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京都到处都充满着日本古迹气息。今天去参观有着千年历史的神社Fushimi Inari-taisha 伏见稻荷大社。昨晚在青旅认识了个深圳的小姑娘, 会日语,在一个日本公司工作,经常来日本出差。约着正好一起去伏见稻荷大社。这儿真得早来,我们大清早就到了,不然的话只能看人山人海了。经过了楼门和本殿,没多久就到了登山入口,登山的一路上路过几个神社,越往上环境越清幽,周围都是树林。这一路往上爬体力必须充足,台阶还真多,爬到顶出了不少汗。那小姑娘爬了一半儿没坚持爬到顶。不过人家常来日本出差,不差这次的,呵呵。
下山出来,附近有个小吃一条街,我跟朋友一起吃了铜锣烧、章鱼小丸子等。在国内或者美国,在街上边走边吃挺常见的,但在日本街头,很少见到有人边走边吃,地铁里也不可以吃东西。这是为什么呢?听朋友说在日本很注重餐桌礼仪,站着吃东西或者边走边吃,属于没有礼貌没有教养的行为。还有一个原因就是边走边吃时食物有可能会掉在地上弄脏街道。但在庙会、美食街、大型室外活动的话,一般大家都是边走边吃的。但朋友告诉我最好在哪儿买的吃的就站在店旁边吃完,垃圾退还给卖吃的的店,不然你会发现在日本街头很少看到垃圾箱,这也是不提倡人们边走边吃一项举措吧。但据说现在很多日本的年轻人没有老一辈人素质高了,偶尔也会看到年轻人在地铁里或街上吃便当的。还有,边走路边抽烟也是很没礼貌的,警察看到会罚款的,抽烟只能找带贩卖烟机的旁边有弹烟灰的地方或者便利店或者专门抽烟的房子里面去抽。所以在日本逛街的时候还是尽量避免边走边吃,入乡随俗吧。
下午朋友有事儿得回青旅,于是我便一个人去了金阁寺Kinkaku-ji(又名鹿苑寺Rokuon-ji)。金阁寺,顾名思义,真的是铺满金箔的寺庙。寺内有个回游式庭园,中心是镜湖池。金阁在湖中的倒影极美,可惜有点儿阴天,照不出来效果。出了金阁寺,坐公交去京都御所Imperial Palace。在明治天皇移居东京之前,这儿一直是历代天皇居住的皇居。比较特别的是这个御所大多以碎石铺地,所以最好穿舒服的鞋来参观。这里的御池庭也很美。
之后去了Nishiki锦市场,听名字第一反应是北京的秀水街(Silk Market),其实是有名的“京都后厨房”。锦市场是属于“室内商店街型”的,雨天也不用害怕要撑伞吃东西很麻烦。这里有有名的炸奶油马铃薯天妇罗、豆乳甜甜圈、麻薯、烤鲷鱼串、玉子烧、章鱼蛋、寿司、可乐饼、各种酱菜等。可惜刚在伏见稻荷大社的小吃一条街吃爆了,在这儿只有看的份儿了。除了小吃,这儿还有新鲜生鱼海鲜、时令蔬果、日常用品、工艺品和纪念品。真的很喜欢类似锦市场的这种地道、充满生活气息的当地市场。
晚上回祗园跟朋友会合去吃晚饭。来京都,怎能错过抹茶甜点?于是晚饭之后又去了个抹茶店吃了抹茶软雪糕,秒杀之前吃过的所有抹茶冰淇淋。这儿的抹茶味道极为浓郁,很纯正的绿色,很多其他甜点做得极其精致,像工艺品一样。吃完甜品在街上闲逛,听到一个街头乐队的演奏,驻足观看了一会儿,没多会儿观众中就有一对儿舞伴自愿上前伴舞,为乐队添色不少,我也为他们的舞姿所感染。
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