North America,  Mexico,  Travel

Week 4 in Oaxaca

November 27, 2022 /

I recently went to a language partner exchange meeting, and most of the people who went there were native English speakers. The guy sitting next to me was an American guy. After hearing that I was Chinese, he began to speak fluent Chinese to me. He is from Tennessee, and my parents and I are still alumni of universities in the United States. He said that he only took Chinese classes for one semester in college. Afterwards, he became interested in Chinese and has been self-studying. He passed the HSK Level 5 test. He knows all the popular words such as "996", and he also said that he is an "egg" - the outside is white. Yes, but the inside is yellow. He had been to Shanghai for several months before the epidemic, and he will go to Taiwan for three months early next year. He switched from a history major to a mathematics major in college, and now works as a programmer for a start-up company in Silicon Valley. The company does not have a physical office, so he works remotely.

On Tuesday, I met a Chiayi girl from Taiwan who moved to the United States when she was 10 years old. She grew up in Orange, Southern California, very close to where I used to live. She studied neuroscience at the University of Berkeley in the Bay Area. She originally wanted to study medicine, but it didn't take long before she switched to a major in biological data analysis and went to graduate school. Now she is doing data analysis for a large insurance company in Seattle, but she doesn't like her job, she just wants to make money. Their company has allowed remote work in recent years, but they must be in the United States. This time, she took two weeks off for pure tourism. I told her that I have recently encountered many digital nomads who secretly do not tell the company that they do not work in the United States, and it is fine at all. She said that she would also slowly try to work online while traveling. She is about my age and likes to travel alone. She is also not sure where she wants to be and what kind of work she wants to do in the future. She may go back to Taiwan, the United States, or go to other countries. We went to an art gallery, because she only had three days here, I recommended her and accompanied her to visit several areas I like very much.

A cooking class friend I met last week invited me to attend his cooking class this Wednesday. The food to be made is the ready-made ones that have been eaten last week. Before I went, my friend told me to pretend not to know him, because after all, everyone else paid. Besides me, there were three other people. One is a Canadian university professor who studies aboriginal people in Canada and is also an organic farmer. He brought his wife and two children aged one and three to live in Mexico for a few months. He also speaks Chinese, having lived in Taiwan for many years. The other two women are from San Diego. They were classmates when they were PhD students, and they are both university teachers now. The older one was a former investigative research reporter for a newspaper investigating the drug problem in Tijuana, Mexico. We first went to the local market to buy ingredients together, and then went to a friend's kitchen to have a cooking class together. We made several different salsa sauces with different peppers (dried, fresh, and charred directly over the fire) and different tomatoes (red and green). Then take the cooked corn to a small shop that specializes in grinding food a few blocks away to grind corn. Different machines here are dedicated to grinding different foods: corn, coffee beans, cocoa beans, etc. When I came back, I pressed corn tortillas with ground cornmeal, added cheese, zucchini flowers, etc., and added different salsa sauces to make quesadilla.

Thanksgiving is a relatively free week at work. Taking advantage of the absence of online classes on Thursday and Friday, I decided to take a bus at 10 o'clock on Wednesday night to go to Puerto Escondido, the most famous beach in Oaxaca. This was the worst overnight ride I've ever had. It's a minibus with very little seat space, and it wobbles left and right on the winding road from Oaxaca to the beach. The most unbearable thing was that the driver turned the air conditioner to a super low level, and the whole journey was like an ice cellar. Fortunately, he was wearing a long sleeve, but it was still very cold. And the driver also played loud music all the way to refresh himself, which is really convincing.

After driving for less than seven hours, I basically didn't sleep. It was only five o'clock in the morning when we arrived in Puerto Escondido, and it was still dark. When I walked to the hotel, the door hadn’t opened yet. I sat on the big rock at the door for half an hour, and the door of a house next to me opened. I asked the little guy inside what time was there at the front desk of the hotel, and he said it was nine o’clock. . I borrowed his house to use the toilet and asked him if there was anything to do around here. He said that he was about to take a taxi to a restaurant in the city center for coffee, and that he could take me with him if I went to the city center. Anyway, I had nothing to do, so I went to drink coffee with him. Talking to him, I found out that he is from San Juan Chamula, a small town where chickens are sacrificed in the church I visited before. He moved here when he was in his early teens, and then a year later, his parents returned to his hometown, and he was alone. Live here. He now makes and sells special handicrafts from their hometown. After drinking coffee, he took me to the two small beaches next to him.

