La Paz, Todos Santos
从Cabos到La Paz路上路过一个沿海小镇Todos Santos，青旅前台小哥的英文口音很熟，一问果真是爱尔兰人。听我说我上个月刚去了那儿，他很兴奋。放下行李之后去小镇里走走。路过个据说给了老鹰乐队灵感而让他们创作了《加州旅馆》这首歌，因为歌词描述的跟这儿附近的景色很像，但其实好像并不属实，是传言而已。上网一查有意思的是这个加州旅馆的创建人竟是位早期中国移民，1950年建成后他和他的夫人和七个女儿住在这里。为了让当地人相信他是墨西哥当地人，他还改了个墨西哥名字，但好笑的是当地人都不叫他改后的名字，而是管他叫“El Chino”（那个中国人）。2001年一对加拿大夫妇买下了这个旅馆，重新装修改建了。Todos Santos是个颜色鲜艳的小镇，夕阳下到处都很美。
早上沿着一路的土路走到海滩最南端Punta Lobos，这里有很多渔船，问了渔民才找到了上山的徒步小道。山顶上景色极美，海岸线像蕾丝花边一样。之后又回到镇上徒步到海滩的另一端，穿过了个海边酒店才找到下海滩的路。再回到镇上吃午饭，近距离看到场大火，还好只是棕榈树着火了，并无人员伤亡，救火车很快就来了把火扑灭了。回到青旅取行李时听到一对法国夫妇问前台有没有推荐的饭馆，我马上推荐给他们我这两天吃的好吃的，之后他们顺路载我去小镇中心的大巴车站坐车去La Paz。
今年圣诞节没有什么特别的庆祝活动，一不小心就跟鲸鲨合了个影。两天前在Cabo认识的湾区小哥强烈建议我在La Paz一定要报了个浮潜团去看鲸鲨whale shark，他一周前在这儿因为天气不好风太大，没看成，昨天特意又回来看。近距离接触鲸鲨简直太震撼太神奇了！离得这么近录像并不害怕，只能感受到震撼，但就怕被大尾巴抽到。大家时刻准备着，该往下跳时就得马上跳。大鲸鲨游得快赶也赶不上。
这视频是纯运气意料之外拍的。浮潜一船十人都上船了，因为船上厕所不能用，导游说大海就是天然厕所，要上厕所的跳进去上。于是我和另外俩女孩儿脱了潜水服，跳进海里方便一下。我跳到船的一边，她俩在另一边。没多久就见一只鲸鲨冲我游了过来，我本来是让船上另一个游客帮着照张相的，后来才知道他其实录了视频。这估计是第一次边上厕所边被众人观看再加被录像吧。
言归正传，今天学了很多新知识，介绍下鲸鲨：鲸鲨属于鱼类，有着鲨鱼一般的鱼鳍（背部和尾巴），体型和鲸鱼一样庞大，通常为9-12米，最长可达20米，是世界上最大的鱼类。寿命可达70-100年。鲸鲨是滤食动物，以浮游生物、巨大的藻类、磷虾与小型的自游动物（例如小型乌贼与脊椎动物）为食，不食人。鲸鲨的游动速度缓慢，常漂浮在水面上晒太阳。所有的鲨鱼都没有骨头！！！只由软骨构成，虽然没有骨头，但他们死后软骨也会形成化石，是因为软骨长年以来吸收了很多钙盐以强化软骨，牙齿里有珐琅质所以也会形成化石。鲸鲨背部鳞片以下的皮肤厚度最高可达 10 厘米，有一种橡胶的质感，可以抵御其他捕食者的攻击。
La Paz沿海的步行道上每隔几条街就会看到青铜的海洋雕塑，日落景色也很美。这儿的沙发主是墨西哥城人，但因为更喜欢这里，所以几年前搬了过来，现在在一家咖啡店做咖啡，同时在读最后一年的海洋生物学，疫情以来他们的课一直都是网上上的。他选择学习海洋生物学是因为他特别喜欢鲨鱼，想研究如何更好地保护鲨鱼和其生存环境。他说他很少吃这儿无处不在的fish taco，因为很多地儿用的都是鲨鱼肉。他墨西哥基本所有的地方都去过了，但他一直在攒钱希望能去别的国家旅游。跟之前那个沙发主一样，除了小区外面有个大门，他家也是从来不锁门的。听我说去浮潜看鲸鲨，很慷慨地说可以借我他的GoPro水下录影，太感谢他了。
下午看鲸鲨回来跟前几天在Cabo认识的湾区小哥碰头吃饭。圣诞夜很多当地饭馆都提前关门，甚至一些饭馆会休假一直到新年才会重新开门。我们去了个饭馆，但他们圣诞夜有个专门的有限的菜单，很多我们想点的菜都没有，于是我们就先只点了一个，决定完了再去别的馆子吃点儿别的。结果完了去了六七个当地人推荐的馆子，全关门了，所以兜了一大圈又回来了。
据说Balandra是墨西哥Baja California Sur最美的海滩，坐船经过感受不到有多美，第二天早上跟朋友爬山到上面看到全景才能感受到。
一路上遇到的当地人和好几个游客都跟我说Loreto离La Paz要四五个小时，太远，而且很小没什么可玩的，不值得去。于是决定不去Loreto了，改道搭湾区小哥的车往南去Cabo Pulmo。这儿是墨西哥有名的国家海洋公园和潜水圣地，他来这儿就是专门为了潜水的。据说建立这个国家公园保护区以前，这里的鱼类被过度捕捞导致很多海洋生物数量骤减濒临灭绝，于是政府决定禁止所有鱼类捕捞，十几年之后慢慢各种鱼类大量繁殖数量大增，海洋生态系统恢复，从而让这里成为了有名的潜水圣地。朋友昨晚在海滩上露营，我就凑合睡他车里。今早他去潜水，我去爬山，一路上看到很多仙人掌和蝴蝶。
吃完午饭我们载上他潜水团遇到的另一个阿根廷姑娘，她一路在墨西哥搭便车旅行。问她旅行多久了，竟然从22岁离开阿根廷到现在已经13年了。这些年边旅游边制作手链项链等手工艺品摆摊儿赚钱，或者街头表演杂技，或者卖自己专业摄影制作的明信片等。去年她决定长期在墨西哥的Tulum居住，租了房子、申请了墨西哥居民证，她说这儿给了她家的感觉。她说她22岁开始到处旅游时也没想到会旅行这么多年，但一开始就收不住了。很难想象13年一直在路上是什么感觉。
明早湾区小哥要一路往北开回北加州，问我要不要不坐大后天的飞机了，改一路跟他开回去。想想这一路停停歇歇的要开两三天，还是算了吧，于是我再回La Paz和Cabo San Lucas待两天。这位湾区小哥在菲律宾出生长大到12岁移居加州，跟我一样也是2018年辞职，他背包旅行了一年半，经常参加多天（10-20天）的背包露营徒步，光尼泊尔就去了两次，徒步到珠峰大本营。感觉他能参加那种野外生存的节目了。今日一别，回加州见。
在La Paz的最后一天，昨晚吃得太多，早上天还没亮就去跑步腾点儿肚子出来。之后在海滩边上的遮阳棚下睡了一小觉。然后漫无目的地在街上逛逛，有很多好看的壁画。
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