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武汉

11 月 4, 2018 /

张之洞与武汉博物馆，是一处兼具历史厚度和文艺情怀的好去处。博物馆超级有设计感，让人感觉穿梭于历史与现实之间。

之后去了汉阳造艺术区，这里是废弃工业厂房改造的，随处可见涂鸦墙、雕塑和各种来拍照的小年轻儿，类似北京的798。完了去了晴川阁，“晴川历历汉阳树，芳草萋萋鹦鹉洲。日暮乡关何处是，烟波江上使人愁。”我真不记得小时候背过这首诗了。

武汉真是个随处都透着历史气息的城市。江汉路步行街，这里是曾经的英租界，整条街就是二十世纪建筑博物馆。黎黄陂路，曾经的汉口俄租界，巴公房子是这儿的标志性建筑。汉口江滩跟武昌汉阳江滩一起据说是世界上最大的城市内部公共休闲场所。

武大的校园还真是挺美的，正好赶上他们的田径运动会。东湖有五个西湖那么大。汉街就是很商业的一条街。光谷步行街的西班牙意大利德国风情街，时不时让我怀疑我是否在中国，不过大教堂是假的，里面放的是网游的现场视频。长江渡轮票超级便宜，才一块五，而且比陆上交通高效多了，载着游客和各种电动车，十分钟就从黄鹤楼到江汉关了。

湖北省博物馆，镇馆之宝之一曾侯乙编钟。湖北美术馆，与湖北博物馆隔着一条街。很有意思的展览，艺术气息浓厚。

据说四个胃也不够尝遍武汉的美食。武汉人把吃早餐叫过早，平时只出现在节日和生日中的“过”字，用在这里，显得既重视又随意。当地小吃店极为发达，大街小巷无处不在。武汉的早餐品种十分丰富，所以武汉人在清晨有外出吃早餐的习惯。千万别想在大名鼎鼎的户部巷吃到正宗武汉美食，建议去旁边的粮道街。

热干面：因为热干面方便快捷且美味，所以成了许多武汉人过早的首选。热干面在武汉街头巷尾随处可见，其不仅是武汉的特色美食，且在湖北的很多地方也都十分受欢迎。武汉人没有在家自己制作热干面的习惯，一是因为热干面的制作过程十分耗时，仅是碱水面过水淋油这个过程就要花费两、三小时的时间，家里自己做的小批量热干面效益不高；二是因为热干面在大街小巷均有销售，十分常见。热干面面身为碱水面，辅以芝麻酱、葱花、辣萝卜等各种配料。热干面在武汉较有名的店铺为蔡林记，李记，庞记等。武汉人通常就着热干面和鸡蛋米酒或者豆浆，便作为一顿过早。

面窝：创始于清光绪年间。从外观看上去就像是面饼微凹，味道咸香。因四周厚而中间薄得干脆成了一个小洞，呈凹状，武汉人不习惯叫它“面凹”，而叫它“面窝”。先用大米、黄豆混合磨成米浆，撒上黑芝麻，放到油锅里炸，很快就作出一个个边厚中空、色黄脆香的圆形米饼。类似西方的多纳圈。

油酥饼这东西其实哪儿都有，应该不算是武汉特有的小吃。这个涂记油酥饼店格外火爆，排大队才买到。现烤的热乎乎的，特别酥脆。仙豆糕也是全国哪儿都有，馋了买几个吃。

也是馋了买了蝴蝶酥、蛋挞、泡芙等。

三鲜豆皮：糯米和豆皮合作而成，以馅中有鲜肉、鲜蛋、鲜虾（或鲜肉、鲜菇和鲜笋）而得名。一般按方块分割，上面是一层金黄色的鸡蛋豆面皮，中间一层糯米，下面是各种笋丁肉丁豆丁。

桂花糊米酒：算是最平民的街头甜品之一了。里面有米酒、藕粉、还有糯米小丸子，再撒上桂花，甜甜粘粘的。

蛋酒：除了米酒/酒酿和白糖外，还打入一个新鲜鸡蛋搅散，用沸水冲开。一般搭配油条或者面窝吃。

苕面窝：舀一勺混有面糊的红薯（武汉称苕）丁放入铁勺，炸成圆圈状。

欢喜坨：其实跟麻团儿差不多。由糯米粉滚成圆团，再裹上一层芝麻炸熟而成，炸熟后外脆内软，外焦里嫩，色泽鲜艳，吃起来一声脆响后糖汁四溢，满嘴芝麻香。

五芳斋汤圆：老字号汤圆。

油饼包烧麦：我住在粮道街的这家网红店赵师傅油饼包烧麦对面，超多人排队买。店面不算特别大，右边主卖红油热干面，左边经营油饼包烧麦，中间摆了个发票收账的小台，点什么就给什么样的票。一个大油饼里装了四个烧麦。感觉是很诡异奇葩的搭配。

“士可杀，不可不过早”。经常可以看到端着纸碗穿过大街小巷过早的当地人，图二这样儿坐下吃的大叔算少有的。

白糖豆花：三镇民生甜食馆的白糖豆花不错。

糯米包油条：点了咸口儿的，但据说甜口儿的更地道。咸口儿的里面有土豆丝海带丝酸豆角和咸菜。甜口儿的有黄豆粉，芝麻，白糖，花生碎等。类似饭团。

鸡冠饺：大小如同一张普通油饼对折，因其形状如鸡冠而得名。里面馅儿是粉丝韭菜的。

糯米鸡：与鸡半点儿关系都没有，其实应该叫做油炸糯米饭团。糯米里有肉丁香菇青豆，外脆内鲜嫩。

酥饺：也跟饺子半点儿关系都没有。糯米吊浆粉后经过油炸，炸成金黄色，蘸上用糯米和白糖一块儿磨碎的糖霜，一口咬下去，甜甜的，外酥里软。

汽水包子：里面是糯米，放平底锅里煎炸出来的。和一般大包子并无太大区别，没什么特别的。

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