦。

坐船到了Siam Discovery/Paragon/Square购物中心，进到这里感觉一下成了国际化大都市，看到很多熟悉的品牌和连锁店。

中午在路边的小店喝了冬阴功汤，出门又吃了Patonggo炸小油条冰淇淋和烤香蕉。在曼谷感觉两天半该逛的都逛完了，下午找了家咖啡馆Vespa Café，点了杯泰式奶茶，待了一下午。晚上吃了红咖喱炒饭和木瓜。

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