南美洲,  厄瓜多尔,  旅行

基多 (1)

6 月 13, 2021 /

暑假这么长一定不能闲着，决定去厄瓜多尔🇪🇨。决定来这儿的原因很简单，一个月前搜到了张超便宜的机票，还有个原因就是给中国公民少有的免签证，而且还接受新冠疫苗证明。来之前知道首都Quito海拔很高，将近3000米，果真昨晚到机场刚下飞机走到海关没几步就感觉到了轻微的高反症状-头疼气喘。打车去沙发主家已经大半夜了，打车前用机场无线网跟沙发主说了大概的到达时间，但到了之后没网联系不上他，他住的小区有个大门也进不去。等了半天终于看见街上有个人，我请他帮忙用他手机给我沙发主打电话，他这才下来开大门，上三层楼气喘的更明显的体验到高反了。他姐姐帮我铺好床大家就赶紧休息了。

早上起了第一件事儿就是去买手机卡，问了好几次路才找到卖手机卡的店，但因为是周日很多店都开门很晚。于是我先去吃早饭，经老板娘推荐点了muchines de yuca木薯奶酪球和empanada炸馅饺。去过的很多西语国家的炸馅饺都有所不同，但大部分都是面皮很厚炸完很脆的。厄瓜多尔的炸馅饺跟我以往吃的区别最大，又叫empanada de viento (风)-像风一样轻薄的炸馅饺，口感完全不一样，就着aji酱(类似salsa的微辣的酱)吃。点的咖啡直接上了一杯开水，自己加桌上的浓咖啡和糖。结账的时候服务员收了钱，马上用消毒水喷在现金上消毒，这我还是第一次见。再顺便普及下：全世界有三个国家的官方货币是美元，除了美国，还有巴拿马和厄瓜多尔，由于货币贬值得厉害，他们在2000年决定使用美元，但硬币还是自己国家的。

吃完早饭、买了电话卡，去Quito北边的Mitad del Mundo世界中心。厄瓜多尔Ecuador的西语意思是赤道，这个纪念碑前面地上画着条黄线，若两脚分跨两边按说就表示同时站在南北两个半球，但这个称为“世界中心“的赤道纪念碑其实名不副实，真正的赤道实际位于这里往北两三百米，是因为很多年前天文学家划定时还没有今天先进的科学测量技术。不过网上还有很多别的说法，说不清赤道是线、条儿、点、还是圈儿。

这个纪念碑景点儿全是人工的，说实话没啥意思，溜达一圈出来去更北边不远的Pululahua火山盆地自然保护区，一进门就能在观景台看到整个盆地的全景，像个世外桃源，下山进村子路上比较泥泞，Quito夏天基本每天都在下小雨。下到群山包围的村子里，绕着村子慢慢转了一圈，这里特别静谧，随处可见放养的鸡牛羊猪马。午饭随便找了户当地的农家，老板娘很热情的出来给我介绍他家的菜，还说可以帮我做半份caldo de callina鸡汤和半份fritada。Fritada是这儿常见的一盘菜，里面有炸猪肉、煮的黏玉米、炸的玉米豆、奶酪、炸芭蕉片等，每家的原料也有可能有些出入。吃完午饭就要开始从盆地往外爬了，预料到因为高海拔爬山会比较挑战，每走一步都喘，头又开始疼。高反要能像得水痘一样，经历一次之后就不会再发生了那该多好，别说什么去过西藏这都不算什么！离开这里时终于看见了点儿蓝天，回到沙发主家送他了一块儿旧金山带来的巧克力以表感谢，他跟她姐妹很开心，当时就瓜分完了。

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