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京都 (1)
离开了大农村福井进城去京都。对京都初印象还挺好的,入住了青旅,在附近祗(qí)园Gion(京都艺伎区)逛了一晚。这里的代表性建筑是祗园歌舞剧场。走在街上看到很多穿着租借的和服的游客,偶尔能看到真正的艺伎,脚上穿着木屐、迈着小碎步、脸上的妆容格外精致。后来听说最好不要随意给艺伎拍照,不知真正的原因是什么。这条街上有很多私宅和祈福的庭院。
晚上去了两个馆子,第一个是专门卖大煎蛋饼的,里面加了各种各样的料。之后我两在回青旅的路边小馆又点了份鳗鱼饭。
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第二天一早在青旅附近找了家早餐店,点了朋友说来日本一定要尝尝的生鸡蛋酱油拌饭。日本人真的是喜欢吃黏糊糊的食物,昨天早饭吃的纳豆(发酵的黄豆)也是黏糊糊的。第一次听说生鸡蛋直接拌饭吃的时候还有点儿担心,但这其实在日本很普遍也很受欢迎。为什么日本人敢吃生鸡蛋拌饭呢?因为日本的鸡蛋都是无菌鸡蛋,是经过专业手段饲养的鸡下的蛋,有严格的安全标准,保质期只有十天左右。日本吃生鸡蛋是常态,而国内却不会生吃。而且很明显能看出这儿的鸡蛋的颜色特别鲜艳,橘黄色都发红。所以把生鸡蛋倒在热乎乎的米饭上,再加上一点儿日式酱油,搅拌之后就可以直接吃了。尝了之后发现没有想象中的那么不可接受,但也说不上有多好吃,尝尝鲜就好。吃完早饭坐地铁去岚山,感觉地铁里超级干净,很有秩序,地铁系统也很发达,方便乘坐。
到了岚山放眼望去到处都是绿色, 爬山途中经过个特别幽静大河内山庄Ōkōchi Sansō,这是一个日本哑剧演员在岚山生前的住所和花园。这儿包括书房、寺庙和茶室,从这儿可以看到京都全景。因为参观是需要买门票的,门票里包括了抹茶和小点心。从山庄出来就能看到京都岚山著名的竹林,身处竹林中,感觉确实很壮观,可惜黄金周游客太多了,照片里人头攒动。
岚山里有一个Iwatayama Monkey Park猴子公园,爬了好多节台阶才到顶能看到猴子。这儿的猴子们都被喂得肥得无法自拔了,各种丑态尽显。游客们反而在个大笼子里喂猴子,猴子在笼子外上蹿下跳的。
来岚山之前没料到有这么多的路要走,一整天穿着人字拖徒步加爬山一共三万步,人字拖还没坏就证实了质量还不错。回去一路上的夜景也很美。
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