亚洲,  旅行,  柬埔寨

柬埔寨

11 月 27, 2018 /

一大早打通美国银行客服终于能取现金了，身上有点儿钱踏实多了。到了柬埔寨暹粒青旅，在大厅前台询问吴哥窟的票价行程，在这儿遇到了个马来西亚的姑娘和一个英国小哥。马来西亚姑娘在新加坡工作，由于工作压力很大，决定辞职旅游，去了越南一个月，在柬埔寨待了几个礼拜了，都是坐车旅行，她喜欢在一个地方待很久。英国小哥是个在伦敦工作的建筑师。我们仨一拍即合，俩小时之内高效地计划好了后两天的吴哥窟拼车行程，在前台订了票。

下午我报了个团，去了空邦鲁浮村 Kompong Phluk floating village，这里的房子全都是建在水上的吊脚楼，每家都有船作为交通工具，无法想象生活在这里有多不方便，每次在旅行中体验到当地人贫穷的生活状态之后，我都会格外珍惜我现状的生活。之后又坐当地村民划的小船穿梭在丛林中，很原始的感觉。划船的都是处于各个年龄的女性，还看到了一位牙都没了的老奶奶在划船。天色渐黑，我们又去洞里萨湖Tonle Sap Lake看日落。等到了日落的时候，一哥们儿太陶醉了，直接把衣服裤子一脱，从船上纵身跳入湖中。

晚上回来跟马来西亚姑娘和英国小哥一块儿去夜市吃晚饭，吃了柬埔寨高棉特色菜Lok Lak，这是柬埔寨的一道家常料理，其实就是酱汁炒牛肉饭。

清早坐突突车一路颠簸到外圈的女王宫Benteay Srei Temple，特别清净，只要人少哪儿都美。女王宫还是挺小的，慢悠悠逛完用不了多长时间，因为时间富裕突突车司机给我们加了新行程，去了大圈的比粒寺Pre Rup。吴哥窟小圈有好几个寺庙：巴戎寺（Bayon）、茶胶寺（Ta Keo）、塔布笼寺（Ta Prohm）、斑黛克蒂寺（Banteay Kdei）、托玛侬神庙、周萨神庙、巴肯山（Phnom Bakheng）。最爱塔布隆寺Ta Prohm，这里整个寺庙与周围的树林融为一体，很多树根都暴露在外面，这儿也是《古墓丽影》的拍摄地之一。巴戎寺Bayon到处有断壁残垣的感觉，这有有54座、每座有四个面的宝塔，一共216面不同的高棉的微笑。巴戎寺也不错，但是由于充斥着国内的中老年旅行团，经历大打折扣，排队照相都挤在一起，其他游人过都过不去了，当地导游还得特别嘱咐他们排队照相，别堵路。我们把最经典的小吴哥窟留在最后一站，到的时候开始下小雨，别人都往外跑，我们往里进，离关门时间很近了，正好又赶上了个清净。两天看了太多的庙宇，虽然很美，但看多了有点儿审美疲劳了。

今天比较休闲，在暹粒市里漫无目的地溜达，误入了当地人的老市场Old Market，终于吃到了跟泰国有一拼的甜品：椰子糕、椰奶甜点。还尝了一种奇异的水果：像豆角，但有点儿苦。这几天对柬埔寨的食物简直太失望了，每天到饭点儿一点儿吃的欲望都没有。所有地方的菜单都差不多，感觉本地没什么特色。似乎想融合泰国越南的米饭和面条，也没融好，不会用香料，也不入味儿。水果也没泰国新鲜多样。

暹粒的中国中老年团还挺不少的，昨天逛吴哥窟一天下来，一起拼突突车的英国小哥已经可以大老远准确无误地辨识出中国中老年团了。今天去了皇家花园，最大的收获是参观了吴哥国家博物馆。其实我对博物馆一直兴趣都不大，但这是我第一次自愿地、踏踏实实地、未走马观花地、甚至还租了语音讲解器在一个博物馆里逛了三四个小时。大致了解了一下吴哥的历史、印度教佛教里的各种神灵、柬埔寨不同时期的建筑雕刻风格、高棉语言服饰等知识。晚上去了吴哥夜市，吃了素面汤short noodle soup、韭菜盒子和鲜榨释迦果汁。之后去了酒吧街Pub Street，吵得要死。还是回到青旅去顶楼阳台上看景吧，遇到了个成都姑娘，来了东南亚好多次了，特别能聊，还跟我讲了一堆算命信仰通灵的故事。

在暹粒的最后一天闲不住地去了荔枝山Phnom Kulen，本来想进大瀑布游泳的，结果一天都在下小雨，气温有点低水太凉了就没下去。去机场前又去老市场吃了点儿东西：椰丝汤圆、花生卷饼、椰子糕和甜点。晚上到了机场登机口，看见一姑娘感觉特别眼熟，但就是想不起来哪儿见过了，然后她男朋友突然出现了，我就想起来了。这时她也抬头看见我也认出我来了。我在泰国普吉机场去普吉镇的大巴上坐他们前面，当时还简短地聊了聊，他们是智利人。现在竟然是坐同一航班从柬埔寨去越南。他们说昨天晚上在暹粒吃饭的时候还看见我在门口路过了呢。后来接着聊发现订的越南河内的青旅特别近，一会儿到了可以从机场一块儿打车过去了。

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