旅行,  欧洲,  西班牙

龙达

第二次用顺风车软件从格拉纳达到龙达Ronda,除了车主还有另一个乘客一起拼车。一路上风景很美。车主是马德里人,但在南部的一个大学里读海洋历史学博士并助教教历史课。他在马德里读的本科、巴塞罗那读的研究生、挪威读的博士第一年。他家人基本都在龙达,所以他这周末开车来看家人和朋友。他用这个顺风车软件当车主已经十年了,载过很多本国人,也载过全世界各地来的旅行者。他也是沙发客软件的长期用户,他说他用这两个软件帮助他英语提高得很快。另一个乘客是个大学刚毕业的学旅游专业的在格拉纳达附近一个小镇的小姑娘,现在在自学法语并找工作,这次去龙达是去找她男朋友的,也是第一次去。她比我提前一些下车,我才坐到副驾驶位置。

在西班牙即便是坐后座也是要求系安全带的,不然会一直报警提示。大部分车都是手动挡的。车主跟那姑娘聊天的时候会自然地用西语聊,还问我是不是他的马德里的西语口音比南方口音更容易听懂?说得那么快跟机关枪似的甭管哪儿的口音我都听不懂啊!后来聊到西班牙的饮食和南北方文化语言饮食差异,他俩一致吐槽瓦伦西亚的各种米饭。感觉每个国家都有明显的南北方差异,而且都会互相吐槽。哈哈。

龙达Ronda悬崖小镇,诞生于罗马帝国时代,老城伫立在万丈悬崖峭壁之上。让它名声大噪的是斗牛士、土匪和卡门。在这个悬崖边的白色小镇上逛的时候正好赶上日落时分,壮美得令人窒息,被海明威称为全世界最合适私奔的处所,到处都弥漫着浪漫的气息。

游走在当地居民住的区域,美得另有一番风味。

越往南吃得越好还越来越便宜。晚上在新的城市一个人去了顺风车车主推荐的tapa bar。喝的便宜,tapa更便宜,一份tapa才九毛钱,又正宗。真不知道他们是怎么赚钱的,特别佩服服务员酒保的超能记忆力,忙到不可开交还是记得每个人点的什么,加了什么菜。这家店八点半开门五分钟之内爆满,除了我好像都是当地人,坐在旁边的老夫妇和他们女儿一点儿英文都不会,但还是很热情地跟我聊天。他们也是热爱旅游的,2013年还去过北京和西安玩儿,对中国印象特别好。他们走了又补上来一波儿二十出头的年轻人,也超级热情。我只随便问了一下他们点的其中一个小菜是什么而已,他们全都直接把那盘小菜推给我让我尝。我说不用,我会自己点一份儿,他们硬是拦着我让我尝他们点的。我尝了一个还不行,他们还特别诚心地让我把第二个也吃掉。。。真是热情难挡啊。

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