旅行,  欧洲,  美食,  西班牙

马德里-美食篇

3 月 5, 2020 /

马德里是个多元化的大都市，也汇聚了全国各地的美食。马德里的沙发主带我去了Cava Baja美食街。整条街都是tapas馆子。他还推荐我去了两个当地市场：Mercado de San Miguel和Mercado Antón Martin。两个市场都不是那种很接地气儿的，价格稍高，有点儿小资，但环境特别好，去逛逛还是挺有意思的。

  • Cava Baja 美食街

当地美食介绍：

  1. Tortilla de Patatas (Spanish Omelette) – 西班牙土豆煎蛋饼：这在西班牙哪儿都有，是西班牙最有名的传统食品之一。关于起源有两种说法，一是19世纪初期的西班牙人经济并不富裕，鸡蛋价格也比较昂贵，“用两三个鸡蛋做出5、6个人都吃得饱的食品”的想法促使一些家庭主妇们在煎蛋中加入了土豆，这样不会消耗太多的鸡蛋。另一种说法是以前战争中，军队里粮仓储备不充足，于是一个将军发明了这种即容易做又快捷、又营养丰富能填饱肚子的食物。图片里的这个其实不是传统的土豆鸡蛋饼，是创新版，里面加了其他的原料。最传统的土豆鸡蛋比的主要原料只有土豆、鸡蛋和洋葱。
  2. Tostadas de Jamón Ibérico – 伊比利亚火腿烤面包：先介绍下tostada – 烤面包片。这种烤面包片是西班牙的传统早餐，但也会当零食或者下酒小菜吃。一般的早餐会在烤面包片上抹上新鲜番茄酱汁和纯橄榄油。Tapa馆子里会有各种各样的烤面包片，比如下图2、3中的伊比利亚火腿和凤尾鱼。
  • 1. Tortilla de Patatas (Spanish Omelette)
    西班牙土豆煎蛋饼
  • 2. Tostadas de Jamón Ibérico
    伊比利亚火腿烤面包
  • Tostadas de Anchoa
    凤尾鱼烤面包


  • Oxtail Cannelloni 烤牛尾卷

城市游中认识了一对儿英国过来玩的台湾情侣，完了我们仨一起去了导游推荐的仨地儿，终于吃到了正宗的西班牙海鲜饭paella，炸鱿鱼圈三明治bocadillo de Calamares和在塞哥维亚因为时间原因没吃成的烤乳猪cochonillo。在塞哥维亚没吃成烤乳猪现在想想就是命啊，就算时间允许我点了这道菜也不可能吃得下这么多肉，就想尝个味儿而已。所以才有缘遇到他们一起分享这么多我一个人不可能点的美食。真是缘分！

当地美食介绍：

  1. Bocadillo de Calamares – 炸鱿鱼圈三明治：不得不先介绍下bocadillo三明治。其实来西班牙在巴塞吃的第一餐就是bocadillo,然后从巴塞到瓦伦西亚中途火车停站吃了一个，当天中午又吃了个，但因为三个都是街摊儿上随便买的快餐，味道太一般了，必须等到吃到真正美味的bocadillo再好好介绍。Bocadillo不是一般印象中的两个面包片儿夹着的三明治，而是用那种比较硬的法式长棍面包做的。在西班牙，bocadillo中一般不会夹着生菜、酸黄瓜片、西红柿、洋葱、蛋黄酱或其他酱料，一般只有火腿肉、香肠、土豆蛋饼、奶酪、鱼类等，可以冷食或者烤热吃。由于bocadillo里没有受热易变质的原料，这就使它成为了徒步、登山、坐长途车、外出时适合携带的零食，也是很多西班牙人的午饭常见选择。西班牙不同地域的bocadillo也不太一样。最常见的是火腿切片和香肠，还有鸡蛋加奶酪、土豆、豆类、鸡肉、猪肉、牛肉、羊肉、马肉、沙丁鱼、鱿鱼、墨鱼等。下图中有两个炸鱿鱼圈三明治（明显能看出区别），是马德里特色三明治。左边的是午饭是街摊连锁店里买的，味道很一般，右图金黄色的是导游介绍的当地人都会去的La Campana馆子。晚上八点刚开门就已经人满为患了，虽然生意超级忙，但服务员都特别耐心热情，做bocadillo的小哥看我照相，他还特意打开三明治给我摆拍。超级好吃！
  2. Cochinillo – 烤乳猪：最正宗的烤乳猪其实在塞戈维亚。这是一道手工菜，厨师会精选出两三公斤的未断奶的小猪仔，以牛油、迷迭香、蒜蓉涂抹好后放入炭火烤炉中烤一个半小时。出炉的猪仔脂肪已经被烤成半融化状态，猪皮浓香酥脆肉质香嫩多汁，入口即化。厨师会把整只烤乳猪切成好几份，盛在盘子里。一般还会配上小土豆。建议跟朋友分享，不然一个人吃一小份都会腻。
  3. Paella – 海鲜饭：瓦伦西亚 – 美食篇中已经介绍了paella，但那是没有海鲜的海鲜饭。在马德里终于吃到的超级正宗的有海鲜的海鲜饭。导游介绍说大多馆子的海鲜饭都是做一大锅，然后盛出一小份然后加热卖的，或者甚至是冷冻加热的。但这个是眼见着现场做的，我们三人一致认同这是吃过的最好吃的海鲜饭了！
  • La Campana 饭馆名
  • 1. Bocadillo de Calamares 炸鱿鱼圈三明治
  • Sobrino de Botín 饭馆名
  • Chef in the kitchen
    烤乳猪的后厨
  • 2. Cochinillo 烤乳猪
  • 3. Paella
    Inclan Brutal Bar的海鲜饭

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