The little Brazilian brother who was playing with me in Oaxaca also came here a few days ago. When I passed by his youth hostel to go online, I saw a girl who needed help at the front desk. She didn’t speak Spanish very clearly. I helped her communicate. . I learned that she left her bag on the beach when she was swimming at the beach last night, and there were money, mobile phones, cards and other things in it. It was stolen and all was lost. She needed the hotel's mailing address so the bank in the US could resend her the debit card. She also speaks Chinese, but was born and raised in the United States. She said that she would stay in Mexico for two or three weeks, but thinking that she might not be able to receive credit cards in the short term and that she would not have enough cash, I offered to withdraw money to her, and she could transfer US dollars to me online. She said she would call me if she needed anything. She added me on Facebook, and since she lost her phone, she could only text me from her laptop.

Back at the hotel, I can finally check in. The environment is not bad, and there is even a small swimming pool. Not long after, the girl I just met sent a message saying that I had to ask me to help her exchange money. We arranged to meet at an ATM, I gave her Mexican pesos, and we strolled down to Zicatela beach together. It was already super exposed to the sun after ten o'clock in the morning. After walking on the beach for a while, the sun was too bad. So I took the unique local mode of transportation: a small open truck to go to the city center for dinner. Chatting with her, I learned that she is only 23 years old, grew up in Maryland, now lives in Seattle, and also works remotely. A few years ago, she became a vegetarian because of animal and environmental reasons.

Went to the main beach in the evening, there will be a fishing competition here this weekend. There are often a lot of surfers here.

A week ago, in the small truck on the road to the petrified waterfall, an Italian girl sitting next to her mentioned a seaside town called Chacahua, which was about 100 kilometers west of Puerto Escondido, where she had stayed for a month. It was on the map at the time. On Mark. She said it was very primitive and undeveloped, and she liked it very much. I didn't plan to go, but the little Chinese-American girl I just met in Puerto Escondido told me she would be there the next day. Anyway, I thought it was enough to stay here for one day, so I decided to go the next day. I asked a few one-day groups, and said that there were not enough four people to send the group. It seems that I can only go by car. The little Chinese girl shared with me how to go by myself. It was a bit complicated and had to change transportation several times. No wonder this place is more primitive and not over-developed.

Early the next morning, I took a minibus to the small town of El Zapotalito. I got off the bus with another girl who was going to Chacahua, so we took a taxi to the pier together. I read what was said on the Internet. Yes, I have to take a convertible car and then change to a small slow boat, but I have to wait for many passengers and it is slower. Now there is no one else except us. There happened to be a boatman here who was going to pick up guests in Chacahua, so we negotiated a very good price and rented this fast boat. Chatting with this girl, I learned that she is a Colombian Cali, but now lives in the United States, and is also from the Bay Area. She works in Oakland and is a somatic therapist in a non-profit organization. I have never heard of this word. So I asked her curiously about this occupation and therapy. She said she used to help people with PTSD PTSD or depression with generic talk therapy when she was in Columbia, with little success. Later, I came into contact with somatic therapy, so I did a lot of research and decided to study in a university in San Francisco. She said that this therapy is a non-mainstream and niche therapy, but in a relatively open place like California, more and more therapists are beginning to study and apply this therapy. She gave me a general idea, but there are different branches and different treatments. It mainly helps patients heal their trauma by talking about their emotions, feelings, and physical reactions, and also uses different therapies such as sound vibration, meditation, and touching acupuncture points. It's interesting to hear about this therapy for the first time.

During the boat ride, the boatman stopped occasionally to introduce us to the birds here and some passing islands. He also passed through a large mangrove forest and saw many birds. We arrived at the destination after a 45-minute boat ride. It is very small. There are only two hundred people in the whole town, and there is only a small supermarket and a pharmacy. I heard that there is no need to book a place in advance here, you can sleep in hammocks on the beach, live in tents, cabaña simple cabins or hotels (rarely, only a few). The Colombian girl took me to a house she had asked in advance. There are many backpackers who set up tents and hammocks. If it is their own tent, they can camp for free, but the condition is to eat in their small restaurant. There are too many mosquitoes, and I haven't been able to endure hardships enough to sleep in a hammock tent. It just so happens that they have a cabin and mosquito nets. Put the bag out and eat fresh sea fish at the beach. This Colombian girl said that she would stay here for a whole week. Her vacation was purely for leisure, except for sunbathing and swimming at the beach, doing nothing every day. After lunch, I contacted the Chinese girl. She said that she and a few other people would rent a boat to see the famous glowing plankton in the sea at night. There must be five people to rent a boat. I went with her to the girl in the organization to make sure, but it didn't feel right, and it was a bit late. So I went to the pier to ask myself, and was told that there was no need to gather people, just come to the pier at 8:00 pm, and I would definitely be able to gather five people to start the boat. So the Chinese girl also planned to go to the pier at eight o'clock with me.

