中美洲,  危地马拉,  旅行

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2 月 23, 2022 /

晚上从萨尔瓦多飞危地马拉城半小时就到了，下了飞机直接去Antigua Guatemala安堤瓜古城，机场小巴要凑齐三个人才开，因为是最后一个航班了，除了我一个人等了十分钟看也没有别的人是去Antigua的了，于是只能叫Uber了。将近一个小时的车程才20美元出头，比美国便宜太多了。一路上发现这儿的快餐业比萨尔瓦多更发达，除了萨尔瓦多见到的那些，还看见了Denny’s 和Taco Bell。到了Antigua沙发主发给我他的地址就在市中心，到了那儿才知道他家是开旅店的，有多余空房就会提供给沙发客，这还真是我第一次遇见。我给他带了个旧金山的小礼物，他说正好他下个月会去旧金山参加朋友婚礼，有机会还会再见。

第二天大早本来是打算出去跑步的，但跑了三分钟就放弃了，怕把脚崴了，因为古城里到处都是大石子儿铺的路，坑坑洼洼极其不平。于是去爬个小山Cerro de la Cruz看城市全景，在最上面有两个女孩儿让我摆姿势给我照相，照完了我觉得很奇怪问她们为啥要照我，她们说是摄影练手用。下山后在古城里走路溜达，街头巷尾常见到玛雅遗址和教堂，周日有很多人去教堂做礼拜。中午约了个从德国来的捷克姑娘一起吃饭，之后在当地市场买了些热带水果。

下午报了个团去爬Pacaya火山，团里遇见一对波兰情侣，也是昨天刚到危地马拉，会在这儿玩一个月，他们的假期好长啊。聊着聊着车里前排的另一个游客转过来开始跟他们说波兰语，原来她也是波兰人，但移居美国已经20多年了，跟我说她也是个老师，在佛罗里达教高中的AP心理学。她们学区上周四五放假两天，加上周一的总统日，她一共才在这儿玩五天。波兰情侣觉得我一周的假就很少了，一听这位老师更少都难以想象。于是我俩就开始一起吐槽当老师的利弊，没想到她们公立老师也很不容易，都看学区。她小儿子刚上大学，她丈夫换了工作没空一起旅游，这是她第一次一个人自己旅游。她丈夫是一个航空公司的飞行员，以前他们总是全家一起旅游，也去过中国。

这个Pacaya火山虽然不难爬，上去一个多小时而已。但风巨大，基本是土路，吹得一身沙尘，路上要么是小石子儿要么就是火山岩，路不好走。到了上面休息等夕阳的时候，导游开始在小岩浆洞里烤棉花糖，另一个大点儿的岩浆洞里温度更高，还有当地人现场做披萨放里面烤了卖给游客呢。听说八个月前在这儿都能看到流动的岩浆。山顶上风巨大，温度也低，不站稳了很容易被风吹得晃悠，我找了个小岩浆洞旁边的石头上坐着，马上就暖和多了。下山的时候天已经黑了，导游照着手电我们才能安全下山，到山下已是满脸满口沙尘了。

危地马拉最有名的就要数火山了。报了个两日一夜的团去爬Acatenango火山，去之前听当地朋友和去过的驴友都说会很累，那就挑战一下吧。报团的时候说会包三餐、3升水、大衣手套帽子，自己带1升水就好了。我除了一升水，也带了点儿零食和自己的羽绒服，因为听说山顶会很冷。去的路上停车补给分配装备时才意识到那些东西都要自己背上山去。多拿了件大衣、手套帽子、3升水和午餐。于是小背包马上就被塞满了，至少八公斤吧。

