塞维利亚 (2)
终于暖和到可以去晨跑了!这是这次旅行中的第一次跑,也是唯一一跑。完了去Catedral de Sevilla塞维利亚大教堂,网上查本来应该是11点开门收10欧门票的,但我8点路过其中一个门的时候,门口一乞丐撩开门说可以进去。因为每一个小时有礼拜仪式,都是当地人去的,而且还好我啥包儿都没带不像游客,所以进去参观了一圈没人收门票。省了门票钱,出来给了乞丐几欧,要不是他跟我说可以进去我也免不了门票的。里面感觉哪哪儿都像权力的游戏中的场景。
从大教堂出来跟昨晚饭馆认识的迈阿密姑娘去参观权力的游戏取景地之一Catedral de Sevilla塞维利亚王宫。还好开门前就去排队了。这里最初是座摩尔人的堡垒,在这儿可以同时看到哥特式建筑元素和伊斯兰粘土建筑风格。完了一起吃了午饭,我自己继续在城市里闲逛,去了Alameda de Hercules和Mercado de Feria市场。
日落前跟迈阿密姑娘一起去Las Setas de Sevilla 都市阳伞,是市中心的地标性建筑,像个巨型蘑菇云。这是世界上最大的木质建筑,设计及其独特,可谓是件艺术品了。除了地下的罗马和摩尔人的博物馆外,这里还有剧院、菜市场、酒吧和餐厅,而其最重要的功能是大众的休闲广场,建筑顶部的人行道能够欣赏到塞维利亚的全景。我俩从日落前一小时待到天慢慢黑了,欣赏到了梦幻灯光渲染下的迷人夜景。之后去吃晚饭,今天吃得不错,把当地人推荐的几个馆子都尝了个遍。
顺丰车上的当地人推荐我去个“免费”的观看弗拉明戈舞的酒吧,只要买喝的或者吃的就行,我一查发现不巧的是周一不营业。住的青旅前台小哥推荐了另一个类似的地方,于是我跟那个迈阿密姑娘一块儿去看弗拉明戈舞。桌对面坐着的是加拿大来的父女俩,刚去了葡萄牙玩,给我了很多推荐。
因为来的早,我们提前到占了个前排最佳位置,近距离欣赏了弗拉明戈舞表演。弗拉明戈的形成深受西班牙南部安达卢西亚地区的摩尔人和犹太人的影响,还吸收了大量吉普赛人的艺术元素。之前以为弗拉明戈只是舞蹈而已,今天才知道它包括舞者、演唱者和伴奏者三个元素。最初的弗拉明戈只包括清唱,后来加上了吉他伴奏,有节奏的拍手或踢踏,和配以舞蹈。伴奏乐器还包括舞者手中的响板儿。由于弗拉明戈艺术中有大量的悲愤、抗争、希望、和自豪的情绪宣泄,舞者和演唱者的表情极其丰富。迈阿密姑娘帮我翻译了些歌词大意。虽然大部分观众都是游客,当地人不太多,但还是感觉比去剧院看大舞台上的弗拉明戈有意思多了。这个表演给我在西班牙的最后一天画上了完美的句号。
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