San Cristóbal de las Casas (3)
用照片记录下San Cristóbal这个小城的美。每天晚上6点到10点，很多原住民会在市中心的Plaza de la Paz广场上整整齐齐地摆满卖手工艺品的摊位，天主教堂前面则是卖小吃的摊位。基本上从来不买纪念品的我，也是忍不住喜爱买了个有着几何图形的彩色的小包儿。在市中心随便走走都能看到色彩鲜艳的街道和装饰。在Plaza 31 de Marzo公园广场附近曾看到过有着改装车的“蝙蝠侠”，也看到过身着民族服饰、盛装打扮的和游客照相的姑娘，之后某天路过时还看到了蝙蝠侠的对头小丑，两人坐蝙蝠车里闲聊。
某天中午出去吃完饭，不知不觉走到了坐落在山上的San Cristóbal教堂最下面的台阶前，既然都但这儿了，就往上爬消消食儿吧。爬到最上面很挺累的，在上面看着城市全景，安静地待了一个小时，想清楚了一些事儿。这儿有好几个当地集市，其中几个也是规模大、场面极其壮观，一眼望去能看到各种颜色鲜艳的水果蔬菜或手工艺品。某天在一个菜市场里，正好赶上一大家子人摆了好几张大长桌聚会，还有乐队在旁边演奏。
街上走几不了步就是个饭馆，街角还经常有卖早餐、卖切好了的新鲜水果或鲜榨果汁的小贩。连着两天去了同一家很受当地人欢迎的小馆子，里面座儿不多，因为大部分人都是叫外卖带走。他们做的全是传统的墨西哥当地大锅菜，根本就没菜单点菜。如果外卖的话，要排队隔着玻璃点菜，跟国内大学食堂似的。他们每天有几个固定的菜，但剩下的每天都会换。去的两天他们都很忙，只有一个服务员，但老板和服务员态度都特别好，我挨个儿问他们是什么菜的时候，他们很耐心地告我，还答应了我不寻常的拼盘要求，这样我可以多尝一个菜。这几天还去了在哥斯达黎加认识的鼠鼠姐推荐的有很好吃的法棍的面包店，和热巧克力churros炸甜油条店。
在San Cristóbal的这一周都住在一家在市中心边缘的小旅店。门面和门牌都特别小，差点儿找不着放弃了。好不容易找到了敲门还没人开，还好只等了五分钟，老板和老板娘开车过来，停好车给我开门进去。原来他俩不住这儿，他们住开车20分钟外山里的农场房子里。每次客人第一次来都得提前告他们大概到达时间，这样他们能提前来开门。这几天有时碰到他们，跟他们聊天时得知老板是委内瑞拉人，老板娘智利人，14年前搬来墨西哥的其他城市，4年前搬来这个城市开了旅店。最初他搬来墨西哥的原因是因为对玛雅日历感兴趣，所以来研究学习玛雅日历和他们的文化历史。除了开旅店，他还弹吉他、并在一个意大利餐馆演奏音乐。老板娘是一所大学的植物学老师，现在也是暑假，所以有时间打理旅店。
他们所有的四间客房都在二层，有个大厨房、客厅和后院。上周日到这儿时我是这儿四个房间里唯一的住客，前三晚就我一个人住。前几天旁屋来了三个智利人，但其中那个男的在墨西哥的Oaxaca生活六年了。我刚开始以为另外两个女的是他的朋友，但他说是他妈和她妈的伴侣。她们从智利来Oaxaca看儿子，然后来这儿玩几天。他们人都很好，我们有时在客厅碰见会一起吃水果。
有两天想找人出去一块儿吃饭，在沙发客软件上认识了另外两个挺有意思的人，这两人也是老师，因为现在是暑假，这一路上遇到了太多了老师了。第一个人是美国威斯康星州的，但他不在美国十几年了，大学刚毕业就跟女朋友一块儿去上海教书教了五年，然后韩国三年，现在住在泰国，在网上教中国学生兴趣阅读课。
前天认识的另一个人是墨西哥城来旅游两周的教高中学习方法习惯课的老师，很有用的学科，但从没听说美国哪个学校有的。他五年前一直是自由职业者，给一些政府教育组织设计课程，为了安稳的职业和政府福利，五年前选择去学校当老师。我是当学校老师腻了，想做自由职业者呢。哎，这真是围城啊！我俩晚上在市中心边溜达边聊了两个多小时，聊渴了坐下喝了点儿东西。这儿的夜晚还是挺热闹的，酒吧饭馆很多人，有街头音乐演奏，中心公园还有跳舞的。这一晚上在街上遇到了很多原住民会走过来问要不要买他们的东西，他们胳膊上搭着手工艺品(衣服、围巾、手绳、项链等)或鲜花等。大半夜了还遇见了好几个小孩儿一个人在街上贩卖小商品。有时在餐馆里咖啡馆里坐着的时候，他们也会进来一桌一桌推销。我是不会买东西的，但每次看见他们向我走来，心里还是挺不好受的。我跟朋友聊到这儿、美国和中国的贫富差距问题。
这几天发现这个城市有很多装潢设计很美、氛围很好的咖啡馆和饭馆。很多咖啡馆有室外的露台或大庭院，昨天下午带着电脑去了个环境超级好的咖啡馆工作，一杯咖啡不到两美元，一整个下午估计也就不到10个客人来过，不知道他们是如何负担得起高额的营业成本维持经营的。而且像很多城市一样，听说这儿跟多年前相比已慢慢地被高档化了：看起来很高档小资的咖啡馆、饭店、酒店。但感觉竞争一定会很激烈，很多馆子看起来都很空，好像供大于求。
今天又跟这个朋友见面吃饭，我去取款机取钱他在旁边等我的时候，有个大妈卡退不出来了，让他帮忙，往外拉了半天出不了，我也鼓秋了半天，最后往里推一下就出来了。然后旁边一个大姐问他怎么用卡取钱，我觉得挺奇怪，竟然她没用过银行卡取钱。我朋友超耐心，一步步帮她把钱取出来之后，又进来个小哥，我眼看着他把新的银行卡从信封里拿出来，撕掉贴纸，然后问我朋友怎么取钱。他帮了至少三四个这样的人之后我们终于从银行那儿出来了。他说他们不会用银行卡取钱，是因为这些卡是政府补给发给低收入人群的，他们估计之前一辈子都没有过银行账户。还是又回到了贫富差距的问题上。
中午跟朋友吃完饭，回旅店拿行李，跟房东道别。言语已无法表达我对这个小城的喜爱了，但今天离开的时候一点儿都不伤感，因为确定我是会再回来的。
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