There are many tourists here who come here to surf, and I really admire how they surf freely on the big waves. I went down to the sea for a couple of swims, and was beaten back to shore by a few big waves. It’s not an exaggeration, even the big waves couldn’t get into the sea. It is also extremely hot here, and it is a bit unbearable to bask in the sun for ten minutes, so I sat in a small hut on the beach and stayed in the shade all afternoon. In the evening, I had dinner with the little Chinese girl. She said that she rented a surfboard before she could go swimming in the sea. She said she loved swimming in the sea and was often on the swimming team as a child. She'll be here for a few days too, but the internet here sucks, don't know how she works on it. The voltage is not too strong. If I turn on the electric fan in my cabin, the lights will be very dark and basically not on. If the mobile phone is charging, the lights will not be on. Only one electrical appliance can be used.

We went to the pier together at 8 o'clock in the evening. Sure enough, the boatman said that there were two other people, and the four people still charged the same fee. I have seen some photos of luminescent plankton on the Internet before, and the entire water area is glowing blue, which looks amazing. The boat went out for a while, although the surroundings were pitch black, but when I put my hand in the water and slid it, I could see the blue glowing small plankton, and I could see the blue light when I saw the fish jumping out of the water from a distance. It's amazing. It felt even more magical when we went down for a swim and swiped our arms. It's a pity that the light is too dim, and the mobile phone can't capture the effect at that time. There is really no air pollution and light pollution here. The starry sky is very beautiful, full of stars, and even the Milky Way can be vaguely seen.

In the early morning of the second day in Chacahua, I took a boat to the other side of the river. I heard that you can climb to the lighthouse on the hill to see the scenery, which is very beautiful. When I came back, I took my backpack and prepared to leave. Because it was too early, I guess I couldn’t find other people to take a direct boat to leave together, so I had to take the car first and then change the boat. On the way, I was stopped by a local and asked me if I wanted to go directly by boat together, because there were already two people, so I waited for them to go by boat together for a quarter of an hour. This is a pair of Dutch couples. After asking me where I was from, this little Dutch guy started to speak Chinese to me. He took Chinese classes for a semester in college, and traveled to China once with his family. He also went to a university in Ohio, USA. I took a Chinese class for one semester, and then went to Beijing for half a year on an exchange program with the school. I was going to go to Shenzhen again in 2020, but I couldn't because of the epidemic. He studied artificial intelligence in the Netherlands and worked as a software engineer for two years. But I just recently decided to do a Ph.D. and study neuroscience. His girlfriend is a graduate student in psychology and has traveled to many countries. Then they will go to San Cristóbal, the small town where I lived before, and recommend the Chinese noodle restaurant and other delicious food to them.

Back in Puerto Escondido, I happened to take a taxi with them to go to Punta Zicatela. After eating together, I said goodbye to them. I went to the beach next to it. It was full of tourists who came to sunbathe and surf. The whole atmosphere was very similar to some places in Southern California. In a seaside town, restaurants with TVs are packed with crowds watching the World Cup.

I continued on the road to the next stop, Mazunte, got on a big bus, sat for more than an hour, changed to a small convertible, and arrived at Mazunte. As soon as you step out of the car, you can feel the extremely hippie vibe of this beach town. I was thinking about staying here at night, but after half an hour of shopping, I decided to take a ride to the next place, Zipolite. It is smaller here, and after a few steps on the beach, I found that it is a nude beach. Half-naked or naked people can be seen everywhere, some are lying on the beach to bask in the sun, and some are just walking on the beach. Over the past few days, I have become more aware that I really have no feelings for the beach, and the beach is not my thing at all. I'm not interested in lying on the beach and basking in the sun, or swimming in the sea, or feeling sticky and sandy everywhere. So enough days at the beach are really enough.

