North America,  Mexico,  Travel

Los Cabos

December 22, 2021 /

Last month, it was expensive to fly anywhere during the Christmas holiday, except Baja California Sur, Mexico. This is the fourth time I have come to Mexico, but this is the first time I have come to Cabos. There are not many tourists, most of them are Americans. It feels like Santiago in Mexico. It is completely different from the previous Mexico City and Guadalajara. Nothing. Street stalls. Tourists who come here basically come to the beach to bask in the sun for leisure and vacation.

There are two main cities in Los Cabos: San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. In the past two days in San José del Cabo, the city is very small, so I finished shopping after just a stroll, mainly eating. In the city center, I saw the portrait seat of Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Rivera. From a distance, the hairstyle and forehead look like Grandpa Mao.

I heard many people say that Cabo San Lucas is similar to Cancún, especially tourists are commercialized. I usually don't like to stay in very touristy places, but I found a very interesting sofa owner here. He is one of the few natives here in Cabos. He studied international relations at university. After graduation, he applied for a scholarship from the Confucius Institute to go to Northeastern University in Shenyang to study Chinese for a year and passed HSK4. During this period, his father was recommended by a Chinese organization in Mexico and invited to Nanchang, China, to represent Mexico to participate in an international food festival, cooking Mexican taco and so on. He had opened a restaurant in Mérida for ten years before, and it was still a Chinese restaurant. It was only later that I learned that the grandfather of the owner of the sofa was from Cantonese and was a well-known local Chinese chef during his lifetime. His mother also has a very Chinese name, Mei.

Their family opened a small street shop in Cabo San Lucas, selling some sweets, cold drinks, fruit cups and so on. Recently, Christmas and New Year are approaching, and they also sell some fireworks by the way. Business is good so they are looking to open a store in San José del Cabo as well. So he and his dad picked me up on the way to their home in Cabo San Lucas yesterday afternoon after finishing work at the second store. Along the way, there are coastal hotels, and his father said a few words to me in Chinese on the way. Although his father is a chef, his mother still cooks at home. When I arrived at his community, there are security guards, the house is very new, and there are Christmas decorations, which is very similar to many American residential areas. They say that the security here is very good, and the door is never locked. When he arrived at his house, his mother had already prepared the meals, but she was busy in the store again. So we heated up the rice and Mexican tortillas and started eating. They also have a large pan for hot tortillas. His mother made mole and hen soup, it was delicious.

After dinner, he went to help out in his shop again. It was busy selling fireworks during the holidays. Last year, business was particularly bad because of the epidemic. Anyway, I had nothing to do, so I went to the store with him to look around the store. Along the way, I passed a large area where locals live, which is completely different from the tourist area near the coast. The sofa owner said that most of the locals who live here work in the hotel tourism industry by the sea. Most of the population in Cabos is non-native, and many are immigrants from the Mexican states of Guerrero and Sinaloa, one of which is particularly poor and the other has a lot of gang fighting and is more dangerous. After moving here, because it is next to the United States, I make a lot more money from tourism than other places in Mexico. When I went to the shop with him, quite a few people passed by to buy fireworks. Fireworks are quite expensive, and he told me that the profit is huge, because his father bought them cheaply from his hometown where he specialized in producing fireworks. He said that many people make a lot of money, but they don't know how to spend it, so they buy fireworks and other things that he thinks are expensive and not worth so much money. He also said that it is very cheap to drive a car bought in the United States only here in Baja California, because there is no import tax, so the traffic jam here is also severe.

After the sofa owner went to China, he traveled to many surrounding countries, such as Southeast Asia, Japan, Russia, India, and Israel. He has been hitchhiking and backpacking in South America throughout this year. He said he worked in a store and saved some money for travel, and plans to apply for a working travel visa to Canada next year. When I came back, I met his younger brother and older sister. Both of them majored in international business. The younger brother is now in his senior year. He once went to Brazil for exchange and also went to China with his father. My sister is doing wedding planning in the hotel, and the clients are all Americans who come to hold weddings. Many weddings were postponed due to the epidemic last year, so there will be more this year and next year.