到了山脚下，一下车就租了根登山杖，三个导游跟着我们团20多个人。导游问谁能帮忙翻译，他们都不会说英文，一个美国白人队友于是主动帮忙开始翻译。大中午的我们爬了一个多小时到达火山国家公园入口处已经汗流浃背了，一路全是大上坡儿，尘土飞扬的。休息时我问那个美国翻译队友是哪个州的、西语怎么这么好。原来他离我不远，从萨克拉门托来，也是个老师，是教高中西班牙语的，怪不得呢。他也是趁这一周假来玩。后来边爬边聊，得知他大学毕业之后去墨西哥旅行，本来没想留下，但正好有个教英文的工作机会，还可以免费上西语课，他就留下了。他在墨西哥、哥伦比亚、智利、阿根廷和巴西工作生活了七年，葡萄牙语跟西语一样好，回美国后到现在第八年一直教西语。这15年间一有假期就会去旅游。他才是真正的旅游狂人，全世界将近两百个国家除了北朝鲜和台湾（别谈政治）没去过，其他的全去过了，主要是因为疫情他才没去成。很多充满战乱、我想都不敢想或听都没听过的国家他也都去遍了。他不仅是个旅游狂人，还是个狂热的户外爱好者，大学每年暑假都会兼职导游带青少年团去野外生存露营什么的。每周末基本都会去越野跑几十公里，经常跑ultramarathon超长马拉松，所有不同类型的马拉松加起来已经跑过60多次了。说去年第一次受组织者邀请当pacer，需要整个比赛过程中保持同一速度，有好几十个参赛者会跟着他一起跑，这样可以保证马拉松的比赛成绩。

我们这个团20几个人，来自世界各地：英国（苏格兰）、法国、德国、瑞典、荷兰、波兰和美国。另外来自美国西弗吉尼亚州的一对情侣也不是一般人，爬火山到海拔3600米的营地，一路上土路沙石泥泞都是赤脚爬上来的，直到夜晚降温了才把鞋穿上。我好奇问他们原因，得知那男的是在大山里的农场里长大的，从小就赤脚习惯了，说脚掌比鞋底儿抓力更大，赤脚走对身体姿态脊背有好处等。还说会慢慢习惯疼痛，走多了长茧子出来就是保护层了。那女的说的就有点儿邪乎了，说她脱了鞋脚触碰大地的一瞬间她就能感觉到大自然原始的力量，赋予她能量。不管怎样，还是很佩服他们赤脚五六个小时爬上来。这个团里除了我和那个西语老师，后来发现还有几个老师，一个是来自英国的在斯里兰卡和中国教过英语的老师，另一个是苏格兰的小学全科老师，不过他俩都是最近辞职旅游的。另一个来自荷兰的小哥读了6年牙科，当了两年牙医，前几个月也辞职了来旅游大半年。

经过五六个小时的攀爬终于到了营地，一共两个大帐篷，每个大通铺睡12个人。放下背包上了厕所。西语老师说他要再往上爬爬，找个更好的位置拍火山，问我要不要一起去。反正离吃晚饭时间还有一个多小时，除了盯着火山看也没别的事儿干，就跟他一起去吧。结果跟他爬这一个多小时比之前的还累，首先我们得走一些野路，很多沙石大坡儿横着穿过去的时候边走边往下滑，费了老劲儿了。再有就是他体力老好了，这估计对他来说小菜一碟，中途我低着头看路爬，一抬头他就没影儿了。顺着声音往他的方向爬，手脚并用，爬了半天还是不见他人影，以为走丢了，还好看到他飞无人机过来我才放下心来。回营地路上天色渐暗，我还是相信他的野外方向感的，但有很多岔路，也找了半天才找回到我们的营地。

回到营地坐在篝火旁休息，导游做了热巧克力给我们喝，暖和很多。听说有五六个人多付钱雇一个导游徒步去离大火山旁边的Fuego火山，去近距离观看火山爆发。还好我没参加，他们快大半夜才回来，而且由于云雾较大也没太看见岩浆喷发。导游做了晚饭意大利面，吃完了大家就在篝火旁聊天，看火山时不时喷发。晚上在帐篷里基本一夜没睡，一是太冷，我把另一件大衣套腿上也没暖和过来，睡袋也太薄不保暖。二是帐篷里人太多，带着耳塞也能听着动静。三是外面的大火山每隔二三十分钟就爆发一次，那动静就更大了。第二天早上四点多起来，跟着导游去登顶，大概将近海拔4000米。外面黑布隆冬的，戴着头灯，一路一个多小时完全是大上坡，而且大部分路全是松动的沙石，走一步退半步，格外费力。到了顶上，等着看日出，温度很低，风格外大，不站稳了真能给吹倒了。看完日出回到营地吃早饭收拾准备下山，背包轻了很多，下山一路基本没怎么停顿休息，三四个小时就下去了，但也是不容易，很多地方沙石太滑了，有登山杖也摔倒了几次，到山下腿都软了。回旅店躺了半天才缓过来。虽然很辛苦，但这个经历还是很值得的。

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