波哥大
离去年开始背包独自旅行整一年了,再次开启新的旅程,第一次去南美。萨尔瓦多转机去哥伦比亚。旧金山起飞同航班坐旁边的巴西小美女住在Santa Cruz,到了萨尔瓦多也是一起转机去哥伦比亚。闲聊了一路,后来聊到南加州,她老公是那儿出生长大的,竟然高中上的是我之前教的那个高中,怎么我们那学校校友遍天下啊!一到萨尔瓦多她给她老公发短信,还发现她老公的叔叔还是我前同事。我们仨简直震惊了,世界真的太小了!
哥伦比亚第一站是首都波哥大,沙发主是本地人,但10岁就全家移居纽约了,之后又在迈阿密、荷兰、西班牙居住,去年才搬回来。沙发主住的地方附近都是当地居民区,跟中国二三线城市特别像,大晚上街上都是摆摊儿的,还有夜市,特有生活气息。早饭沙发主做了哥伦比亚特色的热巧克力加奶酪,听起来超级诡异,但用面包蘸着吃还挺好吃的。特别喜欢他的咖啡杯,上面写着“No haga planes, deja que la vida te sorprenda.”,大概意思是“没必要做计划,让生活给你带来惊喜。”这简直就是我现在旅行的信条!
自从经历了去年的旅行方式,这次除了买了往返机票基本没提前做任何攻略,跟着沙发主逛了一整天。以前去哪儿旅行都能看见各种亚洲旅游团,但今天一整天就没见着任何其他亚洲人。我在这儿要是能住上几个月西语得多溜儿啊!
决定来哥伦比亚除了中国公民不需要签证之外,另一个重要原因就是看《Narcos毒枭》很上瘾,下图中就是剧中的一个场景Plaza Bolívar玻利瓦尔广场。市中心到处可见超有艺术气息的色彩斑斓的壁画,很多街道还都保持着西班牙殖民时期的原有建筑。
上午去了Cerro de Monserrate,山顶上有个天主教堂,从这儿能俯瞰整个城市。听说我来之前的一两个礼拜超级冷还天天下雨,今天是第一天放晴还没雨,我真是小太阳,去哪儿哪儿就放晴,哈哈!最后沙发主带我去了个当地有名的饭馆儿,走了一天消耗的热量都给找补回来了。
沙发主的两只狗超可爱,没事儿就往我身上蹭。跟他大早出去遛狗,顺便买了哥伦比亚的empanada跟tamal,跟墨西哥的不一样,里面原料有米饭跟蛋黄儿。Tamal的形状也不一样,不是长条儿的,而是一大坨状的,我顺便跟他推广了下中国的粽子。
旅行中最开心的事儿就是碰到也是吃货崇尚美食的沙发主。这哥们儿在西班牙的厨师学校学过两年,遛狗回来做了Caldo de costilla 哥伦比亚牛肉汤(昨晚就开始准备了),竟是这儿常吃的早饭之一,超级好喝。
感觉波哥大跟中国和东南亚的一些城市特别像:交通挺堵的,车距倍儿近,有很多载人的摩托车在机动车之间穿梭。波哥大没有地铁系统,但有类似国内特快公交车的TransMilenio,有专门的快车道,但跟北京地铁有一拼了,人挤人。市中心比较大的步行街有很多摆桌子下国际象棋的老百姓,马上联想到这要是北京王府井步行街上有摆桌子下象棋的会是个什么景象 。大街小巷上到处都有卖鲜榨的果汁的小摊儿。还有个让我比较惊诧的是:小区便民商店药店不管买啥买多少钱都打个电话就免费送货上门。
中午去了个当地农贸市场 Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao,见了各种从来没见过的水果蔬菜:巨型牛油果、跟蛆一样的白萝卜、里面看起来像虫卵但吃起来超甜的水果、黄色的小火龙果、巨型长豆等无法形容的热带蔬果。开眼界了我!
下午又去了周日免费入馆的黄金博物馆和Botelo波特罗艺术博物馆。我对黄金博物馆完全没兴趣,逛了半小时就出来了。但另一个波特罗艺术馆的画儿太有喜感了,看着这种浅显易懂的艺术品就开心。Fernando Botelo是哥伦比亚最有名的具象艺术大师,被称作世界上最会画圆滚滚的胖子的艺术家。笔下所有的人物都五官聚在一坨、动作呆板、表情木讷。除了人物,他画的最多的就是各种水果了。
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