I asked the locals and told me that I would go back to Oaxaca to change trains in a small town, Pochutla. The car was full of locals returning home from get off work, and the seats were full, except for the people standing in the middle, and the passengers who were hanging outside the car while pulling the handle on the back of the convertible. I also saw several people getting into the car with machetes, probably doing farm work. The whole car was crowded with people, it was extremely hot, but it was well ventilated. People in the car will give up their seats to women and children who just got on the car. When a child just got on, the girl next to her took the initiative to sit with her all the way, looking very hard. When it is particularly crowded, the people who squeezed to the side would make a joke and pass by with a smile. Sometimes I met their eyes occasionally, and they would give me a smile. Thinking about how hard it is for these local people to go back and forth to work and earn money every day, it is not easy, which makes me cherish my living conditions even more. Although the car was not comfortable at all, I kind of enjoyed the experience at the time.

When I got into this small convertible from Zipolite, I wasn't sure if I would go back to Oaxaca tonight, or stay in the small town where I changed cars for a night and get a good sleep before returning tomorrow morning. When we arrived in Pochutla, it was around five o'clock in the afternoon. I felt that there was nothing special here, and it was not worth staying for one night. But I didn’t want to take a six-hour car ride to Oaxaca in the middle of the night, so I saw on the map that Mark had recommended Huatulco, which was recommended by many people. It's not dark to go there by car, you can stay there for one night. After getting in the car, I asked the uncle next to me how long it would take, and he said an hour. It was strange that the car didn't take the road that looked closer on the map, but I didn't care about it at the time. I thought that the mountain road was not easy to walk, and I took a slightly more detoured road that was easy to drive. But after an hour, I wondered why I hadn’t arrived yet. I opened the map and saw that I had already passed the place I marked. I asked the uncle next to me. He said that I marked the small town in Huatulco Mountain, but this bus was going to tourists. There are many Huatulco seaside towns, and the name Huatulco is found in many places here. Oh, it turned out that I marked the wrong place. In short, go to the right Huatulco.

After arriving at the station, the uncle got off the bus with me, pointed me to the station where I would take the bus to Oaxaca tomorrow, and told me where there was a hotel to stay in. This time, I rarely searched for a hotel online in advance, and walked a few streets to find a hotel to live in, because it was the weekend, and several of them were already full. Finally found one, only a more expensive double room left, but then the girl at the front desk agreed to charge me the price of a single room. After sitting in the car all day, I was sweating all over, and finally I was able to take a shower. Fortunately, there is an air conditioner here, and it is still 30 degrees outside at night. Went with a local on a couchsurfing app for a good seafood meal. He is from Tijuana, but he moved to Los Angeles with his family when he was very young. He has lived in Los Angeles for 15 years, and basically drives back to Tijuana with his family every week for the weekend. He has a background similar to mine in education. He majored in linguistics. He used to teach Spanish and English in college, as well as art. In the past two or three years, I have been engaged in language-related work on the Internet, and now I am engaged in multilingual editing, typesetting and proofreading, and I have a basic understanding of many languages. He also recommended that I go to a lighthouse by the sea tomorrow to see the scenery.

Went to the lighthouse the next morning, the cliffs by the sea are beautiful. Going around behind the lighthouse, I saw a group of people wearing uniforms marked "National Park", all looking into the sea with binoculars. A guy told me he could see whales and dolphins, then handed me his binoculars to show me, and I did see a few. He said that they work for the national park, and they will visit whales and dolphins every weekend, take photos and videos, and use them for publication to arouse everyone's awareness of animal environmental protection. I then went to the two small beaches next to it, and it was enough to stay for a few minutes. I realized that if I was hiking on a mountain by the sea, I could still see the sea from a high place, and I would still enjoy it, anyway, there must be mountains.

It was very interesting to talk to me from an uncle who sells sea dumplings by the sea. Uncle: "Are you Korean?" Me: "No, I'm Chinese." Uncle: "Oh, so you speak Japanese?" Many of them really can't distinguish between several countries in Asia.

In the past few days at the beach, seafood is a must. These days I ate fish, shrimp, octopus. At noon, I took the car back to Oaxaca. I listened to my friend’s suggestion and changed the seat to the front, because most of the roads are mountain roads, and it is easy to get motion sickness when sitting in the back. The girl next to me took motion sickness medicine as soon as she got in the car, and she slept all the way in the car except for two stops to rest. At three o'clock in the afternoon, we stopped at a small roadside restaurant in the mountains to have lunch. Not long after we got in the car and drove out, an uncle behind us got motion sickness and asked the driver to stop. He had to get out of the car and vomit. Anyway, the daytime ride is much better than the overnight ride when you come.

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