北美洲,  墨西哥,  旅行

墨西哥城 (3)

4 月 9, 2021 /

来墨西哥城的第三天才去了市中心。一出地铁就看到了国家宫殿、大都会教堂和大神庙。广场上有很多全副武装的武警，估计又要有个游行示威啥的了。

去了一个Mercado Presidente Abelardo L. Rodriguez市场，门外有很多人在排队买tamales和atole。atole是这儿传统的早餐热饮，用玉米或米做的，挺浓的。一般会就着tamales或甜面包吃，有巧克力或其他水果口味儿的。这个市场里还有几幅巨型墙画，是墨西哥著名画家Diego Rivera (Frida的丈夫)的学生画的。

去了Mercado Merced市场，这是我去过的最大型的当地市场了，占了好几个街区，室外摆摊儿的部分人潮汹涌、摩肩接踵的。想吃这儿特有的蓝玉米面做的饼tlacoyo，但逛了很久都找不着，问了五六家商贩，第一个说我们这儿没人卖这个，第二三个说好像有，然后给我指了个方向，第四个指着马路对面的另一个市场说那儿有，到了另一个市场终于有个商贩知道，她跟她女儿说了特别清楚的指令，然后她女儿带我去找到了这儿唯一一个卖tlacoyo的小店。tlacoyo是椭圆型的用蓝玉米masa做的面饼，里面可以有奶酪或者fava豆子，还可以加五花肉皮、蘑菇、仙人掌等。老板娘还特意揪了一颗蓝玉米豆给我看，他们把蓝玉米豆磨成粉，再做成新鲜的面饼。后来在看到街上摆摊儿的也有卖这个的，又尝了蓝玉米面做的夹蘑菇的quesadilla，这跟美国的形状差不多，只是没有奶酪。来之前听好几个当地人都说这个区域不安全，很多偷窃抢劫的。但我看这儿附近街区全都是卖菜卖水果卖吃的小贩，有什么好偷的啊？哈哈。

之后又去看了几个标志性建筑：改革纪念碑、中国城(基本全是墨西哥饭馆跟商店)、艺术宫殿、三种瓷砖的房子、邮政宫殿、拉丁美洲大厦和Garibaldi广场。这儿的Francisco I. Madero大街类似王府井步行街、政府大楼就是中南海、宪法广场就是天安门广场。在市中心商业区路过了一个眼镜店，心想隐形眼镜要过期了，美国的太贵，国内淘宝订的货还压在海关呢，一看这个店的店名是中国名字，要不要进去问问这儿可不可以不用医生处方就可以买隐形眼镜，如果是中国人开的交流会容易些。进去发现一个中国人都没有，只能硬着头皮用西语问他们是否有隐形眼镜，还真的不需要处方哦，价格也比美国便宜很多。于是买了三个月够用的。还好今天买了，特别巧的时候第二天一大早戴隐形的时候丢了一个，怎么也找不着了。要是没买有富余的，只能带框架了。

去当地有名的店El Moro吃了churro，然后又排大队吃了tacos de canasta。canasta的意思是篮子，因为最初商贩会骑着自行车，后座上架着个大篮筐，里面装着在家准备好了的taco出去卖。这是最便宜的一种taco，因为馅料极其简单，有五花肉皮、回锅煎豆泥、土豆泥等。准备时要一个挨一个地放篮筐里、码得整整齐齐的，再浇上热油盖上，这样玉米面饼不会变硬。走在大街上又尝了个椰子糖。在市中心走了一天，发现每个街口基本上都有卖taco或者各种小吃的，完全不用愁会饿。

晚上见了个当地朋友，他做了10年的墨西哥美食介绍采访饭馆的节目，在YouTube上的视频访问量挺高的，也上过很多当地电台，估计也小有名气吧。他说他的目标就是把墨西哥美食发扬光大。但他对中国却是一无所知的，由于当地的大多数中国馆子都是西方化了的自助中餐，他对真正的中国美食也完全不了解。我给他介绍了下羊肉串、火锅、烤鸭、包子饺子啥的，听得他极其有兴趣。他说去年疫情之后很多饭馆停业了，没法儿采访饭馆做节目了。于是他开始打算拍一部关于全球环境问题的纪录片。聊完跟他去了旁边的一个公园，有很多人在露天跳salsa舞，程度各异，每首歌完毕有些人还会换舞伴，大家基本都戴着口罩跳舞。朋友教了我些基本步伐，给我介绍那儿的一位拉丁舞老师，是个会说几句中文的在德国居住很、但来墨西哥又不想走了的日本人。这儿跳舞的很多外国人都是在这儿长期生活居住的。

完了他带我去吃他觉得附近最好吃的tacos la pastor，可惜没有昨晚的那个好吃。回到沙发主家，他买了瓶tequila龙舌兰酒，他知道我一般不喝酒，但又说我来墨西哥不能不尝他们有名的taquila，我就尝了一丁点儿。沙发主喝了会儿，本来挺内向的一人突然打开话匣子了。

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