On the third day, I took the bus to Chileno beach early in the morning. There were no people there, but there were many tourists when I left there after ten o'clock. Returning to the city from Chileno Beach, I planned to climb Cerro de la Cruz, but I couldn’t find it on Google Maps. I asked a few passers-by to point me to various roads. Finally, I asked a sister who got out of her car and was about to enter the house. She said that the mountain I was going to was quite far away, and it would take a long time to walk to the entrance. So she readily asked me to get in her car and take me there directly. I waited for her for two minutes, she put the things in the car home, and then drove me there with her four or five-year-old daughter. She said that she was a room maid in a seaside hotel, and it happened that she had no shift today. She drove and changed her mind and said to take me to another nearby mountain, Cerro de la Zeta (this happened to be the mountain with a better view that my sofa owner recommended me to go to). But on the way, she found that she didn't really know where the entrance of the mountain was, so she stopped two or three times along the way and asked other passers-by before finally finding it. There used to be locals who would give me a ride, but it was usually on the way. She is totally out of the way of pure helpfulness, special thanks to her. Otherwise, it would take almost an hour for me to walk to the entrance by myself. The mountain is not high, but the view of the seaside is beautiful when you reach the top.

After going down the mountain, walk to the seaside port, which is the southernmost starting point of the Pacific Highway 1 in California, USA (zero kilometers 0km). Take a boat to see the famous Arco rocks and beaches. Fortunately, a local friend told me the price of the boat ride before, and I was not slaughtered. Generally, they charge high prices for foreign tourists. At night, when I was returning from the city center to the owner of the sofa and waiting for the bus, I drove past a Christmas-dressed convoy, spreading candy bags to passers-by as I drove slowly. The people in the car wanted to throw me a bag, but it was snatched by one of us, and the locals waiting around booed, yelling for them to throw me another bag, but they yelled The one who was the loudest jumped up and snatched it away again, but he was joking, and immediately threw the bag of sugar back to me.

I got on the bus and drove for two minutes, but was scraped by a Christmas car next to me. The two cars stopped in the middle of the narrow road, and did not move to the side of the road to let the cars behind pass by. They took pictures there and called the police, and many passengers who couldn't wait got off the bus directly. After waiting for more than 20 minutes, no police came at all. The bus driver finally reconciled with them and continued to drive. But the two cars drove to a garage to assess the damage and waited for ten minutes. The little girl sitting next to me asked me where to get off, so I could tell the driver, because the driver had to send the remaining passengers in the bus to the station, and then go straight back to the bus company to get a bus. After getting out of the car, he reversed the car and returned to the sofa owner's house.

Two days ago, a donkey friend on the couch recommended me to go here for a guided climbing route at 8:00 in the morning. This is a climbing route on a private territory belonging to a local dog training camp, so you must gather and start on time, and the gate will be closed at 8:15. The mountain is quite steep to the back, and there are many big rocks that go straight up and down, so you have to use both hands and feet.

I met some interesting climbing teammates during the mountaineering. There is an Ecuadorian and Israeli couple who have lived in New York for 30 years and traveled with their son and daughter. Talking about Ecuador, she said that I have been to more places in their country than she has. When I climbed to the top, I heard someone speaking Chinese. It was a Hebei couple who lived in the United States for 20 or 30 years and now live in Arizona. They also lived in Chicago for many years before. They drove all the way from Arizona, and stopped several times on the road to play while driving. Asked about my future itinerary, exchanged contact information, very enthusiastic, said that if I meet somewhere, I can give me a ride to take me all the way. In addition to these two middle-aged and elderly couples, I also met a young Filipino brother who is also from the Bay Area and works at Stanford Hospital. He is carrying a large backpack full of professional photography equipment. He carried his camera equipment in the morning and planned to take pictures of the sunrise on the beach by himself, but found that those loves were all beaches in luxury hotels or private territories, and he couldn't get in. It happened that many people lined up waiting for the leader to take them in to climb the mountain. We chatted while climbing, and we got along very well. He also resigned in 2018 and traveled alone for a year and a half. He just came back before the epidemic last year. He has been to all the places I have been to. We shared many experiences and stories from our travels. Climb down the mountain and go to the place I found for lunch together. He is also a food lover. He talked about all kinds of strange food that he had never eaten when he went to China for a month. He drove here alone from the Bay Area this time, it’s so far away. We will meet again in another small city in the next few days.

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