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中午从巴塞罗那坐火车去瓦伦西亚。西班牙大城市间的火车还是挺方便的,提前在网上买了火车票。火车邻座大叔一坐下,我就特好奇地看他手机壳上贴的日文的清酒贴纸,他看我在看就跟我聊了起来。原来他在一家日本电信公司工作,经常去日本出差,贴纸是日本朋友送给他的。之后又聊了很多旅游的事儿,还给我介绍了瓦伦西亚的传统paella,其实是没有海鲜的“海鲜饭”。他还翻短信推荐了几个他朋友推荐给他的馆子给我。
火车本来是三个半小时就应该到了的,结果还剩半个小时的时候突然让全车人都下车,说是有故障,让我们出站等公交车坐过去。出去等了快一个小时也没进展,问别的乘客也不知道怎么回事儿,我看没人抱怨,也都不着急的样子,我也就坐那儿等着了。最后乘务员终于让去瓦伦西亚的乘客坐下一辆火车,不知道剩下的乘客咋着了。这铁路运行得可真没谱儿。
火车晚点了快俩小时。沙发主提前发给我了他工作的地址,从火车站走过去10分钟就到。让我到了直接去他公司找他。因为在巴塞罗那无线网覆盖挺广的,就没买当地能上网的sim卡,在那儿的两三天也没觉得有什么太不方便的。但到了瓦伦西亚,发现没网不是很方便。我到了他公司,因为没网,联系不上我的沙发主,楼下保安大妈不是很友好,说她没电话能让我用来联系我的沙发主。无奈之下我直接上二楼,前台的小姑娘给我开了门然后叫我沙发主出来。我把我的大背包放他这儿就自己出去逛了。第一件事儿就是去当地的电信公司Orange办个电话卡,心想剩下在西葡还有10几天呢,还是买个电话卡比较好。需要用护照办卡,20欧15G西班牙葡萄牙都可以用。
办好了电话卡就可以踏实地出去逛逛了。瓦伦西亚这个城市的建筑真的很美,跟巴塞罗那比起来街上的人少很多。一路上去了Mercado del Colón当地市场,Puerta de la Mar,Plaza de Toros de Valencia 瓦伦西亚斗牛场等。逛的差不多到6点左右,沙发主也下班了可以带我在市中心走走然后吃个晚饭。这个沙发主在一个德国IT公司做程序员的工作,几年前去爱尔兰学英文并在那儿生活了几年,练了很多年武术,特别是巴西战舞capoeira。他一两年前跟我有着极其类似的经历,也辞了职去了很多地方旅行了快一年,就连去的国家都差不多。他说他现在的工作挺无聊的,他就打算存钱然后过一两年辞职再去旅行一段时间。
来西班牙三天已经慢慢习惯了所谓的“西班牙时间”,我指的不是时差,而是这儿的饭点儿。当地人晚饭时间基本都是八九点到半夜,所以晚上六七点想找个饭馆吃饭是不太可能的。我沙发主就边溜达边给我介绍一些地标性建筑,溜达到八点找个了tapa bar,完了又去了另一个tapa bar继续吃tapa。吃饱了之后溜达回他家,见了他的两只猫和一个室友。
今早参加了个瓦伦西亚的城市徒步游,了解了更多关于这个城市的历史及文化。瓦伦西亚的法雅节Falles是每年三月中旬以焚烧人偶的方式迎接春天的特色节庆。法雅节赶不上了,庆祝活动两周后开始。但今天正好碰上了一群竞选法雅小姐的候选人,导游说她们穿的每件丝绸的衣服要之少三千欧元。导游还讲解了关于这里的语言,巴塞罗那人说的西语是加泰罗尼亚语Catalan,但瓦伦西亚不太一样,他们的两种官方语言是西语跟瓦伦西亚语,大部分都差不多。这里的街道名称指示牌都有两种语言,即便有时两种语言是完全一样拼写的。大学选课的时候可以选授课语言。家里有可能跟妈妈说西语,跟爸爸说瓦伦西亚语,挺有意思的。
中央市场巨大,卖啥的都有,整个市场有两大部分,卖海鲜的跟主市场分开,怕串味儿。
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