香港, 澳门
深圳到香港坐高铁20分钟就到了,真的太方便了。入住青旅,发现这个青旅是我旅行这几个月来住的最烂的一个了,除了环境差、空间小等缺点,服务也特别差劲儿。我订错了一晚,网上明明说的是可以提前退款,但他们死活不退。整个大楼的电梯也很诡异,只在某几层停,从中间楼层上电梯只能下不能上。放好行李,去了周边的Mong Kok旺角,感觉脑海里浮现出很多港片儿的镜头,还去逛了花园街街市。中午见了一个多月前在曼谷认识的香港朋友,请我去了家马来西亚馆子,吃了鱼排面套餐。吃过午饭,去逛了Nathan Rd、油麻地 Yau Ma Tei、尖沙咀、九龙公园、香港文化中心和庙街。晚饭跟另一个当地沙发主去吃了点点心的早茶,一整天啥时候都可以吃到早茶的,呵呵。之后去了天星码头看维多利亚港的夜景。香港的地铁票还是挺贵的,买八达通卡方便些。最近意识到香港台湾等地的地铁都没有安检,难道只有首都北京这么严格吗?
第二天早上坐渡轮去香港岛中环,车多人多路窄吃的又贵,街道设计建设得不太合理,走路逛要各种绕来绕去的,感觉我很难适应这种国际大都市的环境了。街上能看到很多特别窄的双层公交。去了中环国际金融中心、喝了有名的兰芳园奶茶、路过了警署和兰桂坊。下午跟昨天午饭见的香港朋友和他的朋友去狮子山爬山。我们在黄大仙站集合坐公交,湿气特重,浑身湿的好彻底,雾大得基本啥都看不见,不过能远离人群几个小时也不错。爬上回来跟这群人一块儿去彩虹村吃晚饭。
第三天坐地铁去怪兽大厦,快下地铁时听到报站的,才突然恍然大明白《下一站天后》的意思,“天后”原来是地铁站的站名儿。怪兽大厦在Quarry Bay下车,《变形金刚4》是在这儿取景的,大楼三面环绕在一起,抬头只剩一线天了,密集恐惧症的人在这儿肯定难受,无法想象住在里面的居民的日常生活是什么样的。午饭吃了鲜虾云吞面,然后去龙脊Dragon’s Back爬山,去的途中坐公交遇到了个澳大利亚家庭,到了又搭伴一起徒步。爬山下来到了赤柱Stanley,是个海边城镇,这里有很多外国人在这儿工作生活。今天在龙脊、龙虎山、赤柱,和街头巷尾能看到很多遛狗锻炼或者带着好几个小孩儿的外国人。回到市里去了皇后街,昨天听香港朋友说每周日能看到各种东南亚劳工、菲佣在街上野餐,今天果真看见了,过街天桥上也有,真的是街头巷尾无所不在,都在最繁华的品牌商业街上,直接用大纸盒箱子铺开了野餐,鞋脱了放路边,还有跳舞唱卡拉OK的。很多路口都被他们堵的水泄不通的。真长见识了!
下午去了平民米其林三星饭馆添好运 Tim Ho Wan:下午三四点了还要排队等下午茶,在这儿吃了最好吃的叉烧包。之后坐公交去太平山顶后面的龙虎山爬山,等到天慢慢变黑看夜景。回到青旅附近,去了重庆大厦。这里有很多印度人站里面要换钱什么的,没敢进去。晚饭在“十八座狗仔”吃了咖喱鱼丸、还吃了北角鸡蛋仔和海记喳咋的芋头薏米。
早上从香港去澳门坐渡轮买票时又遇到了个态度恶劣的,就因为我说普通话用支付宝,他就写着一脸的厌恶和不耐烦吗?之前听香港朋友说大陆游客在这边儿真的会被歧视,说普通话还不如说英文,接受到的服务会好些。在香港这三天遇到的大部分香港人还算友善吧,但偶尔能感受到不友好的态度。昨天坐小巴车去龙虎山,一车人都是用粤语喊要下车了师傅就会停车。最后只剩我一个人了,普通话喊下车好几次直接被忽略,过了站了还接着猛开,我只能跑司机边上跟他大喊“我要下车”,还是完全不鸟我,服了!然后我就用英语说要下车,他才把车停下来。停了之后我用普通话问他去龙虎山怎么走,他就用普通话回答我了,合着您听的懂啊!?
澳门这大半天下来遇到的各种服务业的还是很友好的,说普通话跟说英语没有被区别对待,只要不是在游客观光区,物价比香港一下低了很多。到了氹仔(Taipa)码头下了渡轮一问得知可以坐赌场酒店免费大巴去城区,到了澳门银河酒店刚下车我就马上感受到我这一身行头是多么的格格不入。边上都是只带了个大钱夹子的男士,要么就是背着名牌包包踩着高跟鞋的女士。就我穿着牛仔裤运动衣背个大背包进酒店,只是为了存行李的。酒店内外就是拉斯维加斯重现。
氹仔官也街周边的葡式建筑还是很有特色的,吃了有名的安德鲁葡式蛋挞和莫义记木糠布丁。之后看了龙环葡韵住宅和威尼斯人度假酒店。之后又坐公交去了黑沙滩,这儿真是名副其实的黑沙滩,沙子还真的很黑。但之前台湾垦丁的白沙滩不是白的却并不是白色的。在这儿吃了猪扒包。
在澳门暴走了一天,走到实在走不动了就蹭酒店的免费大巴坐。坐酒店大巴去关闸,竟然没有寄存行李的地儿,问了几家小店,最后一家美容店老板说免费帮我寄存。之后去了大三巴牌坊,一直纳闷儿怎么叫“大三巴牌坊”这么过耳不忘的名字,原来“三巴”是São Paulo的粤语音译。这里的街上有很多各种点心饼干试吃,之后去了玫瑰圣母堂和渔人码头,这里街上的很多建筑都很欧式,感觉直接穿越到罗马了。最后做酒店大巴去关闸,用剩下的澳元买了面包和点心,找到寄存行李的店,赶忙去过关赶火车,时间特别紧。
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